Rear axle seal
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington State
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear axle seal
I'm needing a new rear axle drivers side seal. I have oil in my brake drum and I don't think its brake fluid. Anyone have any tips on this job, or a link that can help? Do I need a 2 9/16" socket to get the hub off?
#2
Registered User
You need the special rounded edge 2 9/16 socket, no way around it.
They don't cost all that much from the auto parts.
You also need the pound in nut keepers, less than a buck.
I've been given the wrong seal at the auto parts but found they can easily figure out the correct seal if you bring in the brake drum.
The job is really easy and self evident once you get into it.
Just some tips,
If you can't get the drums off jackstand both wheels off the ground, tires and all lug nuts removed except one nut loosely, start the engine drop it into gear with some rpm and slam on the brakes. Forward and reverse if need be.
Jack the side you're working on high so that fluid flows to the other side.
Check the part of the axle for a ridge that catches your fingernail when drug over the part where the seal rides.
If it has a notch worn in it it will leak again. Solution is to install the new seal a little deeper or shallower.
Coat the outer edge of the new seal with RTV before installing to assure no leaks.
If your brake shoes are oil soaked they will be impossible to clean and should be replaced.
On a 1 -10 scale of difficultly with 10 being the hardest I would give it a 2.
They don't cost all that much from the auto parts.
You also need the pound in nut keepers, less than a buck.
I've been given the wrong seal at the auto parts but found they can easily figure out the correct seal if you bring in the brake drum.
The job is really easy and self evident once you get into it.
Just some tips,
If you can't get the drums off jackstand both wheels off the ground, tires and all lug nuts removed except one nut loosely, start the engine drop it into gear with some rpm and slam on the brakes. Forward and reverse if need be.
Jack the side you're working on high so that fluid flows to the other side.
Check the part of the axle for a ridge that catches your fingernail when drug over the part where the seal rides.
If it has a notch worn in it it will leak again. Solution is to install the new seal a little deeper or shallower.
Coat the outer edge of the new seal with RTV before installing to assure no leaks.
If your brake shoes are oil soaked they will be impossible to clean and should be replaced.
On a 1 -10 scale of difficultly with 10 being the hardest I would give it a 2.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 7,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If that doesn't do it, loosen off the brake shoes. When I did the brakes on my dually years ago, the drums were well worn past the service limit, had a large lip on the edge and the shoes wouldn't pass over it. Backed the shoes off and the drum slid right off.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington State
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, picked up the socket at Napa today. 9 bucks, not bad.
The guy at Napa gave me a blank stare when I asked him if he had the keeper for the axle nut. Anyone have a pic of it?
I read different things about the torque specs. 150 ft lbs. and back off a 1/4 turn? Does that sound correct?
Do I need a gasket when I put the axle shaft back in?
Sorry about all the questions but I want to make sure I do this right
The guy at Napa gave me a blank stare when I asked him if he had the keeper for the axle nut. Anyone have a pic of it?
I read different things about the torque specs. 150 ft lbs. and back off a 1/4 turn? Does that sound correct?
Do I need a gasket when I put the axle shaft back in?
Sorry about all the questions but I want to make sure I do this right
#5
Registered User
At my Napa the keepers are listed as a Ford part.
I always use RTV in place of the gasket.
Pretty nice how to google found me> http://www.saoffroad.com/forums/tech...hange-out.html
This is for a Dana 80 with disc brakes but the basics are the same.
Keeper
I always use RTV in place of the gasket.
Pretty nice how to google found me> http://www.saoffroad.com/forums/tech...hange-out.html
This is for a Dana 80 with disc brakes but the basics are the same.
Keeper
#6
Registered User
Don't forget to put that one nut back on before you step on the gas pedal... it's amazing just how much damage one of these big brake drums can do when they fly off and zoom around bouncing off things at about 30 mph... luckily it wasn't my garage!
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
#10
But the dealership does stock these keepers..
#11
Registered User
I paid $1.99 for a pack of four at Napa.
Considering what they are even that's a ripoff.
Most times they are reusable but it's best to have a new one on hand just in case.
Considering what they are even that's a ripoff.
Most times they are reusable but it's best to have a new one on hand just in case.
#12
Cummins Guru
I usually replace the nut on these also, you think the little yellow clip is expensive. The locking type nut is $50 each, If you can screw the nut on easily with your fingers and there is a deep grove worn into nut it's time for a new one. If you don't the left side wheel will be the first to separate from your truck. I have seen this happen several times because someone was trying to save a buck. Don't forget to pack bearings or pre oil with gear oil and fill cavity in hub with gear oil also. Back nut off slightly to relieve preload until wheel spins easily about 1/8 of a turn and don't forget the lock clip.
#13
Its the same for the main nut for the Dana 80...Dealer wanted $75 each..The jobber wanted $65 each...Got them from the Dana supplier....$10..each
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Fremont, OH/Newport News, VA
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow, i thought the front axle nuts was bad, it cost me like 27 bucks.
another tip is take some fine emery cloth and clean up where the seal rides real well, if there is any gunk, or a burr or anything itll eat thru that new seal in no time. I too, like mentioned, put a nice coat of RTV on the shaft instead of a seal. And permatex the outside edge of the seal to seal it up to the hub.
another tip is take some fine emery cloth and clean up where the seal rides real well, if there is any gunk, or a burr or anything itll eat thru that new seal in no time. I too, like mentioned, put a nice coat of RTV on the shaft instead of a seal. And permatex the outside edge of the seal to seal it up to the hub.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington State
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found a keeper at NAPA but its a different size then the one in my truck. Anyone know the torque on the spindle nut, and the 8 bolts for the axle? Can't find it on my CD service manual.