cougar

Due to a lack of options, I'm having to venture deeper into unknown territory. ie. 2nd gen 24 valvers. I need a truck soon.
Hoo can school me on what to look for and what to run away from screaming in terror?

SIXSLUG

To save a lot of typing, you can search this topic and get a load of info. Not much has changed regarding what to lookout for in a 2nd gen 24v...

cougar

The infamous "53" block and the moody VP44 I know about. Electrical is kind of a given with an older vehicle. Saw some good troubleshooting catches there.
I know a test drive will reveal a lot, but anything suspension wise to pay close attention to?
What about hiding body and frame issues?
There a few 98.5-01s locally available.

Tallguy67

Hey Cougar,
Good to see you out of the breakroom. As you said, you already know about the VP44 and 53 blocks. The other things we seem to kibbitz about are:

Get a good aftermarket LP so you keep the VP44 well fed
The front suspension on the second gens is not great. As parts start to wear they rapidly deteriorate the ball-joints, steering box and track-bar. To really fix the problem you have to go to a slightly different style of steering that will set you back about $2k once you repace the steering bars, ball joints etc.
The other common gripe is that the stock headlights are only slightly brighter and more effective than a votive candle. Seeing as you live somewhere that has a lot of dark in the winter months, if you get a truck that doesn't have the sport headlights, expect to be ordering a headlight upgrade from David Stern.

On a good note, it is super easy to boost the power of your engine with easy to add power boxes.

pwregan

Cougar,
If buying a second gen- go for 2001.5-2002 as they had 4 wheel disc brakes and the front rotors are outbound of the wheel bearing assembly- my 1999 had the rotors inbound and had to remove entire wheel bearing/hub to gain access to rotors- not sure I am explaining it properly- but it was a pita to get at the rotors on earlier second gens. Front end and vp44 as everyone else stated, although a vp44 is pretty easy to remove and replace.
My second gen was a reliable truck and if not for rust I would still be driving it- good luck!

cougar

Thanks for the tip PW. Everyone's advise came in handy last night as I checked out a 2000. For the price I was expecting better. Rust, body damage, I won't try to describe the interior. The truck was bone stock with 145K miles, the steering and suspension were tight, but the power was on par with my stock 92. No gauges. I walked.

SIXSLUG

Something I would also recommend is patience while searching. You don't want to end up with someone else's garbage at a premium price...

The front end, auto trans, a clutch, brakes, body damage, tires, windshield, rust, any item that can give you leverage in getting a better deal.

Higher mileage should be expected but isn't usually an issue if proof of maintenance can be provided. My truck has close to 140K but still looks new thanks to running boards and bug deflectors that have helped stave off rust and paint chips...

Alaska can be brutal on vehicles, really check out what's available to cover your butt so you don't get a turd.

cougar

That's why I'm asking questions. I'm very familiar with 1st gens, kinda 2nd gen 12V, but nothing about the 24V other than what I'm reading. Oddly, higher mileage doesn't worry me as much as low mileage. My 92 was one of those low mileage "polished turds". I'm not eager for a repeat. I've been looking sense September when there were a lot of trucks out here for sale, but thanks to the insurance company I had no money. Now that they finally paid up the pool dried up. How did they know?

Justwannabeme

good luck, coug! try craigslist or some stores around you (post noting sales on community boards)

ditto on making the right one for the limited money. hey if it rains enough, you can paddle to work, right?

Tallguy67

PW - I think it has to do with being a transition time but my truck is a 2000 and it has 4 wheel disc brakes and 4 wheel ABS. A few people have said I was sniffing some kind of substance until I sent them a picture of it.

cougar

I may have scored! Craigslist ads not allowed on DTR A company truck that has been meticulously maintained. It does have rear disc. NO RUST, CLEAN INTERIOR. NO 53 BLOCK. Spent 30 minutes under it in their maintenance shop. Negotiating a price now.

madhat

What is your price range?

pwregan

Cougar,
you should look on craigslist in the California/west coast area.
The no rust issue is worth paying extra for and shipping should be reasonable.
I just had a truck shipped to me from Texas and you could eat off the undercarriage.
Washington State has a lot of good quality trucks as well- due to the fact that they do not use salt on the roads in winter.
adhunter is a good tool for searching craigslist- good second gens are out there- hold out til you find exactly the one you want.
Good luck!

SIXSLUG

I have read on here that more than one member has rear discs on a 2000. My truck is a end of the year 2001.5 and has all the deleled items from previous years to reduce cost...no rear cupholders, two piece door trim, no lighted ignition switch ring, no tailgate cladding....

Sounds like you may have found a nice one, Coug! Good luck with it!!

missouriman

check codes, check the plastic transmission line holders under the block. They can break letting your transmission lines to rub on the frame under the motor to wear through and cost you 3000.00. (happened to me). check the fuel filter cap and see if it has ever been changed. Check the rear pinion and see if it is loose or leaking. (500.00 from a friend that owns a shop). check the dates on the batteries. they are now 200 each. Check the hole on the tow bar to see how worn it is. also for sure check to make sure the ac and the heater works. I just found out the blend doors break, as do the defrost, heat, cool, and selection.

http://www.heatertreater.net/magento...ram-02-08.html

on the test drive just ride the brakes a little bit and see if you get a pulse back through the peddle, warped rotors.

make sure that the over drive off works. you will see it rev up about 1000 rpm.

of course make sure 4 wheel drive works.. don't do this on pavement but maybe a gravel area. put it in 4 wheel drive, make sure the lights come on and turn, you should feel it bind up.. stop. take it out of 4 wheel drive and back up to release the binding.

check the weep hole on the water pump. see if there is any shait built up around it..

depending on the mileage the front of the motor, the front diff will be covered in old oil that is where the motor vent is. If it is bad, have a flash light with you and make sure that the back of the radiator is not plugged with oil.
while you are there inspect the boots that go to the inter cooler for rips, tears, cracks.

mine is a 2002 with 200,000 on it when I bought it.