I don't know anything, and I need to know everything.
 

Is there a book on trucks for dummies? I don't understand much at all when it comes to trucks and diesel. I got my dodge ram 2500 from my Grandpa who died, and now that I have it, I wanna work on it. It's a 1997 dodge ram 2500 2wd SLT Laramie. Don't know the first thing, and I can't really find a good guide online. Thanks for reading.

LOL, online guide? You are here my friend......... Seriously, if you really want to learn, between an honest to goodness Factory Service Manual ( 35 bucks here ),
1997 DODGE RAM FACTORY SERVICE CD-Geno's Garage
and this forum, there will be precious little that you won't quickly learn. :spit:

So, spend a little cash for the FSM, and spend a few hours reading the 12 valve forum, and ask about anything you don't really understand........ We only bite on rare occasions.[whistle]

You are a fortunate young man! Tell us about what you do know about the truck. Did your grandpa do any upgrades to it? One way to tell is to go through any receipts he may have saved. That's the only way I found out my truck had had the pump turned up with a TST plate.

He hasn't done anything to it, bought it from some guy, and gave it to me when he died. I honestly don't know anything. Don't know any Acronyms, nor any abbreviations, including FSM. I Googled it and found "Church of the Flying Spaghetti Monster"

---Edit----

Nevermind, I just read what you typed right before FSM, my bad.

You are WELCOME here and no one will make fun of you...well OK maybe just a little but with a smile when we do ;)

Ask away, we all started out knowing little as well and you couldn't have found a friendlier group to help you out :)

Well, What can make a truck faster? I know ECU's, a bigger supercharger, engine swap, but thats about it.

The Cummins doesn't have a supercharger, it has a turbocharger. Forget the ECU. Forget the engine swap.

Ok, youngster, here's your first lesson. Diesel engines are different than gas engines. A gas engine runs on a specific, very narrow mixture of gasoline to air. If the gas to air ratio is either too lean or too rich the engine won't run right and suffers various problems. Thus with gas engines the only way to get a lot more power is a larger displacement engine--a Chevy 283 V8 doesn't make as much power as a Chevy 409 because of this. Capiche?

The diesel engine is different. It can run from an extremely lean mixture to an extremely rich mixture--in fact the more diesel you pump into the compression chamber, the more power it makes. Unburned diesel fuel simply blows out the exhaust stack as black smoke.

Thus there is no spark plug in a diesel engine. The compression itself creates so much heat that the fuel ignites as soon as it's squirted into the combustion chamber. This squirting is done by the INJECTION PUMP. Grandpa's '97 has a Bosch P7100 injection pump, which is the one that EVERYBODY wants. Earlier Dodge/Cummins engines and later Dodge/Cummins engines ran different pumps which are not as reliable and not as good. The P7100 can be "turned up" to pump more fuel by purchasing any of various aftermarket injection pump plates, which allow the pump to pump more fuel. Be aware tho, if grandpa's Dodge has an automatic trans, and if the trans is stock, you won't be able to turn the pump up too much or it will burn up the friction material in the torque converter, and you'll be rebuilding the trans in short order.

Remember that injection pump? Here's a number that will make you appreciate your pump: In a normal gas engine the pump for the fuel injection might be 30 psi or so. Maybe a little higher. In the Dodge/Cummins, P7100 the pump pumps anywhere from 14,500 psi. to 18,000 psi. Can you think what that means? It means you better have damm clean fuel going into that pump because you don't want any smidgeon of dirt to cause any scoring. The P7100 operates to extremely close tolerances, and any dirt will screw it up fast. So change that fuel filter often.

Also don't run the truck with a dirty air filter--the engine needs clean air. Clean air and clean fuel and your truck will run a long, long time.

Holy Molly, Thank you.

Yep, and the FIRST thing you need to do is get a decent set of gauges for your truck. Using nothing but stock parts you can easily melt down your engine. These things are seriously detuned from the factory to protect the rest of the truck.

