Suzuki Samurai vw1.6TD swap
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Okotoks AB
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
need pics
heres mine. no turbo though.................yet i bought it from the original owner. and really 166,000km on the odometer Got the original bill of sale and everything.
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Check your block under the coolant inlet on the head (facing us in the pics)
MF XXXXX... blocks have the oil squirters to cool the pistons.
Typically the NA blocks didn't. Your engine might be new enough to have them anyway.
My previous post has a link to a pretty good VW forum.
At some point I'll want to get rid of some of my turbo parts (since I now have a duplicate engine). I need to determine what I'll have to keep as spares. Let me know if your interested....
MF XXXXX... blocks have the oil squirters to cool the pistons.
Typically the NA blocks didn't. Your engine might be new enough to have them anyway.
My previous post has a link to a pretty good VW forum.
At some point I'll want to get rid of some of my turbo parts (since I now have a duplicate engine). I need to determine what I'll have to keep as spares. Let me know if your interested....
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Okotoks AB
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check your block under the coolant inlet on the head (facing us in the pics)
MF XXXXX... blocks have the oil squirters to cool the pistons.
Typically the NA blocks didn't. Your engine might be new enough to have them anyway.
My previous post has a link to a pretty good VW forum.
At some point I'll want to get rid of some of my turbo parts (since I now have a duplicate engine). I need to determine what I'll have to keep as spares. Let me know if your interested....
MF XXXXX... blocks have the oil squirters to cool the pistons.
Typically the NA blocks didn't. Your engine might be new enough to have them anyway.
My previous post has a link to a pretty good VW forum.
At some point I'll want to get rid of some of my turbo parts (since I now have a duplicate engine). I need to determine what I'll have to keep as spares. Let me know if your interested....
10-4 interested. I'd like to turbo the little thing even if just for the sound let alone the extra 10 horse.
I did brows that VW link there for a bit. I came across that info bit about the oil nozzles, and it sounds like right around '90 is when all the engines started getting them. so mine may or may not I guess. and tooooo cold and dark to look now. but deffinately want to get the turbo parts for it.
#20
Registered User
Wow Luke- looks like you got a real steal. A 2 door too, pretty rare. I just got rid of one just like that- red 2 door. Had almost a half million km on the odometer. Yours almost looks new! Good luck.
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ha ha!
I don't think the diesel is going to make it that much faster!
It would be fun to take it to a dyno day though....
edit:
I actually bought that car the day after I was down there last. Right
place right time and got a good deal on it.
Work has been riding me like a rented mule for the last two weeks. I was supposed to be in Las Vegas this week on a booze cruse (conference) but instead they sent me on a two week road trip upgrading government sites.
Last day here today. Finished up and am on the way home tomorrow. Can't complain too much though. They have put me up in a couple nice hotels and I get a good food allowance
#22
Nice looking swaps, guys.
As an avid off-roader as well as a VW fan, I've been after my buddies with blown V8 or I6 motors in their Jeeps to try a TDI swap. No one seems interested, though. If I needed a new motor in a lightweight package with enough torque to turn my 35s, I'd be looking at a TDI swap. The 1.6 looks promising, too.
Good luck! As for what I know about Samis, Advanced Adapters has some swap info and parts, and SpiderTrax does all things Sami. Again, best of luck with your efforts.
As an avid off-roader as well as a VW fan, I've been after my buddies with blown V8 or I6 motors in their Jeeps to try a TDI swap. No one seems interested, though. If I needed a new motor in a lightweight package with enough torque to turn my 35s, I'd be looking at a TDI swap. The 1.6 looks promising, too.
Good luck! As for what I know about Samis, Advanced Adapters has some swap info and parts, and SpiderTrax does all things Sami. Again, best of luck with your efforts.
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here are a couple more pictures showing the engine in the samurai.
I got the throttle cable and vacuume hose connected today. I am half way through hooking up the exhaust. I think I have to bust out the welder to get a couple different brackets connected. When it was on the other samurai they didn't use the existing hangars. They tacked it up on anything that was handy.
