My wonderful truck has started a serious problem. This morning while going to work I was being followed rather close by a ford, so I put a little into it and my tach went up about 500 rpm, with no increase in mph. I was running in fifth and going up a hill. I thought oh great, need a new clutch.

I verified the problem on the way home and am investigating a new clutch. Why are there so many choices. I would rather not spend too much on a new hi perf clutch, 90% of my driving is unloaded going to work. I do pull a cattle trailer and a flat bed with round bails on it everynow and then. All I need is the stock clutch. I have ran searches on this, but cannot find a part number from DTR forums. Does anybody have a PN that autozone, o'reilly's or napa would recognize that is of a good quality clutch? I don't want to be left stranded somewhere and need to get his replaced soon.

I have access to a tranny jack and a tranny mech from a chrysler dealer so how hard would it be to throw in a new clutch in my shop. The mech would be there for moral support mainly.

Thanks a bunch.

 

Here is a link that will get you to a part number on the LuK Gold, which is a first rate aftermarket unit for the diesel. The price is less than most parts stores, and half what you will pay at Dodge for their lesser quality OEM unit.
http://www.dialaclutch.com/DAC-DEMO/...=GGTEK&cars=14

 

Thanks for the link.

Is it really necessary to change the master and slave cylinders as well? I had heard that if you are changing the clutch to go ahead anc replace those as well.

 

I added guages and a #10 plate to mine over the holiday's and mine is starting to slip also. Seems to do it more in 4th and 5th at high rpm's. I'm also looking for what way to go. Any help will be great.

 

Guys

Peter at southbend is the man to call. I would get anything except a centerforce dual disk, or any centerforce for that matter. I have a stocker right now, with a decently modded truck and it still holds up well, if i dont get on it too hard. The centerforce i had lasted no more than 15K miles... not good, the stocker in mine is up to 26K and still holdin (somehow)..

Rick

 

hello all,
a bit of advise from expirence. if you flywheel is burnt real bad do not resurace it because it will cause a chatter sometimes when putting it in reverse with a heavy load. if it has to be resuraced it needs a new one, but they are real expensive. good luck with the clutch job!!!

 

I just put in my South Bend OFE. man, what a difference. The clutch pedal is as light as or lighter than any other car I have driven, and true to Peter's word, the engagement point is very low, like maybe 1 1/2" off the floor.

With the old worn out Luk (it had been replaced before we found out), it engaged about 1 1/2" from all the way up.

Time to relearn the shift timing I guess. Got 250 miles to do so in during the break in period.

It took about 4 1/2 hrs to do the job, including replacing some seals on the tcase.

 

Just an update. It really started to slip bad, so I had to get it done at a shop. I ended up going with the Autozone in stock choice. I couldn't wait 3-5 days to get the Luk Gold series in and nobody in the area had one in stock. So far, it grabs good and no chatter or any noise. Real test will be in a few weeks when I have to pull the livestock trailer again.

It ended up being the pressure plate fins. Have were bent in about 1/4". Not sure how that could have happened, I have never dropped the clutch in the last 4 months.

One other thing, the pressure plate housing had LUK stamped on it. So that could not have been a stock clutch to begin with, or am I wrong. I just got the truck 4 months ago, and it had 130K when I bought it.

Thanks for all the help.

 

the luk pro gold was cheaper at autozone, plus luk is what comes factory on the dodges...the gold is just a higher performance one that you dont need unless you have a high performance plate or injectors.