How radical would this fuel plate be...
I talked to Mark and TST the other day. He told me that on my 180 pump a #10 plate in the stock location would be good for around 300 rwhp and the #4 would be around 340 rwhp.
It's hard to even compare them. The 8 has very light fuel on the bottom end with OK mid and light top end. The 10 starts out pretty good with strong mid range and then cuts back on the top end. The 4 starts out pretty strong and is all out from there on. The 4 is a good dyno plate, not sure I'd want to DD it and wouldn't even try towing with it.
I talked to Mark and TST the other day. He told me that on my 180 pump a #10 plate in the stock location would be good for around 300 rwhp and the #4 would be around 340 rwhp.
I talked to Mark and TST the other day. He told me that on my 180 pump a #10 plate in the stock location would be good for around 300 rwhp and the #4 would be around 340 rwhp.
No I don't tow at WOT, but I, like most normal folks, don't like having to drive by the pyro which is exactly what you have to do with no plate or an improperly set up plate. I like many others also let other people use my pickup and don't want to have to worry about my motor getting burnt down.
Never had to drive by my pyro. Cruising along at 65 mph tonight, I was only running 625 degrees. Far cry from melt down territory. But I haven't let anyone drive my truck since it was stock.
I just don't like people propagating myths that no plate or an 'extreme' plate somehow makes your truck run hot and is unstreetable, etc. The fuel plate is simply a brick under the pedal.
I just don't like people propagating myths that no plate or an 'extreme' plate somehow makes your truck run hot and is unstreetable, etc. The fuel plate is simply a brick under the pedal.
Not propagating any myths, just stating what is well known. If were as easy as pulling the plate to make gobs of power why do the p-pump "pros", ie. Scheid, Brad Ponci, Jim Fulmer, and multiple others all run plates. It's called a fuel stop plate for a reason.
It's great that you were only running 625 cruising. What were the outside temps? How flate was the terrain? We all know that it only takes X amount of fuel to maintain a constant speed on level ground. I know on my pickup there's a 100-150* difference between 45* and 85* outside temp. I can also tell when I'm getting into the upper ramp of my fuel plate by the feel of the pickup and my EGT gauge.
If you don't mind me asking what are your EGT's towing 15K up a 6% grade for a few miles with no plate?
It's great that you were only running 625 cruising. What were the outside temps? How flate was the terrain? We all know that it only takes X amount of fuel to maintain a constant speed on level ground. I know on my pickup there's a 100-150* difference between 45* and 85* outside temp. I can also tell when I'm getting into the upper ramp of my fuel plate by the feel of the pickup and my EGT gauge.
If you don't mind me asking what are your EGT's towing 15K up a 6% grade for a few miles with no plate?
It's hard to even compare them. The 8 has very light fuel on the bottom end with OK mid and light top end. The 10 starts out pretty good with strong mid range and then cuts back on the top end. The 4 starts out pretty strong and is all out from there on. The 4 is a good dyno plate, not sure I'd want to DD it and wouldn't even try towing with it.
I talked to Mark and TST the other day. He told me that on my 180 pump a #10 plate in the stock location would be good for around 300 rwhp and the #4 would be around 340 rwhp.
I talked to Mark and TST the other day. He told me that on my 180 pump a #10 plate in the stock location would be good for around 300 rwhp and the #4 would be around 340 rwhp.
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jmccart
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
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Dec 1, 2007 06:30 PM



