I have read about them but don't know which one to go with. The truck is mainly used as a DD and to pull my work trailers (6X12 enclosed and 16' spray rig). I don't know whether to go with a 4k or 3??? How much more work is it to install the 4 with the springs? Do you benfit much with the 4 or is it mainly for pulling and racing?

 

I assume by saying 4 with springs, you are talking about the valve springs? I have heard from many that it is doable with the head on, but makes life so much easier when the head is off. Many have done it with the head on the truck, but most will tell you that they would rather do it with the head off.

 

For what your doing the 3GSK will be enouugh,the 4 is more for racin & pullin & then you have to change the valve springs too.And unless highly bombed you won't get much power past 3000 rpm anyways.

 

FWIW Most say that the 4k fuels harder even down low. So you could use it and not rev it high. I will prob be upgrading my 3k at some point because of that. If I was starting on a new truck I'd just get 4k from the start. Even if I never used the revs.

Where in OK? I'm in Sapulpa.

 

You could save yourself the 100 bucks and do the free washer mod. A search will give you the details. I did it and it made a big diference. It only took about an hour. Then if you don't like it you can get in your pockets for the 4 k. How is your tranny standing u to your mods? Have you upgraded it? I need to do something with mine.

 

people complain about a "touchy" pedal with the 4k but i like the feel of the pedal personally. it would be harder with a manual but you have an auto so its no big deal (1/2 pedal will get you more than moving). i dont have my valve springs in yet so i just keep the rpms below 3000 but the gsk is a huge difference and makes the truck alot easier to drive. you might want to look into a converter and valve body to hold the power if youre still stock. get a tripple disc to avoid the same mistakes i made when i built my tranny.

 

Nothing comes up with those words, what is this mode, like a 2nd option for a 3k spring?

Thank You.

 

Here is the thread- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=springs

He figured out how to shim the stock springs with washers to get it to fuel higher.

 

Thank You, seems easy to do, why isn't everyone else doing it?

 

I am in Purcell OK, about 30 min. south of OKC. Tranny is holding up ok and is still stock for now. I am pretty easy on it though. I don't want this truck to be real quick, as I have a 500 HP Kenne Belled Ford Lightning in the garage. I just wanted something that didn't feel like a dog (as this truck did stock).

Has anyone had any problems with the free washer mod? I read a post awhile back and people said that you risk the chance of a stuck throttle when you do this. The free mod would be ideal because it sounds like the valve springs would be a pain if I decided to go with the 4K.

 

It can be touchy on some trucks, and many of us had the springs when he figured it out. It is pretty popular.

None of the problems have been serious. Some trucks don't seem to like it, and it can be touchy to adjust. But nothing beyond that that I know of. And Sapulpa is just west of Tulsa.

 

Ill chime in here

i have a four k kit with no springs, and mine revs hard till about 3600 and slowly creeps forward. BUT i dont have the super touchy pedal (or i got used to it) that most ppl complain about. The idle was a PITA for a lil while. I could not get it to stay set. But after my last readjustment i left it as it was... I can bare with not having 4K rpms but a controlable idle..

The 4K IMHO is a give and take much like trying to build a high HP 12V that can run like heck and tow 15K lbs without egt problems... It cannot be done. Primarily why i settled for about s 500 horse truck with about 1000 ft lbs taht can tow and go.... after all with only 16.5 degrees of timing, i need more to rev to 4K.. once i get another ride for a DD and tow rig, ill tear into this one again...

Rick