When I checked my grid heaters at the cables and across the terminals I got the zero (well, near zero) resistance that I was supposed, but when I turned on the ignition I had no voltage, however, i did hear the click that I would believe to be the solenoids. So, would it still be the solenoids that need to be relpaced, or could it be something else that I need to check.

 

Are you checking resistance or voltage? Are you using a DVM or an analog meter?

If you check the resistance of the grid heater from a good ground to the terminal you will only get about 1 ohm or less of resistance, these heaters are almost a dead short.

Check the RESISTANCE with the heaters NOT energized or you will burn out your meter.

You want to check for VOLTAGE with one probe on the engine ground and with the other probe on the grid terminal where the wire is and it should read voltage (will be less than battery voltage) if there is NOT then follow it back to the solenoid and check both terminals, 1 side should be HOT all the time and both should be hot when the solenoid pulls in (CLUNK)
If it is NOT hot on both terminals when it clunks then the solenoid is bad.
You will need to check this for both heaters.


Another way to check the solenoid is to check it with a test light put the wires for the light on both LARGE terminal bolts on the top of the solenoid.
With the ignition switch ON the light should be ON, (grid heaters will complete the ground path) when the heaters cycle ON then the light should be OFF.

If it remains on when the solenoid pulls in then the contacts in the solenoid are bad and will need to be replaced.

The 2 soienoids are located below the master cylinder if you were not sure.

If your solenoids are NOT cycling it now be the the temps are not low enough, sensor is bad, solenoids bad....
Here in Southern California we never hear them.

Hope this helps.

Jim