You will need Boost Pressure and Exhaust Gas Temperature ( EGT ) at the minimum.....

Next, you need to tell us if this is a manual trans truck or an automatic. If automatic, before you go too far, you will have to decide if you put in a fully built trans and converter or just a converter and a valve body....... But with the auto, much above stock will just kill the trans.

Finally, your first mods will be cheap or free, but we really don't want to give you too much until we are sure you won't just kill the trans and let it kill your enthusiasm for a diesel......they get addictive pretty quick, and shortly thereafter fairly expensive.

What kind of budget will you have for your truck?

With good care and feeding, you have a truck that will last as long as you want to keep it. Follow the filter/oil change advice given above. It is not uncommon for these engines to reliably run 450-500 thousand miles or more. My 08 now has 261000 on it and seems to just be getting right. My last truck, a 98 which I sold when I bought the 08, is reaching for 350,000 and is still going strong. (Sold it to a friend).

My '95 has 342,000 on the Odo, and still wallops the heck out of rice-burners at stoplights.

OK, taytay, here's your first test: Go out to your truck and find the fuel filter. Report back here how you think you might remove it, and report back what you think the thing on the bottom of the fuel filter is.

The truck is has an Automatic Transmission, and my budget is around $1000-$1500? Definitely will do more in the future, but this is what I will be getting soon to work on it.

About the Air filter, I found it, and I think that thing is like the cold air intake tube?

And the Fuel filter is kinda in the front, and It needs to be unscrewed to be taken off? Sorry, I'm kinda sick, so I'm off my game :l

I think you have mistaken the oil filter for the fuel filter, but I might be mistaken. The oil filter is on the passenger side of the engine toward the front of the block. It's about 9-10 inches long and about 4 inches in diameter. The fuel filter is about the same diameter, but shorter and is not on the front of the block. Try to find the fuel filter again when you're feeling better and report back here.

Killer dowel pin (KDP) comes to mind for first repair. Otherwise how does it drive? No sense in making it run harder if it handles like turd. Lots of little quirky things with these trucks that will make driving them no fun regardless how good it runs. Good truck to learn with though!

Runs pretty good, It stalls though. Gonna take it to a shop sometime soon for it to be checked out and get a tune up.

NEGATIVE!!!!!!!

There really isn't a "tune up" per say for these, and shops that can do anything other than screw them up are rare, most don't know as much of diesels than you already do.

Save yourself a lot of grief and get the FSM coming, and ask questions here man..........

First thing, what does it idle at? If it isn't around 750-800 RPMs at idle in gear, then all you need to do is adjust the Idle RPMs, they get a bit of wear and drop lower. Kind of a pain, but all it takes is a 10 MM wrench and skinny arms. If you do not know how long it has been since the fuel filter has been changed and the pre-filter cleaned, then that is also a worthy try.

Since you are going to be ordering a FSM anyway, might as well get a fuel filter and a prefilter service kit at the same time..... ( oil filter too.... )

'97-'98 Dodge Turbo Diesel FS19598 Fuel Filter-Geno's Garage

'94-'98 Dodge Cummins Fuel Heater/Pre-Filter Service Kit-Geno's Garage

'89-'15 Dodge Cummins LF16035 StrataPore Oil Filter-Geno's Garage

So I'm gonna change the fluids, get some gauges, new filters. I'm thinking to getting new running boards. Maybe an ECU, I was told not too, but why shouldn't I get an ECU?

Please listen to they guys. Do NOT spend money until you get a handle on what this engine is. Change the filters, but go no further until you get the Shop Manual and do some reading. You can spend huge amounts of needless money. These engines were made for medium duty trucks and stuffed into our little ones. There is plenty of power available, but you MUST know what you are doing first. Do the filters, grab the book, read through the forums, then ask a bunch of questions.

Lot's of high end knowledge on this site and folks will gladly share....

