leveling kits
leveling kits
just looking for some input for a leveling kit for my truck. how many inches should go with and something stylish possibly like a stainless steel or something of that sorts. Mainly i want my truck to sit up a bit but i dont want to go with the lift kit route. one more thing im looking at a set of wheels from eagle alloys and if the offset is -4 does that mean the rim sticks out 4mm past the stock offset?
A 2" or 2.5" leveling kit will likely get you an even front to rear stance when unloaded. Keep in mind with a level lift that as soon as you start adding weight behind the truck (or in the bed) the back end will sag lower than the front and that will also cause your headlights to blind oncoming traffic at night. Just some things to think about.
Not sure there are any stainless leveling pucks out there and, even if there were, it's not something you would easily see. Most are powdercoated black so they just blend in with the rest of the suspension.
As for wheel offset, it depends on the wheel width. Here is a formula to convert offset to backspacing:
For negative offset wheels: (Wheel Width +1)/2 - (offset * .03937)
With an 8" wide wheel, you want to stay as close to 6" backspacing as possible, as that is around where the stock wheels are. Less backspacing means they will stick out further and possibly cause tires to rub on the fenders, depending on size, brand, tread type of the tires.
My local dealers won't void any part of the warranty for leveling pucks (they install them for some people) but you might want to check with your dealer first if you are concerned with warranty coverage.
Not sure there are any stainless leveling pucks out there and, even if there were, it's not something you would easily see. Most are powdercoated black so they just blend in with the rest of the suspension.
As for wheel offset, it depends on the wheel width. Here is a formula to convert offset to backspacing:
For negative offset wheels: (Wheel Width +1)/2 - (offset * .03937)
With an 8" wide wheel, you want to stay as close to 6" backspacing as possible, as that is around where the stock wheels are. Less backspacing means they will stick out further and possibly cause tires to rub on the fenders, depending on size, brand, tread type of the tires.
My local dealers won't void any part of the warranty for leveling pucks (they install them for some people) but you might want to check with your dealer first if you are concerned with warranty coverage.
broncohound you are a wealth of knowledge. You seem to bail me out on alot of these troubles i have and i want to thank you. what would you suggest on the right size leveling and tire size.
Regarding tire size, that depends alot on you. Things to consider are how you feel about load range D vs. load range E (alot of the taller size tires only come in load range D), about rubbing the control arms at full lock (a 12.50" wide tire on stock wheels will rub them slightly), about possibly trimming some of your lower valence (depending on your wheel width and backspacing), about tire longevity and width, and about fuel economy.
My '08 with the 2.5" HBS leveling pucks and 325/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers:



There are headlight adjustment screws on each lens, behind the little rubber flap on the inside edge of the lens. It is a torx head, either #20 or #25 I can't quite remember for certain. In order to properly adjust your headlights, find a solid, flat wall around dark, park your truck where the front bumper is exactly 25ft. from the wall, then measure the distance from the ground to the center of the headlight lens perpendicular to the ground. Adjust the cutoff line of your headlight beam on the wall until the distance from the ground to the cutoff line is 4" less than the distance from the ground to the center of your headlight lens. Repeat the procedure for the other headlight and don't forget to aim the foglights down a bit as well (the same size Torx head, the adjustment screw is on the top of the foglight lens). No more people flashing you. Even with 6000K HID retrofits in both my headlights and foglights, nobody ever bright lights me.
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I went with a 2" leveling kit on both my 07 and my 08 Megacabs and they have worked without an issue. They took about an hour to install and then I reset my headlights and foglights due to the change in angle.
To stay low cost, I picked up my kits from Ebay for around $60 with free shipping.
My tires are roughly 33x12.5x20's and are on 20" eagle alloys. I forgot the off set, but they are near stock back spacing so I don't have any rubbing issues.
Here are some crappy cell phone pics.

To stay low cost, I picked up my kits from Ebay for around $60 with free shipping.
My tires are roughly 33x12.5x20's and are on 20" eagle alloys. I forgot the off set, but they are near stock back spacing so I don't have any rubbing issues.
Here are some crappy cell phone pics.

No problem, man. That's what the forums are for. As for the right size, it seems each truck is a bit different. Some sit a bit more level from the factory than others and thus require a shorter leveling puck. On my '08, I used the 2.5" Hell Bent Steel brand leveling pucks and it leveled the stance almost perfectly. I tow fairly heavy fairly often, so I soon after installed a set of Firestone Ride Rites airbags to the rear so I can keep the correct stance under load.
Regarding tire size, that depends alot on you. Things to consider are how you feel about load range D vs. load range E (alot of the taller size tires only come in load range D), about rubbing the control arms at full lock (a 12.50" wide tire on stock wheels will rub them slightly), about possibly trimming some of your lower valence (depending on your wheel width and backspacing), about tire longevity and width, and about fuel economy.
My '08 with the 2.5" HBS leveling pucks and 325/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers:



There are headlight adjustment screws on each lens, behind the little rubber flap on the inside edge of the lens. It is a torx head, either #20 or #25 I can't quite remember for certain. In order to properly adjust your headlights, find a solid, flat wall around dark, park your truck where the front bumper is exactly 25ft. from the wall, then measure the distance from the ground to the center of the headlight lens perpendicular to the ground. Adjust the cutoff line of your headlight beam on the wall until the distance from the ground to the cutoff line is 4" less than the distance from the ground to the center of your headlight lens. Repeat the procedure for the other headlight and don't forget to aim the foglights down a bit as well (the same size Torx head, the adjustment screw is on the top of the foglight lens). No more people flashing you. Even with 6000K HID retrofits in both my headlights and foglights, nobody ever bright lights me.
Regarding tire size, that depends alot on you. Things to consider are how you feel about load range D vs. load range E (alot of the taller size tires only come in load range D), about rubbing the control arms at full lock (a 12.50" wide tire on stock wheels will rub them slightly), about possibly trimming some of your lower valence (depending on your wheel width and backspacing), about tire longevity and width, and about fuel economy.
My '08 with the 2.5" HBS leveling pucks and 325/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers:



There are headlight adjustment screws on each lens, behind the little rubber flap on the inside edge of the lens. It is a torx head, either #20 or #25 I can't quite remember for certain. In order to properly adjust your headlights, find a solid, flat wall around dark, park your truck where the front bumper is exactly 25ft. from the wall, then measure the distance from the ground to the center of the headlight lens perpendicular to the ground. Adjust the cutoff line of your headlight beam on the wall until the distance from the ground to the cutoff line is 4" less than the distance from the ground to the center of your headlight lens. Repeat the procedure for the other headlight and don't forget to aim the foglights down a bit as well (the same size Torx head, the adjustment screw is on the top of the foglight lens). No more people flashing you. Even with 6000K HID retrofits in both my headlights and foglights, nobody ever bright lights me.
Slightly over 67K miles presently. They are certainly starting to show their age, but still have plenty of tread and have yet to give me reason to worry in adverse conditions. I will probably replace them around 75K miles, unless something starts giving me cause for concern before then.
if you tow alot grapplers are not the way to go, i had them on my truck pulling a 24 ft enclosed with a micro sprinti only got 32,000 miles out of them till i had to replace them cause the tread wore right off, hope this helps you out, pro comp tires wear the best for bigger tires if you tow


