OK. Well I'm definitely going to change it then. I'll go ahead and do the flexplate and rear main while I have it down. I always wanted to know whether I had a stock TC anyway. I appreciate the info. I hope that's all it is. Is delphi any good?

 

Why are you dropping the pan? You don't need to do that to replace the main seal.

 

support the back of the motor, and jumper the neutral safety switch for the trans, and fire the motor up. Should help you isolate it being anything with the trans, or converter.

 

I got to looking at the rear main seal kits and realized they don't have oil pan gaskets in them, so I jumped the gun on that. I didn't take it off. My FSM is on the way, so hopefully I won't have any more moments.....lol.

 

I thought about that, but the jack I have holding it up now isn't the greatest, and I'm leery of the jack stands holding the truck up because the base is not big enough for their height. Also space is very tight in my work space, so I decided not to take any unnecessary chances. I had a feeling from the beginning it was fuel related any way, because it's inconsistent.

By the way, any suggestions on fixing a wrung trans cooler line fitting? I broke the one that screws into the adapter on the trans going to the heat exchanger. I thought about cutting the sensor section out, double flaring both ends and moving it a little further down the line using hydraulic hose, and having a new end custom made with hydraulic hose, so that I have a hose coming out of the trans, clamped to the sensor piece, then coupled to the rest of the line via hose. I don't have enough room to put a fitting on next to the sensor and make the flare, thus the hoses.

 

good hose will work, as long as you flare the end where you chop it off on the original line. The metal is too soft for compression fittings.

 

Ok time for an update. The truck is all back together, new rear main, lift pump and custom trans cooler line. Fired it up and after purging itself and running for a minute I hear a familiar sound from the bottom end. Still intermittent, and less noticeable, or gone with rpms up. So I'm going to disconnect the supply line from the PO's jerry rigged tank selector valve (and remove it while I'm there) and dunk it in 5 gallons of fresh fuel with a new fuel filter and see what it does. If that fixes it then I guess I need to drop the tank, completely drain it, clean it, and replace every screen, filter, etc I can find, and fill it to the top with good quality diesel from the T/A truckstop, no additives. Any suggestions?

Also got my gauges in, and I have the sensors installed. Autometer Z series boost, pyro, and tach. I'm borrowing an idea I got from BC's pic of a little custom dash work he did, only instead of replacing the warning lights I just moved them to where the O/D switch was, which is now where the 4x4 indicator blankout is, and I plan on cutting a piece of sheet metal to mount the boost and pyro where the warning lights were. I'll get some pics up when it's done. Looks pretty cool so far.

 

When you replaced them did you go back with diaphragm or upgrade to low pressure piston? I replaced mine with a delphi diaphragm pump. Are they any good?

 

I ran one for about a year before I upgraded it to a piston pump. I didn't have any problems with it, and the price was right.

 

i have a p-pump so its a high pressure

 

Well, here's the video I made of the engine noise. It's dark and a little shaky, but you can hear it pretty well aroung bellhousing/adapter plate. It's beginning to sound like something serious enough to pull the motor to me, but I could use some suggestions before doing so. My first step will be taking an oil sample and sending it to blackstone. Here it is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ0-JkHFbQ4

I have been reading up a little on the thrust bearing, and was wondering whether this is prone to failure or not.

 

I agree with you that it does not sound good.

Oil analysis is a great idea, that will tell you what it is likely to be.

The thrust bearings are prone to failure - but not usually in auto trucks. Have you checked endplay yet? If you have a dial indicator and a pry bar, it'll take 10 minutes to rule that out.

 

I don't have a dial indicator yet. I pryed behind the flexplate when the tranny was down and I didn't find anything, but I haven't checked at the harmonic balancer yet. Best to do it with the indicator though. How do I go about it?

 

Whack the damper to the rear with a dead-blow hammer. Set up the dial indicator, zero it, then try to pry the damper forward. Should read less than 0.012".

 

hmmm im curious now... im subscribed...