Mr_Stone1146

I have been a lurker here for a little bit as I contemplated purchasing a new to me truck. Having finally decided to buy a "newer" rig for the upgraded electronics, and especially the exhaust brake I have run into the common devil to the the 6.7 L motors, the emissions systems
To date I have had to purchase a new turbo, due to very severe soot fouling, and a chipped compressor vane (I don't have a clue how that happened, but hey it had to go due to soot). After the new turbo I am now getting P0489 intermittently, P200C, and P1451; additionally when the truck is slightly cold (155F) if I step on the throttle kind of hard the truck bogs down and fails to pick up and run . I know that P0489 is the EGR valve sticking, and that P200C is DPF overheat, and P1451 is basically a failed regen code; my issue is that I am planning on deleting the truck and that I would loathe putting money into fixing all of these issues just to then not use the equipment. As a note to the cold bogging down, the truck does not do this when the truck is hot and at the normal operating temperature, it runs like a beast, and appears to have no issues rocking 2,700lbs in the bed with air ride .
Here are the brass tacks:
In your opinion is this truck safe to drive to Vegas (it wont leave me stranded)?
Should I fix the truck to stock 100%, just to ensure there are no problems, or because the issues are with systems I plan to essentially remove am I ok to go?
I want to delete the truck, I want to do so as soon and as easily as I can, my desire when the truck is deleted is not to add power but to increase mileage and longevity of motor components.
I need to know if it is possible to run a 4" straight pipe turbo back, with disabling the EGR equipment by unplugging the system, with the Smarty-Jr (I know I will need the ME files, and I don't have those as of right now).
Thanks much with the help.

mega-engr

I would definitely fix the stock equipment before it kills another turbo or worse. However, if you're willing to delete and don't need to return it to stock to pass emissions tests, then by all means move forward soon as possible with the deletes. Seems risky to hope it won't go into limp mode at some point.
I did the deletes for the same reasons you've mentioned. I believe it is possible to run a straight pipe, but not sure of the sound results and possible drone. If you keep the resonator at the end this may be fine. Others here have more experience with the sound result.

Mr_Stone1146

Thank you for the reply. I have new information as of this mornings drive to work.
When the truck is not running at operational temperature and the throttle is stepped on there is smoke from the exhaust as the truck bogs down and fails to snap to acceleration. When the truck got hot however, there was no smoke and no bogging or acceleration problems.
Currently there are no codes, and full millage is down about 3 mpg from where it had been. I have a sneaking suspicion that the DPF is cracked, and that the EGR is stuck and failing to close and open appropriately.
If I am thinking correctly the repair would be to replace the DPF, and a full cleaning of the EGR cooler, EGR valve, replace the CCV Filter, and to check the status of the trubo via inspection. I hope that is right.
On the mater of the deletes, I need to smog the truck but am willing to install the stock exhaust for testing once every year and then return an alternative deleted exhaust. It is possible for me to simply install a straight pipe to the muffler via the flanges on the muffle piece meant for the DPF. I just want to make sure that the Smarty-Jr is capable of running the truck correctly with the DPF gone.

mega-engr

Yes, as long as you have the version of the Smarty Jr. that can accept the ME files then you are good to go. It has full delete capability.
This is exactly what I do. Bolt on/off the emissions when needed to pass tests only. A bit of a pain, but worth it.
What you've listed as items to clean, repair, replace, all sound correct as you definitely seem to have EGR system issues.

Mr_Stone1146

How do I ensure that I have the correct version? I am assuming that if I purchase a new Smarty-Jr unit from an online store I wont get the correct version.

Also if I just do the deletes will the problem be solved for the short term? I understand that long term when I return the truck to stock for inspection I will need to have the items repaired.

Also thank you so much for the help. Ironically you and your delete style is what convinced me to actually by this rig and do the deletes.

mega-engr

No problem! I was lucky enough to learn early and do the deletes to save my stock equipment for its only purpose which is to pass insepctions lol. Yes, you have to get a certain programmer unit with a serial number that will allow the delete tunes. They cracked down and the later ones (think have a US in the serial number) are not delete capable. There are several threads and people on here, like XCC rider, and such that have a lot of this information and links to the programs.
Yes, I would say that doing the deletes you would definitely be good for the short term or as long as you can keep deleted. It is just a matter of reverting back and passing inspections where you will have to struggle again.

xcc_rider

First off like ME said if the tuner has "US" in the serial number it will not load a delete tune
If it has "P" or "A" in the serial number it will load both delete tuning and emissions legal tuning so you can do both if you like.

DO NOT download any tuning from Mads website. All tuning on there is emissions legal and will not allow deletes.
Go here: Links to FREE Smarty Tunes - Click Here - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum for links to delete tuning.

One more concern is if it's vin locked to another vehicle. When you plug it into the obd port it will briefly show Smarty or #Smarty#. If it shows #Smarty# then it's vin locked to another ecm and will not communicate with your ecm so it won't load a tune on it either.

If this is the case then pm me and I may have a solution for you.

The absolute first thing I'd do is unplug the egr, remove the egr actuator and move the egr piston in and out to make sure it's not sticking and finally to make sure it's fully seated in the closed position. Put the actuator back on and leave it unplugged.
You'll get a p0405 code but no biggie cause it will stay closed and stop douching your dpf and turbo with soot. Now you've isolated the egr from the equation and you'll be able to trouble shoot without it messing things up.

Your dpf is cracked which is why you're seeing soot out the exhaust. If you get the dpf to regen and have no other codes other than P0405 then you should be OK for smog testing with it cracked. (Mine passed cracked). You can confirm it by checking the I\M's with a code reader.

If all good then go ahead and delete and do the egr valve cleaning later.

Who replaced the turbo and was it a factory turbo or aftermarket rebuild?