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-   -   how much does a 12v cummins motor weigh (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/12-valve-engine-drivetrain-100/how-much-does-12v-cummins-motor-weigh-222565/)

98silver12v 11-06-2008 06:44 PM

how much does a 12v cummins motor weigh
 
guy at the parts store told me that a 12v cummins motor weighs 6-800 pounds is this right? any ideas im trying to find a engine stand for it is my reasoning!

sewman 11-06-2008 06:52 PM

I'd say 900lbs

Dartmouth 12V 11-06-2008 07:40 PM

If you are looking at an engine stand, you have to figure in anything else that might be hooked to it when it is on the stand. If you are going to leave your tranny and transfer case on it, factor those in. Stuff like starters and alternators all weigh a lot and can add up fast.

I have only weighed the marine version so I can't help you but 900lbs sounds reasonable for a long block.

98silver12v 11-06-2008 07:49 PM

as it sits now and that will be going on the stand is the motor head and pump and everything up front everything else is off already

chariotdriver 11-06-2008 08:06 PM

Too Much!
 
Mine are about 1100# installed. Both are 7100 12 valve models and have been out of the truck and I weighed them for curiosity sake. It's a bunch to put on the front axle (it rocks when needed) but when a buddy with his high end Audi AWD (500 +hp) challenged me to a tug-of-war (against my stock 96 w/an auto); I drug his edit all over the parking lot and he had a bunch of tranny fluid burping all over his engine compartment. I owned him and drug him around like the gimp from pulp fiction. Not too many words after that. cd

The Dodge CTD is built to do it's intended job.........period

STate 11-06-2008 08:31 PM

I was gonna say right at 1000# for the 12 valve, I read somewhere (maybe on here) the common rail is 1150# or so.

leprechaun 11-06-2008 10:59 PM

961 pounds.I got that off this forum somewhere.

Jim Lane 11-07-2008 01:51 AM

Besides the static weight sitting on the stand I would make sure you had a decent safety margin.

Don’t forget what might happen when you are trying to torque a head bolt or bar it over to run through the valves while it is hanging on the stand.

You might take a chance on getting the engine off balance and topple it over onto yourself so make sure you never put yourself in the path of the engine and the ground where you can’t get out quickly besides the fact it would do serious damage to whatever part it landed on.

Also when you mount the engine to the stand be sure to get yourself some Grade-8 bolts and not some common ones from the hardware store, as all of the 1000+ pounds of the engine will be pivoting from this point.

I saw a 1200# 428 Cobra Jet hit the ground when the bolts snapped.

Before you get a cheap one from some place like Harbor Freight or Pep Boys check it over closely and see that it is built heavy enough and pay particular attention to the cheap casters that might break off and toss your engine if you try and move it.

I took my engine stand and beefed it up be welding in extra gussets on critical points, welded 4”x 4” plates at the ends and added heavy lockable 4” casters.
Just be careful.
Jim

Yreka 11-14-2008 04:33 PM


Originally Posted by chariotdriver (Post 2270939)
Mine are about 1100# installed. Both are 7100 12 valve models and have been out of the truck and I weighed them for curiosity sake. It's a bunch to put on the front axle (it rocks when needed) but when a buddy with his high end Audi AWD (500 +hp) challenged me to a tug-of-war (against my stock 96 w/an auto); I drug his biotch-arrrrrssss all over the parking lot and he had a bunch of tranny fluid burping all over his engine compartment. I owned him and drug him around like the gimp from pulp fiction. Not too many words after that. cd

The Dodge CTD is built to do it's intended job.........period

Please tell me you have a video of this [coffee]

Tate 11-14-2008 11:18 PM


Originally Posted by Jim Lane (Post 2271182)
Besides the static weight sitting on the stand I would make sure you had a decent safety margin.

Don’t forget what might happen when you are trying to torque a head bolt or bar it over to run through the valves while it is hanging on the stand.

You might take a chance on getting the engine off balance and topple it over onto yourself so make sure you never put yourself in the path of the engine and the ground where you can’t get out quickly besides the fact it would do serious damage to whatever part it landed on.

Also when you mount the engine to the stand be sure to get yourself some Grade-8 bolts and not some common ones from the hardware store, as all of the 1000+ pounds of the engine will be pivoting from this point.

I saw a 1200# 428 Cobra Jet hit the ground when the bolts snapped.

Before you get a cheap one from some place like Harbor Freight or Pep Boys check it over closely and see that it is built heavy enough and pay particular attention to the cheap casters that might break off and toss your engine if you try and move it.

I took my engine stand and beefed it up be welding in extra gussets on critical points, welded 4”x 4” plates at the ends and added heavy lockable 4” casters.
Just be careful.
Jim

1200 lbs 428?

