ball joint needs replacing?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: rapid city, sd
ball joint needs replacing?
hi guys, i havent been on here for a while due to not having access to internet.
anyways i need help. my ball joint is pretty much gone and i need to know if i could this myself or do i have to take into a shop.
my dad decided to take his 95 2wd into the shop a long time ago for the same thing but he did it because he didnt want to mess with his.
so can i do this on a weekend with a very limited resource of tools or should i take to a shop?
thanks, sal
anyways i need help. my ball joint is pretty much gone and i need to know if i could this myself or do i have to take into a shop.
my dad decided to take his 95 2wd into the shop a long time ago for the same thing but he did it because he didnt want to mess with his.
so can i do this on a weekend with a very limited resource of tools or should i take to a shop?
thanks, sal
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: Catawba, VA
There is a 3rd gen write up in the tech articles section by Mr Gadget on replacing ball joints. The pdf one has lots of pictures. Even though yours is an earlier model the principals are the same. I second checking the auto parts stores for loaner tools. That's what I did for the ball joint kit. Also I purchased a $20 3/4" breaker bar from my local harbor freight. The mass of it made loosening and tightening nuts real easy. Use lots of good penetrating fluid and let it soak in.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Pattison, TX
just my opinion
Hey there,
Just my opinion... if you're not a mechanic, I would take it someone to have it done. You can do it with hand tools, but it's not easy and if you do it yourself. You'll need a grinder (to take off the spot welds), a balljoint press kit ( to put the new joint in), a 2-5 lbs sledge (to get the old joint out) and some pickle forks (to split the ball joint from the spindle). I reccomend getting the joints from NAPA. The "in house" brand joints are Moog which is pretty much top of the heap for running gear. My last tip would be to do all 4 of them at the same time. If one is going out, more than likely they're all close to gone. While you're in there, you could go ahead and do your tie-rod ends (4 total) and your pitman arm and idler arm. You'll need a pitman arm puller and the rest of it is all hand tools. Easy money, but often over looked. My truck is 15 years old and ugly as hell, but the fornt end is tighter than a new truck's.
Keep in mind, while you're doing this, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace your wheel bearings and races while you have rotors off. They should be repacked at least every year, but most people overlook it... and f you havn't repacked them in a while they'll need to be replaced.
All said and done, I did my whole front end, including installing a front and rear lift kit (daystar spacers in fornt and add a leaves in rear) in one weekend... the hardest part was the add-a-leaves. That job was a pain in the *** because the kit was not complete and I found out halfway into the job I had to drop the gas tank to get to the front eye bolt on the driver's side. ARGH!!!
Anyway... if you have basic understanding of tool use, you can do this job yourself, but it's a tough one... so make sure you have the whole weekend in case something goes wrong. Otherwise, it's not that much more expensive to get a shop to do it... I thinkl about $700-$1000 (depends on the shop) or so for all 4 balljoints, and the bearing repack is about $30 or so. Of course if you do it yourself, you can get it done for about $300. Just depends on your skill level and your pocket book.
Johnny
Just my opinion... if you're not a mechanic, I would take it someone to have it done. You can do it with hand tools, but it's not easy and if you do it yourself. You'll need a grinder (to take off the spot welds), a balljoint press kit ( to put the new joint in), a 2-5 lbs sledge (to get the old joint out) and some pickle forks (to split the ball joint from the spindle). I reccomend getting the joints from NAPA. The "in house" brand joints are Moog which is pretty much top of the heap for running gear. My last tip would be to do all 4 of them at the same time. If one is going out, more than likely they're all close to gone. While you're in there, you could go ahead and do your tie-rod ends (4 total) and your pitman arm and idler arm. You'll need a pitman arm puller and the rest of it is all hand tools. Easy money, but often over looked. My truck is 15 years old and ugly as hell, but the fornt end is tighter than a new truck's.
Keep in mind, while you're doing this, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace your wheel bearings and races while you have rotors off. They should be repacked at least every year, but most people overlook it... and f you havn't repacked them in a while they'll need to be replaced.
All said and done, I did my whole front end, including installing a front and rear lift kit (daystar spacers in fornt and add a leaves in rear) in one weekend... the hardest part was the add-a-leaves. That job was a pain in the *** because the kit was not complete and I found out halfway into the job I had to drop the gas tank to get to the front eye bolt on the driver's side. ARGH!!!
Anyway... if you have basic understanding of tool use, you can do this job yourself, but it's a tough one... so make sure you have the whole weekend in case something goes wrong. Otherwise, it's not that much more expensive to get a shop to do it... I thinkl about $700-$1000 (depends on the shop) or so for all 4 balljoints, and the bearing repack is about $30 or so. Of course if you do it yourself, you can get it done for about $300. Just depends on your skill level and your pocket book.
