I took a 1994 for a test drive today and since it was my first diesel test drive I have a few questions. I would appreciate any and all information that could be provided. It is a regular cab long bed with a 5 speed and of course 4wd. It has 250k miles on it.

I do not know how long it had been since it was started, but at 40-45 degrees it smoked blue and seemed to be missing for a few minutes. After it warmed up it seemed to stop smoking and run smooth. He told me to give it a little fuel to start it. Is this normal? I did not see a "wait to start" light, should it have one?

I have a F150 with the 5 speed so I am comparing the way the clutch pedal feels to it. It seemed to be much harder to depress that the F150 is. I realize that it is probably a much heavier clutch, but I wanted to make sure it should be stiffer and not have some sort of problem. It did not seem to slip at all, as a matter of fact driving at 65 mph if I pushed the throttle down rather quickly it would spin the tires and loose traction in 5th gear.

The truck would max out at about 3100 or 3200 rpms. Is this normal? Seems to me either the dash tach is off or the engine has some sort of modifications? He showed me receipts totaling over $5000 for repairs including something about "3000 rpm governor springs". I assume maybe that is why it turned as fast as it did?

He also has a 1997 with the same set up, but it is currently getting some work done on it. I am not sure which one I should look more serious at as of yet and wondered if anyone here would recomend one over the other and why.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

 

Yeah, he has governor springs in it or the engine wouldn't fuel all the way to 3000 rpms. I've never driven an F150 manual but I'd say the clutch is probably harder to depress on these trucks. My last Cummins was a manual. There is a wait to start light, it's below the A/C and heater ***** to the right of the steering wheel. Without it you would probably need to push the pedal a little to get it started in those temps. Otherwise, you shouldn't have to push the pedal if everything is within spec (idle speed, throttle cable, starter, etc); although some people still do just to start it easier. I'm not too sure about the blue smoke and missing. If the grid heaters weren't working, I can see how it would do that but maybe someone else can chime in with more cold weather experience.

Finally, not a good idea to floor it in 5th gear on those manual trannies. The engine has so much torque it can loosen the nut that holds 5th gear on. They are notorious for unscrewing and falling out, leaving you with no 5th gear. From what I hear, it won't damage the tranny but you just have to open it up and fix it.

 

I wonder if the heater(s) are not working, does the light will light up? Maybe I need to look again. I know I looked where it would be in an 2000 F550, because thats what we have for a mini pumper. I know where that one is.

I did not get much past 2/3 throttle before the tires came loose, the roads were wet and I did not want to put a truck in a ditch that I was test driving LOL.

Anyone care to chime in? I sure would appreciate it.

Jim

 

Seems like too many issues off the get go. For the first time buyer into the diesel world. Start off with a non turned up grampa driven truck. Sometimes it is cheaper to find the truck which is alittle better shape at a higher price.

 

Hmmmm, not being smart or anything, just trying to learn is all. Just how many issues are we talking about here. I know the smoking may be an easy fix or it may mean something horrible. But after it warmed up it seemed to run circles around a F550 with a 7.3, and stoped smoking. So I am leaning towards engine heater(s), but like I said I am learning so I cannot be even the least bit sure.

I do know a good bit about engines and am not afraid to get dirty. Unless someone can enlighten me a little about what I have said so far I cannot see that many issues. Please let me know if I am wrong.

Jim

 

Sounds like he's done more power mods than just the GSK. Ask him which fuel plate he's running. You can find a chart that correlates increased power to plate number on TST's website:

www.tstproducts.com

The missing in cold weather could be timing related if he has advanced the timing. Also ask him what the timing is set at. Usually people bump the stock timing up to 15-16 degrees for better fuel economy and power on a mildly modified motor. Anything more and you risk blowing the headgasket especially combined with higher boost levels and rpms; unless you have studs and/or headwork. Ask if he's done the KDP (killer dowel pin). Must be the first thing done on the 12v engine.

Did he ever have a boost gauge? EGT guage? What was the boost pressure? I would be wary of buying a truck that has more power than stock that does NOT have a boost or EGT (pyrometer) gauge. When you start fueling more than stock, you can melt a piston if exhaust gas temps go too high. 1200 degrees is the max you can hold it at (pre-turbo). Find out exactly what has been done to the truck. Has he done any kind of headwork or had to replace a headgasket? If so, why? Ask if he's ever replaced the lift pump or overflow valve. Has he ever checked his fuel pressure?