You might look into mounting the engine to the stand where the motor mount bolts to the block. You won't have all that weight hanging out an average of 18 inches, more like 8" to center. Easier on the stand, will be more stable. I had a 460 on an engine stand that was good for 1000 lbs, and it put a pretty good lean in it. My spare 12v resides in a home built stand that supports it by the motor mounts. More even weight distribution, and beefier than anything most places carry.

1stGen545 11-18-2008 04:23 PM

7 Attachment(s)
this is the second one I have built and they work great. I called Southern Plains Cummins and they said this is how they mount the B.

3" X 3" X 3/8" square and 5"x 3/8" pipe out side and 1/2" wall pipe center and 2 12" channel iron welded side by side for mounting plate. will hardly budge and roles with one hand with engine mounted ( but takes 2 hands to stop that heavy thing)

1/4 turn of the orange lever and is fully locked and can not turn. Plan to use a starter gear to turn but I tore a 5.9 down a few nights ago and just turned it over by hand.


Attachment 74410

Attachment 74411

older than I am but it works great, just turn it on and walk away turns it self off when done

Attachment 74412

Attachment 74413

Attachment 74414

Attachment 74415

Attachment 74416

jimbob1111 12-15-2008 09:43 PM

My new used engine stands
 
2 Attachment(s)
I currently have 7 engine stands. I bought the Matco 1000lb geared engine stand thinking I would put the Cummins out of the tug on it, I THOUGHT WRONG!
My buddy Daniel bought the Napa geared engine stand. the Matco & the Napa look the same except for the paint color. Neither one has impressed us! We mounted a 8.0L V10 out of a wrecked Dodge 2500 on his Napa stand. It leaned quite a bit, and sways whenever you touch it. He put a 4x4 post under the block to brace it up. The Harbor Freight 2000lb stand is much sturdier than either of the geared stands we bought. The Napa, Matco & HF are all made in China
At some point I'll get the Cummins out of the tug, so I bought these.
A Kiene Model 900 5000lb rated diesel engine stand and a Bacharach diesel engine stand. The pics just don't do them justice, they are huge! about 700lbs each.
I put the Kiene on ebay last week & no takers. I put the Bacharach on this week. My wife needs to think I'm trying to get rid of some of the stuff I drag home. [whistle]
I think the $129 Harbor Freight 2000lb engine stand is the only cheap stand I would put a 6bt on and feel kinda safe.
1stGen545 "That stand you built is a very nice piece of work!"
98silver12v keep your eye on ebay and craig's list, I saw a 2000lb OTC geared engine stand sell for less than $70 on ebay in the last 2 weeks, there's some good deals out there.
James

rattlerbob5.9 12-16-2008 02:03 PM

1stgen545
Nice job that is a good looking stand with lots of safety added in and the always needed shelf to set things on. Nice welds also --you can have all the steel you want but a weak/poor weld can kill you.

1stGen545 12-16-2008 10:42 PM

jimbob1111

thanks. We had stands like those at TSTC and would hold and flip a 855 Big Cam or N-14 cummins with no prob.

rattlerbob5.9

thanks I agree about the welds. I even left the ends of the 3x3 open so that I could add removable trays later


I got to use it the other day to strip down a complete 5.9 and now has a block with 14mm main studs ready to reassemble after it all made a trip to the machine shop. I will get pics of it all. even though i don't have the gear to turn it over on yet it was easy to turn over by hand with a complete engine.

TIMMY22 12-17-2008 09:35 PM

cummins 6 B 5.9, 12 valve
The Cummins B 5.9 was introduced in 1984 as an agriculture engine. It was not until 1989 that it became the first B-Series Cummins engine to be used in a light duty truck; the Dodge Ram. The B 5.9, also known as the "12 Valve", became a popular alternative to the V8 engines typically used in these trucks, as it generated nearly double the torque at low engine speeds and nearly doubled the fuel ecomony as well. Mid-year in 1991, the B 5.9 recieved an intercooler. The 12 valve featured Bosch Direct Fuel Injection utilized a VE injection pump between 1989 - 1993, and a P7100 injection pump between 1994 - 1998. The 12 valve 5.9 remains one of the most popular engines in the market, despite being replaced by the 24 valve ISB midway through the 1998 model year.


SPECIFICATIONS:
Configuration: Inline 6 cylinder
Displacement: 359 cubic inches, 5.9 liters
Compression Ratio: (varies with model year) 17.6:1
Bore: 4.02 inches
Stroke: 4.72 inches
Aspiration: Turbocharged
Valvetrain: OHV, 12 valves, solid lifter
Oil Capacity: 15.8 quarts
Weight: 975 lbs
Horsepower: 160 - 215 @ 2500 RPM (varies with model year)
Torque: 400 - 440 @ 1600 RPM (varies with model year)

-Cumminsdieselspecs.org


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