I think I'm going to have to do something with the clutch cable. I may need to fab a new bracket for that. I can see the housing coming up and knocking that off pretty quick.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el041Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el042Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el044Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el047Large.jpg
I got the throttle cable and vacuume hose connected today. I am half way through hooking up the exhaust. I think I have to bust out the welder to get a couple different brackets connected. When it was on the other samurai they didn't use the existing hangars. They tacked it up on anything that was handy.
I think I'm going to have to do something with the clutch cable. I may need to fab a new bracket for that. I can see the housing coming up and knocking that off pretty quick.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el041Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el042Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el044Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el047Large.jpg
#24
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
westcoaster,
The Sami sites talk about needing a 2" lift to clear the pan with the VW diesel. Are you finding enough clearance down there? I went with a set of Old Man Emu springs with 1 1/2" lift and then a set of 1" longer shackles with urethane bushings for another 1/2" Then extended the bump stops with hardwood blocks and added longer shocks from Doesch.
I was wondering if you need to run the exhaust over the tranny like that or could you just drop down from the turbo and head back?
I wonder if there would be any advantage to leaning the engine over a bit to give more diff clearance, help the clutch cable clearance and get the shifter to come up closer to the middle of the hole?
Looks good.
The Sami sites talk about needing a 2" lift to clear the pan with the VW diesel. Are you finding enough clearance down there? I went with a set of Old Man Emu springs with 1 1/2" lift and then a set of 1" longer shackles with urethane bushings for another 1/2" Then extended the bump stops with hardwood blocks and added longer shocks from Doesch.
I was wondering if you need to run the exhaust over the tranny like that or could you just drop down from the turbo and head back?
I wonder if there would be any advantage to leaning the engine over a bit to give more diff clearance, help the clutch cable clearance and get the shifter to come up closer to the middle of the hole?
Looks good.
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
westcoaster,
The Sami sites talk about needing a 2" lift to clear the pan with the VW diesel. Are you finding enough clearance down there? I went with a set of Old Man Emu springs with 1 1/2" lift and then a set of 1" longer shackles with urethane bushings for another 1/2" Then extended the bump stops with hardwood blocks and added longer shocks from Doesch.
I was wondering if you need to run the exhaust over the tranny like that or could you just drop down from the turbo and head back?
I wonder if there would be any advantage to leaning the engine over a bit to give more diff clearance, help the clutch cable clearance and get the shifter to come up closer to the middle of the hole?
Looks good.
The Sami sites talk about needing a 2" lift to clear the pan with the VW diesel. Are you finding enough clearance down there? I went with a set of Old Man Emu springs with 1 1/2" lift and then a set of 1" longer shackles with urethane bushings for another 1/2" Then extended the bump stops with hardwood blocks and added longer shocks from Doesch.
I was wondering if you need to run the exhaust over the tranny like that or could you just drop down from the turbo and head back?
I wonder if there would be any advantage to leaning the engine over a bit to give more diff clearance, help the clutch cable clearance and get the shifter to come up closer to the middle of the hole?
Looks good.
As it sits now, if I simply bounce the front end up and down I can pretty much hit the clutch cable on the axle housing.
Acme has said one can shim the passenger side bracket 1/4" to bring the shifter hole back in line. I will also give that a shot as well.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mounted the diesel fuel filter in the engine bay, removed the gas fuel filter from inside the frame rail and replaced with a straight piece of hose.
That was the easy part...
I then had to drop the rear tank to get my hand in to modify the hose routing for the fuel return. Samurai has three steel hoses running from the tank to the engine bay.
Large hose for fuel feed.
Small hose for fuel return
Medium hose for gas vapor to the charcoal canister (emissions)
I abandon the small hose (block it off so no water gets in) I'll do this in the engine bay.
Inside the cabin behind a tin plate sits the filler hose and a plastic tank. I disconnect the hoses from the plastic tank and run them straight into the main fuel tank. The medium hose will now be my fuel return.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el060Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el061Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el064Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el065Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el066Large.jpg
That was the easy part...
