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100* outside = A/C questions

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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 11:26 PM
  #1  
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From: Celina, TX
100* outside = A/C questions

Been too long since mine has been new...how much air should it be putting out on low speed? When mine is on low, you can barely feel anything at the vents. #2 is a gentle breeze. I usually run around on #3 all the time to keep a good flow. #4 roars and moves air, but #3 is usually the best (sound vs. airflow). I pulled the blower motor tonight and cleaned all the buildup off of it. It spins on all speeds, just really slow on #1. It also stops immediately when you turn the switch to off, no free spin at all.

I'm thinking one of the following...

#1 - blower motor is going bad and getting hard to turn which is decreasing my air flow on lower settings. I saw some posts about replacing the motor restoring flow for a couple of people.
#2 - blower motor resistor going bad and not regulating power correctly
#3 - choked up evap core (I hope not because I don't want to pull the dash) to work on it
#4 - the heat has gone to my head and is making me ask strange questions

Any good diagnosis test for #1-#3 aside from throwing parts at it? I won't even ask for a diagnosis on #4 since I know the spectrum of answers I get.

I figure I have to do something...60* airflow at the panel just doesn't seem to cut it.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 12:48 AM
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Justin, I vote for #4...


Seriously, I also vote #1. Replacing my blower motor did the trick on mine for about $135.00. I don't know what differences there are in the a/c and dash on 2nd gens versus 3rd gens though.

Best of luck getting it sorted out.

..
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 01:46 AM
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for # 3, you can drop the fan motor and see/feel the evap core, if its dirty spray contact cleaner will wash off the dust and oil. restoring airflow at the vents. I paid 60$ ish for a new motor (not direct fit had to use orginal corrector on new motor)
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 05:13 AM
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MY A/C quit working- the fan works, and the light on the a/c switch comes on, but it doesnt sound like the compressor kicked in. Fuse looks good. Any ideas on where to start?
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 06:10 AM
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Contact cleaner to clean out the core? hmmmm truck works great but i have a couple tractors I know need the cores cleaned. I'm gonna try it thanx!


Originally Posted by Nyati1
MY A/C quit working- the fan works, and the light on the a/c switch comes on, but it doesnt sound like the compressor kicked in. Fuse looks good. Any ideas on where to start?
Probably just needs a charge.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnBer
Contact cleaner to clean out the core? hmmmm truck works great but i have a couple tractors I know need the cores cleaned. I'm gonna try it thanx!
.
Just use a low "smell" brake/electrical cleaner as it will stink for a day or two. I did a GM a few yrs a go and the owner drove around with the window open in the winter, but she was happy as it was first time in about 5yrs she had heat!,
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:08 AM
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From: outside of H-town, Tx, thankfully
I've used the product "Simple Green" on evaporators with good luck,,,, plus it's not as harsh on the aluminum, not saying the contact cleaner is, but I'd have to read it pretty close before I used it on aluminum.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:17 AM
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Mine has been doing the exact same thing. I remember using #2 most of the time when the truck was new, but now it seems like I am always on #3...didnt know if it was me or the truck. How easy is the blower motor to replace? I am fine with #3 for now.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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From: Celina, TX
Originally Posted by TexasCTD
Justin, I vote for #4...

Seriously, I also vote #1. Replacing my blower motor did the trick on mine for about $135.00.
I knew there would be votes for option 4. Was the $135 dealer price or aftermarket? I saw the motor through AZ for $45. The resistor block was $68.

Originally Posted by nickg
for # 3, you can drop the fan motor and see/feel the evap core, if its dirty spray contact cleaner will wash off the dust and oil. restoring airflow at the vents. I paid 60$ ish for a new motor (not direct fit had to use orginal corrector on new motor)
Apparently I didn't feel around in there enough. Definitely knew I couldn't get an angle to see anything. I may have to drop the motor again and follow the air path further. Once you start spraying, where is the solution going? I'm assuming out of the drain back to the outside. Now I wish I had used the blower cage as an opportunity to test out some cleaning solutions. I was completely covered so I just tossed it in the sink with hot water and dish soap.

Originally Posted by matthopp
Mine has been doing the exact same thing. I remember using #2 most of the time when the truck was new, but now it seems like I am always on #3...didnt know if it was me or the truck. How easy is the blower motor to replace? I am fine with #3 for now.
The motor is pretty easy. 3 screws and it's down. The front two are pretty easy, but the third is on the back and you have to do it blind with just the right length extension.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AggieJustin
I knew there would be votes for option 4. Was the $135 dealer price or aftermarket? I saw the motor through AZ for $45. The resistor block was $68.



.......................

That was dealer price, at a slight discount from them. I always ask and they usually agree to one of about 10-15 percent. Honestly I didn't shop around, I just wanted a new blower because I was tired of messing with it. There may be better deals in the aftermarket. For me, it was the best $135 I have spent on the truck!

..
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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I removed about 4 hand fulls of leaves and crap from in front of the core. Then sprayed a whole big can of contact cleaner in there, boy did THAT stink!!! Don't be shy and use lots. I bought some vent fresh stuff thats a evaporator cleaner too and sprayed a whole can in there and now it works really well. Just make sure your evaporator drain is open or things can get interesting...
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Looks like I have a new project. Going to pull the blower again, rig up some hose for the shop vac to get in there and help pull debris. Then I'll have to find some good cleaner that doesn't require a flush with a ton of water.

Anything to get some A/C working. Judging by the condition of the blower cage last night, I'm thinking the evap may be a little nasty.

Too bad it's not as easy as the 1st gen method of cutting the hole to get easy access to the face of the evap core.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 06:02 PM
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I'd have to take a look but I bet you could cut a access cover just ahead of the evap core, It is a tight bend to look/feel up in there, but it is do able.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Without having a good measurement, I'd be leery of putting a drill bit or cut into the core and causing myself more trouble.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 06:09 AM
  #15  
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Cool recharge

I bought a recharge kit at autozone.

Should I charge it at the firewall (there is a port there by the evaporator) or using the other port by the condenser (up front)....

Running or not????

Thanks!!!

JD

Originally Posted by JohnBer
Contact cleaner to clean out the core? hmmmm truck works great but i have a couple tractors I know need the cores cleaned. I'm gonna try it thanx!



Probably just needs a charge.
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