I believe if you buy a new throttle rod it will have the new sockets. You'll have to ask the parts man about the ballstuds.

 

Speaking of recalls when I typed my vin in it also showed a front coil spring or shock mount reinforcement for the 94 4 x 4 diesel. What is the weakness with this problem?

 

It's a recall so DC picks up the labor tab and they don't pay much. So, chances are you are going to have a novice intern working on your truck instaed of the 20 year veteran. You might be alright but more than likely they will screw something else up while there at it.

 

Hmm, thanks for making me feel iffy about taking it in now. joke... I'll see what happens. But I like free stuff.

 

Well, just called the dealer with my VIN. Turned out the original owner had all 3 recalls done (throttle cable, brake, and ignition switch). Glad I don't have to worry about them anymore. My abs/brake lights are still constantly on though...

 

Check for good vacuum at the vacuum switch on the driver's fender well area. Those switches can go bad or you may have a vacuum leak from swelled hoses.

 

wcbcruzer, I posted this in the common problems section a while back...

__________________________________________________ ____________
If your ABS light and brake light come on, in most cases it's probably your Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (RWSS). This sensor is on top of the rear differential.

This sensor is controlled by a "exciter ring" that is interupted by the teeth on the ring sending a variable voltage signal to the computer depending on vehicle speed. small metal shavings can cause it to fail over time. The most common symptoms of the switch's failure are bad speedometer readings and tripping the RWAL computer located under the center of the dash.

Other obvious things can also trip the computer such as:

1. bad pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders.

2. bad fuses.

3. poor connections or broken and/or chaffed wire.


Once you have detemined that none of the above exist, you can try a system reset buy pulling the abs fuse and/or pulling negative battery terminals for 30 sec or so.


If the lights come back, the next thing to try is reading the RWAL fault codes.

To read the codes on 96 and older trucks:

1. turn key to the "on" position.

2. for just a second, ground pin # 13 on the diagnostic plug located on the knee bolster (#13 is a black wire, it's the 4th from right bottom row).

watch your ABS/Brake light for codes.

start counting with the first long flash, end with last short flash.

there are only 13 codes.


1. Not used.
2. open isolation valve wiring or bad control module.
3. open dump valve wiring or bad contol module.
4. closed rwal switch.
5. not used 4wd. over 16 dump pulses in 2wd.
6. erratic speed sensor reading. (most common)
7. electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground.
8. dump output missing or valve wiring shorted to ground.
9. speed sensor wire resistance/ high reading.
10. speed sensor wire resistance/ low reading.
11. brake switch always on, RWAL light comes on over 40mph.
12. not used.
13. electronic control module phase lock loop failure.
14. electronic control module program check failure.
15. electronic control module RAM falure.

mine was a code 10. it was a break in the molded section of wire off the RWSS.

*On 97-98.5 12V models, you will end up at the dealer to get the ABS codes.


Hope this helps, and good luck!

 

do you have an electric brake controller installed. If you do unplug it. If the lights go out let me know.

 

Thats a big part of it, the other thing is the dealers around here suck big time!!! They do stupid stuff like take a vehical in for a recall and take the vehical apart without having the parts, then call you and tell you its going to be a week before they can get the parts in, or take it in for one thing and beak something else and try to put the blame on the owner of the vehical and want to charge an arm and a leg to fix something they broke. Sorry I just haven't had good expirences with the local dealers, not so much me, but friends and reletives. I just feel alot more comfortable doing the repairs myself than letting someone that I have no idea of thier knowledge working on my truck. But that just me with my local dealers.

 

could not agree with you more!

 

Call your dealer and tell them about the recall you need done. They will point you in the direction of the nearest dealer with a certified welder. Basically they weld in a reinforcement bracket to the upper coil tower. Apparently the upper coil tower can crack on the early 2nd Gens. It is definitely worth doing!!!

 

I know more than one person who have quit jobs in the dealership shops because specific instructions are given to fix it however you can using as few new parts as needed. Unfortunate for those who have a very light piggy bank like mine. For that reason I had no idea i had three recalls on mine when i had to resort to the dealership option.....but i at least have the comfort that $25 dollars at the parts store can buy enough toggle switches and wire to allow me to fix my own headlamp switch and ignition switch. Gotta love the push button start....

 

The mount recall is a good one because most dealers send it out to be done, requires a certified welder. Most dealers don't have a welder to screw things up.

 

Well, I had some time this afternoon to finish my recall install. I did the cable the day I picked it up and the ball studs and sockets today.

It took me about an hour total to remove and disassemble the bellcrank assembly, throttle rod and throttle lever. Press out the old ball studs, install the new ones, and reassemble.

WOW! big difference. My pedal used to be heavy, sticky and you had to press about 1/2" before anything would happen. now my pedal is light, sharp, and sensative. Feels like i'm driving a brand new truck. Sure glad I didn't have to take it to the dealer.

 

Wher do I go to run my VIN to find out about recalls ?