Okay, thank you.

Ditto what sherod says.



Ditto what patdaly says too.

Have you found the fuel filter location yet?

Pay attention here and now, or you will pay $$ for it later--there are lots of mechanics out there who will gladly take your money and mess up your truck.

Welcome to the website TayTay! Congratulations on getting that 1997 Dodge Cummins Diesel Pickup from your Grandpa. The older 1994-1998.5 Dodge CTD 12 valve trucks are about the most reliable Dodge Diesel Pickups that were made.
Like the other members, I have a highly modified 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve which I bought new and now has 315,000 miles.

The other members have given you some very good advice and tips. I would add to try and get your diesel fuel at stations which pump alot of diesel and as they said keep those fuel filters changed regularly. I am not sure what you mean when you say you want to get a "new ECU??" The 1994-1998.5 Dodge CTD 12 valve trucks have an engine ECM but I have hot heard of very many going bad.

Good luck Sir!

-------
John_P

This is the one I was talking about Edge Products Evolution 85100 - Programmer | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Because your computer has absolutely zero to do with the engine. Computer control did not come about until the 24 valves with our trucks, 1998-1/2. While the Space Shuttle ( my term for them ) trucks are easy to push buttons and build power, they lack in the intrinsic ability to get you home with nothing more than baling wire and duct tape.

Our "tuner" is a set of wrenches........... And that's a good thing, because you can make it run like a scared jackrabbit with very little money ( until you cook your trans that is..... [laugh] )

That Edge 85100 costs $500. If you really are that set on getting it after all the information here, then go ahead and do it. That's all I've got to say.

Welcome Taytay ... My mechanic friend who owns his own shop doesn't even like to touch diesels , he admits he doesn't know them and dosent get in them very often. I've learned all,the basics off here , and still ask questions . When you do change your fuel filter , don't panic when it doesn't start back up right away .[whistle]

Ummmmmmm - Taytay - These fellers are practically busting their humps trying to help you. Pull your head outta your butt and read and hear what they are saying. Regardless of what your "pals" are trying to talk you into buying they don't likely know squat compared to the collective wisdom of this forum. Just saying, YMMV

Mike

OK, I've calmed down a little bit. See TayTay, a modern gasoline engine IS controlled by a computer, and that pricey little box from Edge Products will allow you to change the parameters on a modern gas engine so it will put out a lot more h.p. How much more? Maybe, what... 25 h.p. more? 40 h.p. more? That's a respectable increase.

However, the 12V Cummins diesel is NOT... repeat NOT controlled by a computer. There IS a computer in the truck, but it does other things. The 12V Cummins is pretty mechanical. You will recall what I said about the fuel plate in the INJECTION PUMP being critical to the amount of power the engine produces.

My '95 in stock form produced 160 h.p. With just ONE mod--that of an aftermarket fuel plate--I added 100 h.p. NO fancy Edge box needed. NO timing change. NO bigger injectors. Think boy, before you part with $500.00 for that Edge box.

Jeeze guys, give the poor kid a break, we don't need to scare him away before he understands our "unique" way of helping.......

TayTay, ask away!

Tay:

As Robert and Pat already said, the 1994-1998.5 Dodge CTD 12 VALVE TRUCKS are MECHANICALLY CONTROLLED by the P-7100 fuel pump. That Edge Unit you listed is for the later electronically controlled trucks which Pat pointed out started on the 1999-2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve trucks with the electronic VP-44 Bosch Fuel Pump. Then in 2003, Dodge had to meet even tougher emissions standards, so they went to a heavier "electronically controlled" truck with a
CP-3 Bosch fuel pump and electronically controlled fuel injectors. Our 1994-1998.5 Dodge CTD 12 VALVE trucks are strictly mechanically controlled, there is no electronics on the P-7100 fuel pump or on the injectors. So, to raise power you can change out the fuel curve torque plate, but in doing that the automatic tranny needs to be beefed up.

