12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

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Old 01-26-2015, 10:19 AM
  #31  
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Tay:

As Robert and Pat already said, the 1994-1998.5 Dodge CTD 12 VALVE TRUCKS are MECHANICALLY CONTROLLED by the P-7100 fuel pump. That Edge Unit you listed is for the later electronically controlled trucks which Pat pointed out started on the 1999-2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve trucks with the electronic VP-44 Bosch Fuel Pump. Then in 2003, Dodge had to meet even tougher emissions standards, so they went to a heavier "electronically controlled" truck with a
CP-3 Bosch fuel pump and electronically controlled fuel injectors. Our 1994-1998.5 Dodge CTD 12 VALVE trucks are strictly mechanically controlled, there is no electronics on the P-7100 fuel pump or on the injectors. So, to raise power you can change out the fuel curve torque plate, but in doing that the automatic tranny needs to be beefed up.

Tay, here is a link to "TST Products" in Columbus, Indiana that will show you what that fuel curve torque plate looks like:

TST Products, Inc. - 94-98 12 Valve Dodge Ram

You will see them near the bottom of the page.
I hope this helps you understand things better.

--------
John_P
Old 01-26-2015, 06:41 PM
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Okay, Okay, Okay, I know that the chip is useless, I get it. Also Thanks everyone so far for answering.

I don't know how to replace the fuel filter, maybe go under the truck?

I just got better so I'm gonna start reading the Service Manual

Also, the truck has less than 100k miles, not sure if that matters. I think that's pretty good, all my grandpa used it for was towing his trailer and moving wood for our fire place.
Old 01-26-2015, 07:05 PM
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TayTay welcome i am wondering though is your truck a 5 speed and do you have any pictures i would like to see it
Old 01-26-2015, 08:04 PM
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See "fuel filter/water separator". I still strongly recommend killer dowel pin repair as priority. Search "KDP".
Old 01-26-2015, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TayTay
Okay, Okay, Okay, I know that the chip is useless, I get it. Also Thanks everyone so far for answering.

I don't know how to replace the fuel filter, maybe go under the truck?

I just got better so I'm gonna start reading the Service Manual

Also, the truck has less than 100k miles, not sure if that matters. I think that's pretty good, all my grandpa used it for was towing his trailer and moving wood for our fire place.
Nah, it's junk, you only have around 900,000 more miles before it is time for a rebuild..........

Here is a video of a fuel filter change.........



Good view of first the pre-filter change then fuel filter. I don't like it that he doesn't show you how to take filter off, in the center of the top of the housing is a 15 MM ( I think ) nut that you loosen to remove the lower housing, you also unplug the WIF ( Water In Fuel ) sensor. Some folks drain the housing first, I never bother myself, it is going to be messy anyway you look at it. I bring mine out the top, others say you can't do it, but I never have an issue. One caveat, when you put it back together, there is a tab and slot to align it, make sure that you get it right, you will be able to run the nut all the way down by hand until you see threads showing if you have it right. Do NOT attempt to bring it home with your wrench, it is a guaranteed breaking of the housing if you do.

Really not hard at all, just pay attention and DON'T do like the idiot does and start it with the starter...... When you get the filter changed, use the priming button to fill your filter. If you watch the first part of the video, as he is putting the pre-filter back on, you will see the lift pump to the right and see a bellows rubber looking thing, that is your manual priming button, ( some are rotted off and only have a white plastic rod sticking out ) anyway, do yourself a favor and get a long handled instrument, I use a garden hoe and use it to push the button until you hear a hissing sound similar to forcing air thru your front teeth with your tongue, this means you are now primed and ready to start, it also allows you to inspect for leaks on both the pre-filter and fuel filter.

Assuming nothing leaks, and you hear the hissing, she should fire right off like you had never worked on her.

Also, as for the KDP, I STRONGLY recommend you get it fixed, lest you get bit like I did...... My saga.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-story-232673/
Old 01-26-2015, 08:51 PM
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Less than 100,000 miles! That's great TayTay. Sounds like you've got a wonderful truck there.
Old 01-27-2015, 08:46 AM
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It's too dark right now, 6:42 AM, but this is the closest picture I could find on the internet, it's about the same, all stock, just lower than this truck with some running boards.



If the image doesn't work, heres this url 1997 dodge ram 2500 - Google Search

I think the KDP will be my first upgrade though, right after I change the filters and oils, and it's nice how it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for a lot of these upgrades

I'm pretty sure it's a 5 speed auto.

And thanks Gorms for the pic! Helps alot!
Old 01-27-2015, 09:51 AM
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TayTay, I applaud you for sticking with this Thread and coming back on and learning here. I'm glad you will be doing your own oil and filters and maintenance. Doing the KDP is very important too. Your trans is a 47RE, basically a Chrysler TorqueFlight with an overdrive unit bolted on to the back. It's a pretty good, heavy duty trans, except for the stock torque converter which is marginal. If you get a chance, see if you can find your granddad's truck receipts--that will give you an idea of what he had done to the truck.

And when you change the oil, it will take 11 quarts. Pour most of one quart into your new filter--that is, prefill it before you install it.
Old 01-28-2015, 05:42 PM
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Yeah, I'm gonna get that KDP done when I can get my money for it.
Old 01-28-2015, 08:13 PM
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It won't cost much--somewhere on this site there is a link to how to do it. Does anyone have that link for him?
Old 01-29-2015, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert Rausch
It won't cost much--somewhere on this site there is a link to how to do it. Does anyone have that link for him?

http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf

There you go.

All you really need is some silicone, a good front seal ( Cummins preferred ), and either make, or spend the $ 2.50 for the Cummins made tab. Good time to make sure all your case bolts are tight as well. I personally would NOT use red loctite on the bolts, the blue will work just fine, and you wont snap the heads off if you ever have to take them back out.
Old 02-16-2015, 02:23 PM
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Tay Tay, how about an update on your truck? What have you found out? We are curious.
Old 02-17-2015, 08:26 PM
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Umm, Okay, I feel bad about this, but I joined this form, and I lied about my age. I'm 15, almost 16, I can drive, and my parents are most likely going to give me the truck. I'm terribly sorry, and I hope that I can still stay on the forums, and learn more. I still haven't been able to look at it much, we have wood in it, and as soon as we get it out, they will let me drive it, hopefully this weekend.
Old 02-17-2015, 11:18 PM
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I LOVE IT!! You go son!! I was driving when I was 10.
Old 02-18-2015, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TayTay
Umm, Okay, I feel bad about this, but I joined this form, and I lied about my age. I'm 15, almost 16, I can drive, and my parents are most likely going to give me the truck. I'm terribly sorry, and I hope that I can still stay on the forums, and learn more. I still haven't been able to look at it much, we have wood in it, and as soon as we get it out, they will let me drive it, hopefully this weekend.
Goody!

We gots us a young-un interested in diesels!

Tay, don't worry man, we don't care if you are 13 or 90............

All we care about is you love these things like we do.

Oh yea, started driving the farm trucks from the fields to the house at about 8 years old..... You younguns were born at the wrong time......


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