I don't think the dealership would log a KDP job into the computer considering the fact that Cummins never wanted to admit there was trouble.

 

i'm about to do this fix, tst messed up the shipping though, so i gotta wait longer now with the truck just sitting. Kind of a bummer. I guess I need to go buy some feeler gauges, coolant, and oil before that kit gets here so i'm ready.

 

you really don't need the feeler gauges. Although they are nice to have, you can just use a match book.

 

Shouldn't need coolant or oil to do the KDP, either.

 

I'm planning on taking the washer fluid resovoir out, taking out the fan and shroud, removing the belt, removing the damper, removing the inspection thing since I have a auto, removing the speed sensor out of the way, then the cover, then do the KDP stuff inside, and i thought it's good to get some oil to lube the gears before u close it up?

 

You don't need to lube the gears as they get plenty of oil by design. I would recommend removing the radiator to give you extra access, and to prevent damaging it while wrenching. It's only two more bolts and it lifts right out. Plus, you can clean out the fins and inside with a garden hose. I couldn't believe the amount of dirt that was in my radiator fins.

Also, the engine barring tool is a good investment for rotating the engine to access the cover bolts behind the camshaft gear. These bolts were not very tight on my engine, so it paid to clean them up and loctite them.

 

can't you just turn the engine over with a braker bar? And have a friend hold it while while you get the bolts out?

 

You can't turn the engine with the alternator since the serpentine belt will be removed. I suppose you could put the crankshaft damper back on (after you get the gearcase cover off) and have someone crawl under the truck and turn the pulley by hand while you watch the camshaft gear. I was working alone, so for me the barring tool was the best $40 that I spent during this project.

 

I think i'm gonna have my nieghbor come up with some of his tools. Might be nice having a diesel mech on hand just in case, lol.

 

An emphatic "NO!" on the dealer's KDP fix knowledge.
He has a database of all dealer work done to your vehicle since new. They can pull it up and even see when it was in to replace the screws in your ashtray etc...
The dealer will NOT tell you if the KDP was tabbed, as DC (and Cummins!)obviously turned a blind eye to the problem, deciding to deal with the issue only if they exploded under warranty!!!(basically they KNEW there was a problem but just hoped the warranties would expire before the other loose pins fell out on their nickel! )
It was obviously a serious enough problem that Cummins changed the accessory case design ~'98-'99 to positively capture the pin in a semi blind hole cast into the case!
When I bought mine used, I learned about the KDP (from the TDR site) before I picked it up and when I asked the service mgr for the printout of service work/recalls done to my '97, I pointedly asked if there had been any issues with Dowel Pins coming out of the gearcase of these 12valve engines...
blink blink... "We don't know anything about any dowel pin problem with these trucks"... blink blink
I was shocked! I said, "You mean you've never heard about any dowel pins falling out of the block into the timing gears???" He replied: "No, I don't know anything about a dowel pin problem...."
Looking back, I remember seeing some shiny, in-warranty mid/late 90's trucks in the mechanic bays with the fronts off the engine and the camshafts pulled out ... (thinking back now, it sure looked like KDP damage repair to me!)

K.

 

So how long will it take one (working by theirself) to fix everything using the tab method and the kit from TST? I just don't have the money to pay someone to do it... so it looks like I'll be doing it myself.

 

lot's of variables...

If it's your first one and you are slow, I would give yourself 6 hours.

This way you can take your time. you can spend alot of time degreasing etc. When I did mine, I changed the power steering lines because they were right there and they were cheap and looked very rusty. I also changed the top radiator hose and the belt.

you probably could then do a second one in 3 hours.

 

I purchased the TST kit too... You can do it... It's easy.
I took about 4hrs to do it by myself, but this was in the summer sun with frequent A/C breaks . Also, I opted to try working the fan out w/o disconnecting any rad hoses. To me, the fan extraction part was the most difficult and time consuming aspect w/o removing the hose & coolant. This is a spot that another pair of hands could really help out.
With the fan gone, there is LOTS of room to work.
Once I had the cover off, I was taking some pix at each step. my KDP had not moved...)
Cover up the two openings to the sump that invite Murphy to drop hardware into...
I pulled the capscrew and degreased the hole and surrounding area. New capscrew, KDP tabwasher and loctite, the KDP job was done.. I spent more time admiring the heavy geared innards of the engine as I checked tightness of other capscrews in there before the new shaft seal and cover went back on.

K.

 

The timing case bolts and the cam retainer bolts were allmost comming completely in two trucks I did...I took the one's behind the cam gear completely out and re-loctighted them put them back in .
Greg

 

So how come people don't just take the KDP out completely? I've read about people having them falling out and doing absolutely nothing... will it cause problems later on? From what I recall it is some kind of alignment pin...