BatocheBob

I'm a bit of a novice at this. I looked through some of the previous threads about this code.

I have the code on my 2008 Ram 2500 6.7L. Dealer is suggesting a $6-7K Turbo replacement, something I can't afford.

A) what are the risks of driving with this code?
B) is there any merit to driving a 100km or more at highway speed with the engine retarder on?
C) is an Autel AL319 a suitable tool to monitor this code and will it let me delete the code?
D) what is the effect of deleting the code.
E) any other suggestions as to what I can do besides win the lottery

This old farmer will appreciate any info you can offer. Thanks

johnh

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-right-273345/

BatocheBob

John,

Thanks for the information. As interesting and promising as that info is, Like I said, I am a novice at this and not in a position to entertain modifications to the exhaust system. If i were younger and used my truck more the benefits of these modifications would be tempting. I am looking for the simplest and cost effective fix. Again thanks.

BigIron70

This code usually only requires a turbo cleaning not a turbo replacement. The turbo cleaning only takes 1 hour and other then the cleaning solution and a turbo plug if needed is the only part required Some shops are only out to make big profits and not to save you money, sad but true. The cleaning could take up to 3 cans of cleaning solution if the turbo is extremely sooted up. Read the diagnostics and cleaning procedure. I would have it done before you go on your trip. If the turbo actuator fails it will cause lack of power or no start condition.
Good Luck
Bill

BatocheBob

Bill (Big Iron)

I appreciate your reply and the very helpful info. I just glanced at the cleaning guide. The illustrations are a bit on the light side but it should allow me to proceed. I had to wonder if a good cleaning would fix things; I'll read through your document more thouroughly and give it a try. Since you are classed as a 'Cummins Guru' late me try a thought on you. My truck is almost 9 years old but only hass 144K and I wonder if that might be part of my problem; the truck doesn't get used that much. I just did the brakes for the first time last month and they had to replace the back calipers because they were seized, probably form sitting all winter. And I wonder if the engine should see more work to keep it running well. Often when I use the truck it will be a highway trip but only an hour each way and then it sits again. Anyways, again thanks for your good info. I'll post my results when I have them. Bob:-)

BigIron70

You might want to start using your exhaust brake all the time, doing so allows the sliding nozzle to go thru its complete travel every time you are slowing down. This prevents the soot from getting a chance to build up causing you turbo problems. Also you might want to enable your idle up feature, good to use when you plan to idle engine for extended periods. Make sure if you try cleaning yourself to use only turbo cleaning fluid (in the can) not the plastic bottle. That is used only for cleaning EGR valve and EGR cooler. If your turbo does not have a cleaning port then you will not be able to clean it. The turbo will need to be drilled and tapped for plug. Special tool is required, most dealerships that specialize in diesel repair will have the tool. Warning if you drill into turbo you can damage the nozzle unless you use the tool and follow the directions exactly. Forewarned.
The tool is pricey but you can always resell on Ebay, still cheaper then a new turbo.
The drill and tap are only required if turbo is not drilled with a cleaning port.
tools required
10142 Cummins Turbo Cleaning Kit

Turbo Drilling Kit 10143

BatocheBob

Bill,

Thanks for the encouragement. I'll have to get out and have a look to see if I have a cleaning port. If so that should hopefully make it a simple DIY project.

Re. your comment that the dealers are looking to make money; that is a skepticism I share and leaves me wondering. The service rep gave me the same document you provided me outlining the protocol for handling a P2563 code. According to them the scanner indicated the turbo did not need cleaning which therefore suggests a turbo replacement. I mentioned that I just replaced the original brakes. I attribute the long brake life to the fact I regularly use the engine retarder and down shift when I come to a stop at higher speeds (50-60km/h+). I will make it a habit of doing this even more but can the scanner actually tell that the turbo is clean? I will look further into doing a cleaning anyways and find another shop to re-run the scan. Again thanks

BigIron70

I did find this which confirms their diagnostic tests. But like I said I have cleaned them before with that code but advise customer if code returns and is active turbo will need to be replaced. Some people like me do not have the 6K to shell out for a reman turbo.
New DTC added for P2563 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor
Performance. This DTC indicates diminished variable geometry turbocharger travel,
which is resolved by replacing the turbocharger. Diagnosis and repair procedures for
the DTC have been published in DTC-Based Diagnostics in TechConnect.