Johnny
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Hey there,
Just my opinion... if you're not a mechanic, I would take it someone to have it done. You can do it with hand tools, but it's not easy and if you do it yourself. You'll need a grinder (to take off the spot welds), a balljoint press kit ( to put the new joint in), a 2-5 lbs sledge (to get the old joint out) and some pickle forks (to split the ball joint from the spindle). I reccomend getting the joints from NAPA. The "in house" brand joints are Moog which is pretty much top of the heap for running gear. My last tip would be to do all 4 of them at the same time. If one is going out, more than likely they're all close to gone. While you're in there, you could go ahead and do your tie-rod ends (4 total) and your pitman arm and idler arm. You'll need a pitman arm puller and the rest of it is all hand tools. Easy money, but often over looked. My truck is 15 years old and ugly as hell, but the fornt end is tighter than a new truck's.
Keep in mind, while you're doing this, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace your wheel bearings and races while you have rotors off. They should be repacked at least every year, but most people overlook it... and f you havn't repacked them in a while they'll need to be replaced.
All said and done, I did my whole front end, including installing a front and rear lift kit (daystar spacers in fornt and add a leaves in rear) in one weekend... the hardest part was the add-a-leaves. That job was a pain in the *** because the kit was not complete and I found out halfway into the job I had to drop the gas tank to get to the front eye bolt on the driver's side. ARGH!!!
Anyway... if you have basic understanding of tool use, you can do this job yourself, but it's a tough one... so make sure you have the whole weekend in case something goes wrong. Otherwise, it's not that much more expensive to get a shop to do it... I thinkl about $700-$1000 (depends on the shop) or so for all 4 balljoints, and the bearing repack is about $30 or so. Of course if you do it yourself, you can get it done for about $300. Just depends on your skill level and your pocket book.
Johnny
Just my opinion... if you're not a mechanic, I would take it someone to have it done. You can do it with hand tools, but it's not easy and if you do it yourself. You'll need a grinder (to take off the spot welds), a balljoint press kit ( to put the new joint in), a 2-5 lbs sledge (to get the old joint out) and some pickle forks (to split the ball joint from the spindle). I reccomend getting the joints from NAPA. The "in house" brand joints are Moog which is pretty much top of the heap for running gear. My last tip would be to do all 4 of them at the same time. If one is going out, more than likely they're all close to gone. While you're in there, you could go ahead and do your tie-rod ends (4 total) and your pitman arm and idler arm. You'll need a pitman arm puller and the rest of it is all hand tools. Easy money, but often over looked. My truck is 15 years old and ugly as hell, but the fornt end is tighter than a new truck's.
Keep in mind, while you're doing this, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and replace your wheel bearings and races while you have rotors off. They should be repacked at least every year, but most people overlook it... and f you havn't repacked them in a while they'll need to be replaced.
All said and done, I did my whole front end, including installing a front and rear lift kit (daystar spacers in fornt and add a leaves in rear) in one weekend... the hardest part was the add-a-leaves. That job was a pain in the *** because the kit was not complete and I found out halfway into the job I had to drop the gas tank to get to the front eye bolt on the driver's side. ARGH!!!
Anyway... if you have basic understanding of tool use, you can do this job yourself, but it's a tough one... so make sure you have the whole weekend in case something goes wrong. Otherwise, it's not that much more expensive to get a shop to do it... I thinkl about $700-$1000 (depends on the shop) or so for all 4 balljoints, and the bearing repack is about $30 or so. Of course if you do it yourself, you can get it done for about $300. Just depends on your skill level and your pocket book.
Johnny
Also because it is 4wd NO TACK WELDS TO GRIND OFF for ball joints.
If YOU were installing an *ADD A LEAF* rear lift kit you would NOT have to drop the fuel tank to get at the front spring hanger bolt THE ONLY REASON TO PULL THAT BOLT IS TO CHANGE THE MAIN LEAF SPRING - ALL the others can be serviced without removing the main.
For 94 ram - consider replacing the front u-joints while you are in there and before you take things apart check those front unit wheel bearings for play and turning smooth since you have to remove them to get to the ball joints no sense in putting a bad one back in.
Use a socket and an extention from behind by using the power steering and turning the wheel as a press to push them out push on the bolt that mounts the bearing (infidel has a great right up on this) as well as being very careful to support the axle shaft so you do not damage the axle seals.
You should NOT use a pickle fork on the tie rods that is a good way to ruin the seals instead use two good hammers (sometimes one will work) and smack the joint from both sides to pop it loose.
Make sure you have a long weekend if possible things can go bad when you are short on time soak the axle nut and the wheel bearing bolts for a few days prior with penetrant oil and do some more reading here on DTR to get more familiar with what you will need to do and you will do alright.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Rapid City SD/Whapeton ND
hey im guna highjack the thread from 94ram most likely i'll be there to help with the job. its a pretty strait forward job right? i did my front u-joints and wheel bearings on my 93 4x4 with a simple craftsman set. but if we had to we could go to autozone to get somne of the tools right?... or even better i know a lot of mechanics. but how much different its the tear down vs my 93?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
72dart
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
3
Jun 19, 2012 10:42 PM
Wulzcat
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
1
Dec 19, 2009 05:15 PM
wcbcruzer
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
22
Apr 30, 2008 06:58 PM
FDC
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
2
Jul 16, 2007 12:51 PM
Treangen
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
4
May 7, 2007 03:10 PM