I know HOW to do it....but I can barely reach the screw let alone get a wrench on it....anyone have any tips to get at this thing?

Would be nice if the fuel filter wasnt right there.

Thanks.

 

Two bolts and the fuel filter moves a bit??

 

I use a shorty snap-on wrench,it JUST fits in and you can move the screw with your fingers then snug the locknut tight with the wrench..works good for me..helps to have someone in the truck to watch tach so you aren't jumping up and down off truck.<><

 

Good Doctor:

It also helps if you have the skinny pedal depressed when you do this as it takes the pressure off the screw that you are going to adjust. A milk carton crate and standing on your head is about the only way that I can get to it also.

John (DH)

 

Thanks fellas...I will have to give it another shot tommorrow.

Im cursed with short arms....

 

Also, keep in mind that you dont need to rely comletely on that low sped idle screw. There are adjustment plates on the linkage as well.
After replacing the linkage on mine for the second time ( tip, grease the hell out of the ball fittings) I couldnt get the idle where I wanted with out adjusting both

 

Short arms definitely won't help set the idle screw! Every time I have set the idle on a CTD, I could not crack the screw free with my fingers after the jam nut was loosened. I use a small pair of vise grips or pliers to grab the head of the screw to crack it free....then, usually you can spin it with your fingers....the screw spins much easier by hand if you take the load of the linkage off of it too. I have never had to move the fuel filter to adjust the idle. You just need a 10mm open end wrench, small pair of vise grips and hideously long double jointed arms wouldn't hurt either!

 

forearms are kinda on the big side too...

No doubt some new cuss words will be uttered at some point today.

 

I used a combination of a stubby 10 mm , and a flex head ratcheting 10 mm , it worked the best i think. I can't remember which one i actually used , one worked better. It's hard to turn something you can't even see...

 

Wish u were close

id do it for ya for free... well anyways, my sleeves are 36's and im not very big, rather cut tho, he he he he he, the way i do it, is i stand on my full replacement bumper, and just do it, but i have stood on a five gallon bucket and adjusted it that way from the drivers side as well, be careful with the screw, it is VERY touchy... anyways... i use just a regular 10 mm wrench, till my grampa gave me one that actually ratchets as a gift.. VERY COOL i might add.. i can tighten all of my screws from the lower and and timing cover in a very cool fashion, and cause it is rather stubby, it adjusts my ide easily... i suggest u get one if u can..

Tx

 

Got it done...

I ended up using a regular 10mm, stubby 10 mm, ratcheting 10mm, and 1/4" flex head stubby ratchet with a deep socket.

Hopefully next time will be a little easier.

 

What RPM are you supposed to set them at? Mine idles at around 600ish on the dash tach with nothing on and around 500ish with the exhaust brake set...

 

i have mine at about 650 in gear and ac on

i just adjusted it until my mirrors stopped shaking and i could start it with two or three turnovers of the engine with no pedal pressure on it. its a lil above the first line... ill get a pic up soon..

Tx

 

Should be 750 (some say a bit closer to 800) in gear with the AC on...

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adj...d_Gen-Idle.htm

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-07-98.htm

My idle was around 500-600 asnd now it definitely runs better

 

A buddy of mine set my idle using a scantool...he set it right on spec, whatever it was. I felt it was too high...with A/C off and in Neutral it idled at 1000 rpm. So, just now, I reset it a little lower. Now, stopped in Drive with A/C on it is just below the second mark between 0 and 1000 rpm(tach needle points at exactly 9 0'clock) and just above the same mark in neutral with A/C off.

I used a 10mm deep socket on a stubby ratchet to loosen and tighten the lock nut. The idle screw was too tight to turn with fingers...had to use a 10 mm box end on it. It was a little difficult because you can't see much of anything...but I have short arms and had no problems reaching down in there from over the driver side fender standing on a 2' high tree stump.