I then had to drop the rear tank to get my hand in to modify the hose routing for the fuel return. Samurai has three steel hoses running from the tank to the engine bay.
Large hose for fuel feed.
Small hose for fuel return
Medium hose for gas vapor to the charcoal canister (emissions)
I abandon the small hose (block it off so no water gets in) I'll do this in the engine bay.
Inside the cabin behind a tin plate sits the filler hose and a plastic tank. I disconnect the hoses from the plastic tank and run them straight into the main fuel tank. The medium hose will now be my fuel return.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el060Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el061Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el064Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el065Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el066Large.jpg
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Been a little slow adding pics lately....
Fixed up the clutch cable bracket...
Before:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el047Large.jpg
after:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el072Large.jpg
Got my hoses squared away....
used the same hose for the middle outlet on the water pump as is used on the back of the head and into a copper "T". From there it has a short straight section. is spliced with 1/2" copper pipe to a stock '87 jetta lower oil cooler hose. This twists under, back and around beside the motor mount. Up to the heater core I used dayco 80395 coolant hose straight with a 90* at one end.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el067Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el068Large.jpg
The fancy air trap with the copper 90* is intended to clear the exhaust. Whatever, I'll try this first and modify if necessary....
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el070Large.jpg
Also working on the wiring.
I managed to aquire a green male two prong samurai connector and wired the fuel on/off solenoid into the samurai distributor connector. (white female plug) I'll wire the switched ignition part of the glow plug relay into the black coil connector when I find another male connector.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el069Large.jpg
Being an american '87 with the feedback carb I get this pile of wires coming out the firewall on the passenger side. I'll wire the glow plug relay in through here....
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el071Large.jpg
Fixed up the clutch cable bracket...
Before:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el047Large.jpg
after:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el072Large.jpg
Got my hoses squared away....
used the same hose for the middle outlet on the water pump as is used on the back of the head and into a copper "T". From there it has a short straight section. is spliced with 1/2" copper pipe to a stock '87 jetta lower oil cooler hose. This twists under, back and around beside the motor mount. Up to the heater core I used dayco 80395 coolant hose straight with a 90* at one end.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el067Large.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el068Large.jpg
The fancy air trap with the copper 90* is intended to clear the exhaust. Whatever, I'll try this first and modify if necessary....
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el070Large.jpg
Also working on the wiring.
I managed to aquire a green male two prong samurai connector and wired the fuel on/off solenoid into the samurai distributor connector. (white female plug) I'll wire the switched ignition part of the glow plug relay into the black coil connector when I find another male connector.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el069Large.jpg
Being an american '87 with the feedback carb I get this pile of wires coming out the firewall on the passenger side. I'll wire the glow plug relay in through here....
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...el071Large.jpg
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ding!
Stick a fork in it. It's done....
Dang block is cracked..... I didn't even get to run half a tank through before I had to park it.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ut148Large.jpg
((picture of cracked engine block deleted from Photobucket))
I had problems with it dribbling coolant I figured it was a headgasket. Replaced the gasket and filled with coolant only to find it still dribbling.
Tore into it again and discovered the crack. Ground the crack out and filled with JB weld.... If that holds Iwill be surprised.
$1500 I take this motor out, run it in to Gordon's VW and they will return a running motor to me (pistons, valves, head and block) They'll reuse my IP and turbo. At this point I'm getting tired of fooling with junk. I'll take the kick and just get it done.
Stick a fork in it. It's done....
Dang block is cracked..... I didn't even get to run half a tank through before I had to park it.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ut148Large.jpg
((picture of cracked engine block deleted from Photobucket))
I had problems with it dribbling coolant I figured it was a headgasket. Replaced the gasket and filled with coolant only to find it still dribbling.
Tore into it again and discovered the crack. Ground the crack out and filled with JB weld.... If that holds Iwill be surprised.
$1500 I take this motor out, run it in to Gordon's VW and they will return a running motor to me (pistons, valves, head and block) They'll reuse my IP and turbo. At this point I'm getting tired of fooling with junk. I'll take the kick and just get it done.