hallio217

Installing a fuel pressure gauge is on my priority list so that I can better monitor my fuel pressure and not cook my new VP44.

Any good recommendations? Mechanical or electrical?
What does the $260 one offer over the $60 one?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0529&ppt=C0134

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0529&ppt=C0134

DIESELWRKS

IMO I would get a mechanical. between the Fuel filter housing and the VP tap into that hose with a T. so you are getting reading right before it hits the VP. Also run a Fuel Pressure Snubber / Restrictor before the fuel pressure gauge. This will protect your fuel pressure gauge from the High pressure spikes during start up etc. also this will stop from any fuel ever being exposed to inside the cab if there was a burst.

I personally run a needle valve to a pressure snubber/diaphram style and then to the fuel pressure gauge. so between the diaphram and fuel pressure gauge I put pure silicone fluid in the line vise having a open system with fuel going to the pressure gauge. I have blown 2 pricey fuel pressure gauges in past before I listened to others and did this system. I have never used a electrical gauge.

I didn't see any in the online store in DTR. doesn't mean that could not get them or dont have them but here is a style of isolator/diaphram

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fue...ator-p/fpi.htm


I'm sure you know what a brass needle valve looks like.

carl48

get a BF-LONG-TAPPED banjo bolt from genosgarage.com for $7 a copper line oil pressure gauge installation kit from autozone for $11 and a 0-30 psi glycerin filled gauge from ww granger for $15 mount it by the shifter on the floor

Jbremount

It's cheaper to get the kit.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ISS...Kit-p/evfp.htm

and the needle valve
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bra...alve-p/bnv.htm

hallio217

Simple, cheap and effective. Thank you!

HOHN

Copper is a no-no in a diesel fuel system.

It is a chemical catalyst that can cause problems with injector deposits and filter plugging if used in the main supply system. Cummins engineering standards do not allow brass or copper in the fuel system plumbing for this reason.

That said, I suspect that there's very little actual FLOW that goes through the copper of a guage. It tends to deadhead and the amount of copper that the engine actually ingests is very small.

SIXSLUG

I'd also be wary of running a fuel line onto the cab...

mariner

I used a small copper line for a lube oil pressure gauge on my old F250 - installed over 20 years ago and absolutely no problems. yes, the fluid (oil, fuel etc.) is deadheaded.
For my fuel pressure gauge I used a 0 - 30 psi Isspro gauge. I installed a needle valve on the VP pump at the shraeder port (replaced banjo bolt) and the connected up an isolator to the fuel line. The outlet side of the isolator runs to the truck cab and is filled with antifreeze mixture.
Works well and I have had no problems so far. My lift pump is the Raptor replacement pump (100 gph unit) and is set for 18psi idle - 15 psi at steady 60 mph (100kph).
So far all looks good. A great pity I did not install the fuel pressure gauge long ago when I bought the truck new. I have just recently had to replaces the VP44 pump after 100,00 kilomters or 60,000 miles. Expensive lesson learned at $2,000 - ouch.

HOHN

A note on "isolators":

Generally these use a diaphragm to transfer pressure from the fuel to another fluid (usually coolant).

Unfortunately, the majority of these diaphragms are not robust against diesel fuel, and eventually you will have fuel into the cab (and coolant into the VP!).

The best way to "isolate" the pressure signal to the guage is to have a restriction into an expansion tank/accumulator of some sort on the way to the gauge.


I've been running fuel into my cab since 2004. The only time I had a problem was when I plumbed it with plastic tubing at first. Since I've used grease gun hose to the guage, I've had no problems.

I'm about due to inspect and repair my installation, as GG hose tends not to age very well and I suspect that I have an accident waiting to happen with my gauge installation.

carl48

every truck and heavy piece of equipment built from about 1920 to about 2000 has had diesel in the cab fuel pressure gauge and some without computers still do. I can not figure how some people come up with this stuff.

SIXSLUG

Common sense I guess. I'm fair skinned and burn easily.....

Life's probably gonna kill me someday, just taking precautions where I can!

Mines an electric, the sting of the extra cost was over long before the burn's would have healed....

hallio217

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/98-02...e-Package.aspx

This looks like a great package deal! Probably going to order it tomorrow with the fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, EGT gauge and sensor, snubber valve and adapters. It includes all of the sending units, mounting hardware, and A-pillar gauge pod for $260!

Jbremount

Your money, but I would get Isspro guages! Same Issopro gauges are $309 at Vulcan performance,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SIXSLUG

Heads up hallio217, I bought glowshift stuff and it's junk...The pillar mount didn't fit and the guages were pretty cheap/china made.

I have the autometer pod and Isspro guages now.

hallio217

I'll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion!