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- My torque converter lock up switch install - With pics!

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Old 07-09-2007, 11:12 AM
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- My torque converter lock up switch install - With pics!

So I wanted a switch to lockup the torque conveter clutch, but I wanted this switch in a VERY easy spot to toggle it off and on. I took the wheel/airbag apart last week and found an extra port on the clockspring, so I decided to try and use that port for my switch connection.. Working out good so far!!

I don't know what this connection is supposed to be for, so some trucks may be using it, or not have it at all... Not sure..

Step one.... PULL BOTH BATTERY GROUNDS!!!! Unless you want the airbag to blow in your face.

Parts used... This switch has a VERY light feel so a slight nudge will lock/unlock..



Wiring up an LED to come on when the TC is locked..

Im no wiring pro, so I stacked two of the 680ohm resistors..



On....



One of the torx screws is WAY up there, so I just used a tight fitting allen..




Slide the tilt handle to the rear of the truck..




Pop open the panel under the column and remove it by pulling the two screws on the bottom...




10MM socket to remove the 2 airbag screws behind the wheel..



Three connection for the airbag..




Extra port we'll be using..





Extra plug just sitting there under the column..

Old 07-09-2007, 11:30 AM
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usually i throw caution to the wind and have little regard for personal safety, but you still need to be very cautious when dealing with airbags. even though the battery has been disconnected, there have been reports of the airbags deploying due to the capasitors having a charge and what not. be careful and dont work directly in front of it. looks good so far and keep up the good work

brett
Old 07-09-2007, 11:36 AM
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Un-tape and follow the wires back about 10 inches.. Cut off and stub..





Two dead slots in the clockspring plug we'll use..




Extra dead plug that was removed. Unlatch the back cover, and push and twist a heavy paperclip.. You will feel a very distinct release when it's ready to come out.






Close up of the terminal..



Take two of the cut leads and make a switch harness..



Close up of the harness end..




Switch installed.. (NOTE: Install your switch as close to the center metal as possible. Mine rubs the cruise switch once re-installed)



Plugged in and tied to the rest of the wires..



Remaining two leads plugged into the extra ports in the clockspring plug..
Old 07-09-2007, 11:38 AM
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Two wires ready for final hookup..




Ready for action..



VERY slight touch on the switch and my OHM meter zeros out. This instal is going to be using a latching relay to operate the on-LED, and control the converter. You would NOT want to use this switch technique using a direct connection as the clockspring probably can not support the direct electrical load.

More to come when the special little relay comes in!!


Stay tuned..

Old 07-09-2007, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyshakelford
usually i throw caution to the wind and have little regard for personal safety, but you still need to be very cautious when dealing with airbags. even though the battery has been disconnected, there have been reports of the airbags deploying due to the capasitors having a charge and what not. be careful and dont work directly in front of it. looks good so far and keep up the good work

brett
Very good point... When I get home later I'll check the manual and copy paste the true airbag removal procedure. I've had it out about 5 times now, but surely "could" have been lucky..

Old 07-09-2007, 11:40 AM
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looks sweet don nice write up also
Old 07-10-2007, 08:49 AM
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Awesome write-up and pics!!!

To be honest, I was a little scared of messing with the airbag. Those things are no joke. This mod looks so perfect though I have to give it a try. One question...is there a reason you need to disconnect the negative battery terminals instead of the positives?
Old 07-10-2007, 09:37 AM
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Its safer to remove the negative cables because they wont arc, the positive cables will when removed. It will also minimize the possibility of shorting the battery out.
Old 07-10-2007, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jrussell
.is there a reason you need to disconnect the negative battery terminals instead of the positives?
the reason to ALWAYS disconnect the neg battery terminals first is because the neg cables WONT cause an arc/spark if you bump your wrench on the body while the neg and pos are hooked up. but if you unhook the positive first you run the risk of grounding out something.
always disconnect the negative cables first...no need to pull the posative once the neg is pulled the truck is dead..
Old 07-10-2007, 09:41 AM
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AIRBAG ARMING AND DISARMING

WARNING: The airbag control module contains the impact sensor, which enables the system to deploy the airbag. Before attempting to diagnose or service any airbag system or related steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel components, you must disable the airbag system.

PROCEDURE
  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable.
  2. Wait at least two minutes for the capacitor to discharge. WARNING: This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to do this could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.
Old 07-10-2007, 09:48 AM
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Wow, thanks guys. I had no idea removing just the + is bad practice.
Old 07-10-2007, 09:48 AM
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Thanks for posting that Mark!!!

I guess I lag and haven't been able to get the airbag unbolted in under 2 min's haHA!

I think from now on I'll disconnect the battery and wait 5min just in case..
Old 07-11-2007, 02:56 PM
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The extra connector is for trucks equipped with radio controls in the wheel

Bob
Old 07-11-2007, 03:07 PM
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Great writeup!
This needs to go in the Wiki database!^
Old 07-11-2007, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Stacked97
Great writeup!
This needs to go in the Wiki database!^
it already is

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/wiki/Tech_articles


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