How many start tries on a cold day?
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Southern Maine
Grid heaters should be working if you have current draw with the wait to start light on, evidenced by the cab light dimming and then getting brighter when the wts light goes out. Still sounds like a fuel problem somewhere, mine starts to -25 F without being plugged in, cycle the grid heaters twice, then a little throttle and crank for 5-7 seconds and it'll start. Lots of white smoke for a few min until things warm up.
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From: Chapel Hill, NC
So even if it cranks and fires after less than 1 second of starting... it may not be a problem?
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: WV
Mine does the same thing and it started it after I had 4k gov springs installed. Before that the beast would spring to life down to 25 deg. w/o waiting for the heater. Now at 30 deg. you have to crank let it hit then crank some more let it hit then crank and it will usually start. Haven't tried at a colder temp. but I'm sure it would be worse. I'm not real happy with that aspect of the 4k springs if that is what my problem is.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Irricana, Alberta, Canada
Mine can be a real pain to start as well when it gets down to -28c or so.I always cycle the grids twice, crank it until it tries to fire and then cycle the grids again.I also keep the pedal about halfway to the floor and this usualy gets her going.My idle is at 800 in gear.
To check your grids put a meter on the terminals on the intake, at initial start up both grids should be live.If not follow the heavy wire down to the relays located on the inner fender, check for 12v on both sides of the relay.Then check for 12v on the small wires. Nothing there then there is another relay up on the firewall beside the brake booster.The samller one should be for the grids.All of these relays are ground activated by the computer so there should be 12 v on them at all times with the ground being activated by the 'puter.
To check your grids put a meter on the terminals on the intake, at initial start up both grids should be live.If not follow the heavy wire down to the relays located on the inner fender, check for 12v on both sides of the relay.Then check for 12v on the small wires. Nothing there then there is another relay up on the firewall beside the brake booster.The samller one should be for the grids.All of these relays are ground activated by the computer so there should be 12 v on them at all times with the ground being activated by the 'puter.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: MA
So even if it cranks and fires after less than 1 second of starting... it may not be a problem?
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
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From: Prince George, B.C.
Mine has always started down to 0 DegFwith no plug in (although I avoid it if possible due to thick oil taking time to build pressure). I would guess it is more likely your winter "climatized" fuel in North Carolina not having enough kerosene and causing gelling (wax plugging) of fuel filter. Plug-in block heater masks the problem since there is the 12V fuel heater to keep fuel warm once started and unplugged. Try taking some sample fuel in a clear glass jar and leaving outside and see if wax precipitates out (or clouds badly)overnight?
Starting okay and then shutting down shortly after is a classic symptom of gelling. The fuel filter quickly gets plugged by wax particles and starves engine once started.
Starting okay and then shutting down shortly after is a classic symptom of gelling. The fuel filter quickly gets plugged by wax particles and starves engine once started.
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From: Chapel Hill, NC
But 32*F temps surely aren't cold enough to start gelling fuel are they?
I'll try out you're jar advice though...
Can anyone answer this? (from a previous post that didn't get answered).
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
I'll try out you're jar advice though...
Can anyone answer this? (from a previous post that didn't get answered).
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Indiana
Only time I had a fuel gelling problem was at -8 (forgot to pour in the additive). It started sputtering for about a 1/4 mile then just quit. Had to leave it and come back later in the day when it was a few degrees warmer and then it started right up. Engage the starter first and then immediatly depress the pedal about a 1/4 - won't hurt anything.
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From: Northwest, Minnesota USA
But 32*F temps surely aren't cold enough to start gelling fuel are they?
I'll try out you're jar advice though...
Can anyone answer this? (from a previous post that didn't get answered).
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
I'll try out you're jar advice though...
Can anyone answer this? (from a previous post that didn't get answered).
So is it ok to give it throttle and starter at the same time... it will rev up a bit if I crank it and step on the throttle at the same time, I'm not going to damage my starter by that correct?
It is better on your starter to give the engine fuel and get it started then to crank and crank and crank.
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Cooperstown,NY
Still no luck. I'm not 100% sure what is giving power to the grid heaters, even where they are, but I have a good idea of what they are. I tried the two connections with little rubber boots on them near that big metal "support brace" (I know it has something more to do than that) with a voltmeter and they showed nothing. However its below freezing and raining (why can't it be snow?) outside, not to mention its pitch black, so I'm not positive I was doing everything right.
Anyway, I still think the grids are functioning alright because when the Wait to Start light comes on, all the cab lights dim, and when the light goes off everything brightens back up a little. I gave it a few more shots, including holding the starter for about 3 seconds and varying the throttle, but it still acted like it wanted to start, and even changed RPMs when I was holding the starter and varying the throttle but it never started and ran on its own.
Then I went to my other 12v, and it started just fine.
So, any other ideas? I know its definitly to warm for the fuel to start gelling up, and it ran just fine yesterday. I could smell a little bit of diesel fuel in the air too, is that something that could lead to an answer? Anyway, I ran another extension cord out there and plugged it in, and I'll see if she starts up tomorrow.
Any more ideas?
P.S. its the first truck in my sig, so its stock. I tried cycling the grids too.
Anyway, I still think the grids are functioning alright because when the Wait to Start light comes on, all the cab lights dim, and when the light goes off everything brightens back up a little. I gave it a few more shots, including holding the starter for about 3 seconds and varying the throttle, but it still acted like it wanted to start, and even changed RPMs when I was holding the starter and varying the throttle but it never started and ran on its own.
Then I went to my other 12v, and it started just fine.
So, any other ideas? I know its definitly to warm for the fuel to start gelling up, and it ran just fine yesterday. I could smell a little bit of diesel fuel in the air too, is that something that could lead to an answer? Anyway, I ran another extension cord out there and plugged it in, and I'll see if she starts up tomorrow.
Any more ideas?
P.S. its the first truck in my sig, so its stock. I tried cycling the grids too.
I tought my ford was not gelling last year when I got stuck and needed a tow. The dealer was open late
and found that the fuel was fine but there was ice that kept clogging the screen in fuel pump. 
W&$^^^%## I had just filled up an hour before and must have gotten some water in it.
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Land of milk and honey.
untreated fuel can gel at 10*F but usually not till 5*f or 0*F. For some reason, fuel systems seem to jell after you start moving. I don't know if its the air rushing through or the fuel that is in the filter stopping small particles of gel until it becomes completely blocked. Remember, your return fuel that starts to make it's way back to the tank is warmer and will help. I use howes in the truck and never had a problem. all my jelling experiences are with tractors or outside oil tanks for furnaces.
I started mine an hour ago, it was 0*. fired right off. not pluged in but I had it running about 4 hours before.
I started mine an hour ago, it was 0*. fired right off. not pluged in but I had it running about 4 hours before.
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From: Oklahoma
been really fortunate to not need more than 1 second of cranking to start CTD. this is at 0 degree f with block heater plugged in.
same for 10 degree f starts without block heater plugged. step on throttle aprox. 1/8, then back off throttle, then blip to aprox. 1500 rpm, then idle motor to 1,100.
I've only been filling up at one of the highest volume fuel dealer in town.
don't know if it makes much difference, but insures I'm only getting freshest fuel.
same for 10 degree f starts without block heater plugged. step on throttle aprox. 1/8, then back off throttle, then blip to aprox. 1500 rpm, then idle motor to 1,100.
I've only been filling up at one of the highest volume fuel dealer in town.
don't know if it makes much difference, but insures I'm only getting freshest fuel.