Since the truck is a 4x4, you can run into a lot of front end problems. Does the steering feel wobbly or have play in it (if it does, don't be immediately alarmed)? Do you get "death wobble" at any speeds? A 1994 may need new front-end parts depending on how the truck was treated. A set of ball joints alone can set you back a grand unless you do it yourself, which is a PITA if you don't have the right tools. The trackbar is a common wear piece on these trucks. They sell heavy duty ones for $300-500 or you can do a Moog replacement for cheaper. I did a Luke's link for about $85 and it works well. Alignment is something most shops won't know how to set correctly on these trucks. If it needs one, come back and search here. It's nothing fancy, just the specs are different than what normally shows up in spec manuals. Aside from the engine, everything else is like any other truck except a lot more expensive because it's a diesel. Tires, body, u-joints, clutch, etc.

This is a great source to learn more about these trucks:

www.dodgeram.org

 

I am afraid some answers I cannot answer. There were no aftermarket guages in the truck though. It is on a used car lot, so most of the other questions you ask I will not be able to answer.

I have decided against buying this truck though. No gauges was one thing, because I too thought one should be monitoring things when one modifies an engine. But the big kicker for me is the truck set way too high, like it had been lifted. The lot owner said it has not been but being 6' 2" i had to climb into it. I also saw the front coils had a Skyjacker label on them. Although some of these answers may answer questions in the future.

I am still looking and will buy one so I will be asking more questions and of course doing more reading. I have read a lot on here already.

Jim

 

Probably had the Skyjacker D2S coils. They basically level the front by adding 2" of lift. In stock form, these 4x4 trucks are pretty tall. Actually, even with my stock size wheels I've noticed I sit at about the same height as a lifted 1/2 ton with bigger wheels. Good luck on finding a truck. Look in the classifieds here. Lots of good trucks for sale. Personally, I would opt for a 1996-1998 12v because they came with a 180 hp injection pump on autos, 215 hp for manuals. 1997 came with hydroboost brakes and 1998 came with a whole new interior and suicide doors for the rear. Pre-1996 had the 160 hp pump. How much were they asking for the 1994? If it's a good deal, it may be worth it.

 

One of the receipts had a listing for "levelers" so maybe that is what is has?

Um he said about $6000 or so. The paint is terrible and the tailgate is another color. Those really do not matter to me, but they do to the wife, and if she ain't happy, no one is happy. LOL Although I could repaint I guess.

Transmission really does not matter too much to me as far as standard or automatic. From what I read on here the autos were prone to have problems with engine mods, and the sticks had problems with 5th gear. <shrugging shoulders> 6 of one and a half dozen of another I guess.

Jim

 

5th gear is a lot cheaper fix than repairing an automatic. $6000 for a 94 needing paint seems expensive to me.

 

My advise is to look for something which is nearly perfect and no mods. If mods are present use your gut feeling and decide if the owner knows his stuff and the quality of the installs. Slopy work on installs usually means trouble.

Lots of deals out there good luck and let us know.

 

Drove the 97 and liked it. It has 183k on it. 5 speed, 4WD, regular cab, long bed. So far I have found out it has a 4.10 limited slip. Must have a 3K GSK cause it turns that fast. Runs VERY good, but has manners (muffler). Only smokes until the turbo catches up. I have to find the horn(s), I can hear the relay clicking so I assume it has a problem between it and the horns themselves. Looks like it has a bigger than stock exhaust. What size is standard anyway? Going to give it a more indepth once-over as soon as I can.
Anyone think of things I should look for? What gauges should be first? I know about the KDP, is there any way to know if it has been done? Going to be a daily driver and a camper puller as of right now.

Many thanks
Jim

 

4:10'S are a bit much for any type of highway driving but great for pulling. The 97 5 speed is an awesome truck though...its a very powerful setup

 

Been busy fixing the minor stuff, radio, license plate lights, changed oil, ordered a pyro and boost gauge, and adjusted the brakes up. Love the truck so far. I have found one thing I do not like though. The alternator was replaced just before I got it. Whoever replaced it did not change pulleys. It has a seven groove pulley on the alternator and a eight groove belt. Of course the other pulleys are eight groove. Can you guess what happened to the other groove on the belt? LOL

Question is where do I get the correct pulley? Are different brand alternator shafts all the same size? I want to fix this very soon.

Thanks
Jim

 

The Denso alts are the same size shaft, but I have seen several different diameter pullies, you need to worry more about the diameter IMHO.

BTW, for anyone reading this, that same Denso Alt was used in everything from a 1992 Dakota through engines like the 1998 Jeep GC, virtually any Chryco V8.

Not all were 136 Amp, but I had to make do for a while with the smaller unit, it bolted right up and got me out of a pinch.

I take it you found the horns? If not, they are behind the front bumper, drivers side.