Busboy

When I installed my Reese class5 hitch I was asked to take some phots when I did my sons. He has been out of town and unable to do it until now. So here's some photos.
First one shows the hitch with the box already lifted and 3 inches of wood supporting it.



The second shows the hitch being rotated out, notice how little space there is.




Third hitch removed.



Fourth, using a small loader to lift the heavy Reese into position and hold it there.



Fifth the beefy hitch installed without the bumper which bolts to the hitch.



We also did a B&W goosneck hitch at the same time and because the bed was lifted we didn't have to cut the box to get the cross members in. Also having the bumper and factory hitch removed helped with access for the B&W.

New2Diesel

What additional capability does this hitch give over the stock one?

Busboy

The stock one is good for 500/5000lbs this one is good for 2000/18000lbs both "weight carrying". You can't pull hardly anything using the factory hitch unless you go up to a WD hitch and that gives 1000/10000lbs but no one uses a WD hitch with a work trailer so 500/5000lbs is it. The Reese is good for 2500/18000lbs WD.

Blake Clark

Nice.

I dont ever tow that heavy on the receiver though, got the gooseneck for that.

New2Diesel

Darn, I thought I could pull more than that on my stock hitch. Rephrase, I did pull more than that on my stock hitch. Guess I gotta stop.

How long was the process for your hitch installation? Direct bolt in, or was modification required?

JAM

How can they post this for the 2500 on their website? I purchased the heavy duty class IV towing package with my truck...and you are saying i can only tow 5000lb? I have towed over 10K many times?

Towing[1]:
15,450 lbs - max
Payload[1]:
2580 lbs - max

Purplezr2

Quessing it says something like"when properly equipped"

JAM

WITH WHAT? If a hitch is going to fail, I rather it be factory installed then after market when it comes to any legal issues.

I also believe the DVD shows this payload capacity with the class IV hitch from the factory.

Busboy

As we did the B&W goosneck hitch at the same time it's hard to say and this was the second one I had done as I did mine first. I would say it could be done in an hour.
The hitch is a direct bolt in but one hole each side in the bottom of the frame rail has to be drilled. The 6 factory bolts are reused with new nuts and 4 new bolts are added at the front of the hitch.

The little sticker on the hitch tells the real story. It's a shame they didn't spend a little more money and install a real hitch we would all have paid for a good factory one.

New2Diesel

Thanks for the guidance, I will update mine ASAP

kry226

My assumption is that you had to cut the OEM hitch out like on the 3rd Gens, correct?

JAM

Guys, I'm just trying to learn a few things here and not spend extra money if I don’t have to. Look at the below pic, there is a 1000 stamped into the receiver, why is this? Could it be because it's a 1000# tongue weight?

My hitch doesn’t have a small little sticker saying 500/5000 anywhere. It’s bolted to the frame on both sides with 3 very long bolts and also to the bumper.

Is it remotely possible my 2011 2500 HEAVY DUTY 6.7 didn’t come with a 500/5000 receiver?

burlhall

Just curious, does Ford and GM use hitches with the same weight ratings as Dodge?

Busboy

No cutting involved the hitch is just bolted in with 3 bolts either side. It is located on 2 pins and has to be rotated upwards that's why you have to raise the back of the box.

I still have the hitch I removed from my truck, there is no stamping on it.

kry226

Awesome, thanks.