Well I got an issue I was wundering about. I got looking at some diagrams of the pumps that are suppose to be on these trucks and mine looks vaguely different. I also noticed things have been tweaked before because of the edges of the nut on top look a bit 'rough'. But my question is, what's what here? I mean I see this nut u turn with the 13 mm but in the center of that same screw u have a torx as well. Is the nut for turning up the screw and the torx for backing that screw off? I'm stumped here.

Here's a picture:
Click Here

 

its a lock nut. loosen it with the 13mm wrench, adjust the torx for more or less smoke, then tighten the nut again to lock the torx into place.

whats different about your pump compared to the pictures you have seen? only thing different about mine compared with the pics is the TPS. is yours an auto tranny too?

Pat

***edit*** i just noticed yours is an auto, maybe the TPS is making it look different.

 

Will tightening that lock nut too much turn the screw itself? Meaning, can I tighten it without turnin anything up?

 

it might turn the screw a little bit (highly unlikely) but to prevent that hold the torx screw with the torx bit, then used a boxed end wrench to tighten the 13mm nut.

its sounding like you are concerned with turning the pump up too much BUT this is NOT the full fuel screw, just the smoke screw. it effects how much fuel you get before any boost is produced, hence how much initial smoke you get when you put the pedal down. once boost has started to be produced, the afc diaphragm and spring take over.


hope this helps you out, Pat

 

If you hold the torx you may loosen or tighten the locknut all you want without changing anything. I would stop where you are at this point. It only gets more complicated. If you had someone hands on to help you it would be alot easier.
-Jim-

 

Thats what I'm getting at, there's not really anyone around to show me hands on. I just like to make sure 100% before I do anything. Safety does pay off at times eh and even if you ask a stupid question you'll never forget it. So yeah, all a learning experience . But moreorless thanks guys for both your imput.

 

Mike , i can give you a hand whenever you need it , your just across town , and i have hands on experience, i got that VE at school cranked up a bunch.

See if we can't bleed/adjust those brakes at the same time.

 

I would not mess with that adjustment. If you screw it in you get more initial smoke but no real power increase. if you want power there is another screw down below. Hopefully Kcastun can help you out.
Good luck

 

No no I dont want power right now. Smoke though, definately. But the thing is I want to have it so I know how to adjust back and forth when I want or feel the need to. As I see it the power screw isn't something to really play with unless u have the appropriate equipment and experience. But the smoke screw, u can play with from time to time. Whether it be turn it a little then test or vice versa. It's all about being able to and knowing how to. But hey thanks again for the info.

 

The "smoke screw" provides a bit of "preload" on the AFC diaphram....in effect this provides a bit "extra" fuel on the initial "get rolling" situation....it will help to spool the turbo a bit quicker for you and, depending on your other adjustments it will give you a larger "puff" of black on your initial launch....say 60 feet'ish...kind of thing.

If you want more smoke, you just need to spin your starwheel down a couple turns....
Remember, there is very little you can do to this pump that can't be "undone" fairly easily...just keep track of what you adjusted and how much...from there it's cherry pie dude...

pastor bob....

 

Put the starwheel down? As in turn it in, correct?^^^

 

yup, righty tighty=smoke

 

ditch the spring and

 

You can wind the starwheel down to the bottom of it's post and this will allow your 'boost fueling' to come on almost right away, with little if any boost pressure.
I have installed a valet switch on my pump. Now, I can run the starwheel pretty much right down and use the valet switch to keep from providing any boost to the AFC housing, then, when I want to play, I just switch the valet on and I get full AFC fueling almost imediately....nasty..but fun.
Currently I am running about 30-32psi boost with no AFC fueling at all...this keeps my temps at about 1000*F-1100*F max under WOT...then, I throw the switch and wahoooo......

pb...

 

PB, when you say valet switch, is that a valve in line with the boost feed to the afc, or something completely different? I'd like to try something like that.
greg