Thanks for that input w17he, can only tell you to check your rear brakes if you think you should, go ahead and drop a rear wheel (or two) and check your remaining shoe/pad thickness, run that info against what the thickness should be new, never hurts to have some idea of whats what. Now are you saying you think I should check my front barrings, if so, why? I only have rear wheel abs, I'm not seeing the connection, however when I got the rig I did have to replace the drivers side front hub/barring assembly , I did check the passenger side for abnormalities, but at that time looked ok, perhaps I should re-check, I have only rotors/pads, and brake lines to my front end, no sensors, nothing that looks look it should transmit any vehicle brake info.
Thank you

 

The sensor in the diff is an o-ring fit and needs a good pull to get it out. With all the dirt and sand, a good blast with your favorite penetrating oil should help. If you unplug it and put a DVM on it, measure the resistance. I can't remember what the value was, but I did that and got an open circuit on the old one. So I replaced it.

I thought after 98, they only used the sensor in the diff for VSS and RWAL with no sensors in the tranny/Tcase???

 

My book calls for 8.0 ohms, did replacing it solve the problem?
And a huge thanks for the tip on it just having an -o- ring in there, that has important value! Will just the sensor pop out or will the entire sensor mounting bracket life out of the pumpkin?
Thanks

 

For me it did. I had the brake/ABS lite come on a long time ago when some gravel ate the plug off on the harness to the sensor. Fixed that then about 3 months later it came on again, checking all the regular stuff for the brakes, I pulled the plug on the sensor and got an open circuit. After the hold down bracket is off, I had to wire brush around it to clean and then hit it with some penetrating oil. Its a tight fit, so I just worked at it and it came out with some prying..

I could only get the sensor from Dodge..All the parts places I went to had it back ordered or N/A. It was cheaper from Dodge anyway.

 

Great,& thanks for the extra info, well that's what I'll be doing the next few days (time permitting) hope this helps anyone else other than me, I will post my results. Oh also, toss in this little gem, hehehe I just realized that I never have had my parking brake light work, never use the dang thing, only found out because of the current light problems, fuses ok may check the switch,
Pappy

 

I'm just going to chime in here also. Mine has been doing the same for about a month. Thanks to all who posted as it lead me to the rear diff sensor, which measured "open". The local Dodge dealer had to order the sensor - $72 + tax.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Glad to see you had some success,, good to know.

 

UPDATE
Woo hoo, ok thanks to all who led me to that pesky VSS, turns out, that was the problem,, found one at the boneyard, out of a 1500, seemed to do the trick, 19 bucks,, not bad now all 3 problems have vanished ABS, speedometer and Brake light all, gone, poofff!
Thanks again,,

 

An update on mine- after replacing the master cylinder, the brake/abs light stayed off until about a week ago. They would come on, but go back off when you shut the engine off and restarted it. Today, they came on and wouldn't go off, even after disconnecting the batteries. I had determined that the back brakes weren't up to snuff, so I bought new shoes, hardware, and cylinders. After replacing both sides, the lights are now off. Time will tell.

 

Wow, and I thought the reason we all work so hard, is so our lights will stay on,
Does all the rear brake work your up, to include any sensors, or the adjustments sensor input data, in other words how does replacing this stuff tell the brain what you've done?
Gal your making some headway

 

It definitely needed the back brake work, although I still had good shoes. The wheel cylinders must have been sticking. The light is staying off. It must have some effect? Regardless, you can't diagnose the abs system unless you know for certain that the brake system itself is in good working order. Therefore, if I still have any issues, it would have to be in the abs computer or the front wheel sensors.

 

Also, having non RWAL front pads on a 4WAL truck will cause the ABS light to come on.