new diesel owner
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From: dryden, mi
new diesel owner
Recently bought a 97 2500 c/c 4x4 ctd auto w/100,000 miles. It has a banks 4" exhaust and a volunte air box, gets 20-21 mpg if I keep it under 70. Once you get to 50 mph there is no passing gear, can this be adjusted? Any other suggestions as far as maintenance or modifications to make this perform better would be appreciated. Thanks, Gene
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Houston, TX
Dryden? 
Well to up the performance the possibilites are almost limitless, but first I'd take care of the KDP just to be safe. A lot of people like the 3k governer spring kit, you can make your fuel plate a bit meaner but with an auto it won't take much to start slipping. Also upping the fuel isn't a good thing unless you have gauges to see the results of doing such. Another popular mod is to upgrade the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes to the Chevy 1 ton cylinders which have a larger bore.
Well to up the performance the possibilites are almost limitless, but first I'd take care of the KDP just to be safe. A lot of people like the 3k governer spring kit, you can make your fuel plate a bit meaner but with an auto it won't take much to start slipping. Also upping the fuel isn't a good thing unless you have gauges to see the results of doing such. Another popular mod is to upgrade the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes to the Chevy 1 ton cylinders which have a larger bore.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,411
Likes: 2
From: Laredo
Welcome!
and Welcome once again to the new and improved (still getting used to) DTR!!
What has been stated is right, you need to get ur Dowel pin Fixed, here is a link as to how it goes, its not too bad.. and ull sleep easier... PS the TST is a fix kit...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=76431
Anyways, before you start messing with fuel plates, GSK's and so on and so forth, you should GET A GOOD SET OF GAUGES first... that should be the primary mod that goes into your new ride.
Here is a little explanation that explains more about fuel plates Ok....
Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1
More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..
best of luck and enjoy the new ride...
The governers Spring kit, or GSK simply allows you to fuel harder to about 3200 RPMS, depending on your fuel plate position and governer arm adjustment...
Trans work will probably be needed before you get to play hard being as the GSK alone will slip ur trans...
Welcome to DTR once again new friend, and be sure and put ur new ride in your signature so we can better assist you....
Tx
and Welcome once again to the new and improved (still getting used to) DTR!!
What has been stated is right, you need to get ur Dowel pin Fixed, here is a link as to how it goes, its not too bad.. and ull sleep easier... PS the TST is a fix kit...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=76431
Anyways, before you start messing with fuel plates, GSK's and so on and so forth, you should GET A GOOD SET OF GAUGES first... that should be the primary mod that goes into your new ride.
Here is a little explanation that explains more about fuel plates Ok....
Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1
More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..
best of luck and enjoy the new ride...
The governers Spring kit, or GSK simply allows you to fuel harder to about 3200 RPMS, depending on your fuel plate position and governer arm adjustment...
Trans work will probably be needed before you get to play hard being as the GSK alone will slip ur trans...
Welcome to DTR once again new friend, and be sure and put ur new ride in your signature so we can better assist you....
Tx
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: Columbus OH
Best thing to do is take care of the KDP, put exhaust on it and a better air intake, maybe some guages,,,then give your wallet to your wife or gf or just hide it all together, because you WILL be broke if you go beyond that point ;-) It's happened to all of us. I bought my truck almost 3 years ago, and in that time, I've put probably the cost of a new truck into it, it's addictive, but you'll have fun:-)
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