BatocheBob

Bill,

Thanks for your latest post. Funny thing about that post, the first time I read it there were two images attached. When I logged in to reply those images were gone. Good thing I did catch those two images. I had looked at those Autel Scanners and if you say it will detect codes like the p2563 it might be a good investment. Even though I may not actually know much about fixing the system I am always interested in monitoring whatever info I can. This is true whether you are talking about my geothermal heating system or my truck. I downloaded the manual for the AL519 and will study it a bit before committing. Again thanks.

BatocheBob

Bill,

I've been reviewing your last post again. Because I initially saw the two graphics I assumed the Autel ads were what you found. On reading again I note your reference to the P2563 code. Regarding the cleaning I realize that you need a cleaning kit which contains the nozzle, hose etc. It appears they are worth around $300 USD. Also is the cleaning port standard on factory turbos or something that is added at the first cleaning?

HMX-1

I'm in the same boat with my '08.

The dealer is trying to rob you blind ..... my dealer is quoting me $4100 ($3700-ish for the turbo and $400-ish for the install), which is about right when comparing aftermarket parts or sources other than the dealer.

Deletes aren't that hard to do ... you simply unbolt the problem parts, and bolt in the "new" parts. You won't need more than basic hand tools you can get from Sears.

I know the "Delete" thread is a long bit of reading, but please, take some time and read it. There is a TON of really good information in there, and some of it has been simplified.

If you have questions, please ask. Everyone here is happy to help.



-Kris

BatocheBob

Kris,

Thanks for your reply. It is a lot of money and you would expect a significant part like that to last more than 8 years. I have come to realize that recirculating the exhaust, while good for the environment, creates a whole lot of other problems. Had I realized this I may have considered a delete kit earlier in the life of the truck, especially considering that after the first few years the truck no longer saw a lot of use, even sitting idle for weeks at a time.

I also have some conflicting info on the fix. Some folks have suggested cleaning might be the solution while others have suggested cleaning is a waste of time. I'm inclined to lean towards cleaning although the Dodge protocol would cost almost as much as a new turbo given there does not appear to be a cleaning port on my turbo. I have found a friend who claims he can get me a new OEM turbo for around $1800. I have also found a couple of turbo cleaning products that I think I will consider (Revive & Forte). I will read through the thread you referenced and maybe yet consider an EGR Delete. I'm too old and poor to consider a new truck if I can help it. Again thanks.

xcc_rider

You can also check AutoZone or O'REILLY'S for a reman unit. One of them (sorry I can't remember which) has one for $1200 with a 3 year warranty

BatocheBob

re. You can also check AutoZone or O'REILLY'S
Thanks for the lead on turbo replacement. Keep in mind I am in Canada and I don't think we have those outlets but it was a good thought.

BigIron70

Bob, if your turbo doesn't have a cleaning port then it will need to be drilled and tapped.
I have done many of them but without the special tools it cannot be done without possible damage to turbo. After you cleared code did it return? Have you ever had the ECM updated with latest flash? It usually takes 2 hours to drill and tap and run the cleaner into the turbo, usually $250.00 + cleaner. Replacement turbo does come with the cleaning port already in turbo. Usually $400 labor to replace turbo. The cleaning procedure will not run unless code is stored and the computer test states cleaning is required. The cleaning procedure will run 3 times before it fails the turbo. If cleaning did not fix the turbo sticking condition then turbo replacement is necessary. When the 6.7 diesels first came out the only way to clean turbo was key on and key off. This caused the actuator to work and was the only way to actuate the turbo for cleaning. With the new programing and diagnostic support from Chrysler it makes it much easier to do and takes out the guess work. The late model trucks also allow replacement of the actuator, yours does not however. When the 6.7 first came out I was replacing several turbo a week, Actually put my back out because I was changing so many.
Idling too long and not using the exhaust brake is the main turbo killer. Short runs also isn't good for turbo, never gets hot enough to burn off the soot.