Tay, here is a link to "TST Products" in Columbus, Indiana that will show you what that fuel curve torque plate looks like:

TST Products, Inc. - 94-98 12 Valve Dodge Ram

You will see them near the bottom of the page.
I hope this helps you understand things better.

--------
John_P

Okay, Okay, Okay, I know that the chip is useless, I get it. Also Thanks everyone so far for answering.

I don't know how to replace the fuel filter, maybe go under the truck?

I just got better so I'm gonna start reading the Service Manual

Also, the truck has less than 100k miles, not sure if that matters. I think that's pretty good, all my grandpa used it for was towing his trailer and moving wood for our fire place.

TayTay welcome i am wondering though is your truck a 5 speed and do you have any pictures i would like to see it

http://i30.tinypic.com/2qth1xs.jpg

See "fuel filter/water separator". I still strongly recommend killer dowel pin repair as priority. Search "KDP".

Nah, it's junk, you only have around 900,000 more miles before it is time for a rebuild..........[guitar]

Here is a video of a fuel filter change.........



Good view of first the pre-filter change then fuel filter. I don't like it that he doesn't show you how to take filter off, in the center of the top of the housing is a 15 MM ( I think ) nut that you loosen to remove the lower housing, you also unplug the WIF ( Water In Fuel ) sensor. Some folks drain the housing first, I never bother myself, it is going to be messy anyway you look at it. I bring mine out the top, others say you can't do it, but I never have an issue. One caveat, when you put it back together, there is a tab and slot to align it, make sure that you get it right, you will be able to run the nut all the way down by hand until you see threads showing if you have it right. Do NOT attempt to bring it home with your wrench, it is a guaranteed breaking of the housing if you do.

Really not hard at all, just pay attention and DON'T do like the idiot does and start it with the starter...... When you get the filter changed, use the priming button to fill your filter. If you watch the first part of the video, as he is putting the pre-filter back on, you will see the lift pump to the right and see a bellows rubber looking thing, that is your manual priming button, ( some are rotted off and only have a white plastic rod sticking out ) anyway, do yourself a favor and get a long handled instrument, I use a garden hoe and use it to push the button until you hear a hissing sound similar to forcing air thru your front teeth with your tongue, this means you are now primed and ready to start, it also allows you to inspect for leaks on both the pre-filter and fuel filter.

Assuming nothing leaks, and you hear the hissing, she should fire right off like you had never worked on her.

Also, as for the KDP, I STRONGLY recommend you get it fixed, lest you get bit like I did...... My saga.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-story-232673/

Less than 100,000 miles! That's great TayTay. Sounds like you've got a wonderful truck there.

It's too dark right now, 6:42 AM, but this is the closest picture I could find on the internet, it's about the same, all stock, just lower than this truck with some running boards.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1997...%3B1600%3B1200

If the image doesn't work, heres this url 1997 dodge ram 2500 - Google Search

I think the KDP will be my first upgrade though, right after I change the filters and oils, and it's nice how it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for a lot of these upgrades

I'm pretty sure it's a 5 speed auto.

And thanks Gorms for the pic! Helps alot!

TayTay, I applaud you for sticking with this Thread and coming back on and learning here. I'm glad you will be doing your own oil and filters and maintenance. Doing the KDP is very important too. Your trans is a 47RE, basically a Chrysler TorqueFlight with an overdrive unit bolted on to the back. It's a pretty good, heavy duty trans, except for the stock torque converter which is marginal. If you get a chance, see if you can find your granddad's truck receipts--that will give you an idea of what he had done to the truck.

And when you change the oil, it will take 11 quarts. Pour most of one quart into your new filter--that is, prefill it before you install it.

Yeah, I'm gonna get that KDP done when I can get my money for it.

It won't cost much--somewhere on this site there is a link to how to do it. Does anyone have that link for him?