smokeum99ta

Just got done replacing my ball joints. Now on my pass. side I have gear oil coming out by the nuckle. I didn't see a axle seal on either end. I assumed it was futher inside the tube. Obvoiusly I damaged something to make it leak now. Whats inside there thats gonna need to be replaced to stop this leak?

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---Truck---
1998 12 Valve 2500 4X4, Auto, Extended Cab, 8' Bed, EGT, Boost, and Trans gauges, 100 plate full forward, 4 gsk, 4" downpipe w/ 5" exhaust out the back, AEM intake, new era 435's & full cut dv's, mr bobs intercooler boots, KDP done, HTS trans 14.75@90.97 mph 1.94 60"
---Race Car---
1999 Pontiac Trans Am 347ci w/nitrous 9.80@142
---Play Toy's---
2007 yamaha 700 efi grizzly
2009 raptor 90 (for son, but fun to play with)

Tate

There is a seal just outboard of the CAD housing. On your normal solid axles, the seals are just outside of the bearings for the carrier. Have to pull the carrier to change them normally.

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'98 3500 4x2 Quad Cab, 24v, 5 spd, 3.55s, No Plate, 4k GSK, 23° Timing, DDP Comp Injectors, Silver Bullet, Big Stick Cam, FASS, BD Short Shifter, SBC DD, Fluidampr
Alcoa Magnums, GM Brake Cylinders, HID Headlights, DSS

'98 2500 4x4 Reg Cab, 12v, 5 spd, 3.55s, 0 plate, 3k GSK, 15° Timing, SBC DD, F1 370's, 64/71/0.80 Turbo, Fluidampr
Alcoa H2's, Lorado Tonneau Cover, HID Headlights, Espar D5, EMS Hub Conversion

infidel

It's very common for fluid to get past the seals and trapped in the axle tube when the axle is hanging out of it's normal position.
Once the axle is back in place the seal will reseal but it may take 500 or more miles for all the trapped fluid to finally leak out.
Be patent.
If you want to speed it up park with the truck tilted toward the leak.
Don't overfill the differential, I guarantee it will leak if filled to the bottom of the fill hole. Factory spec is 3/4" below the bottom of the hole.

If you still think you you need to replace seal, it's not fun, here's instructions> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm

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Bill
'95 2500 4x4 auto
'95 3500 5 speed flatbed hauler
stock for one day

smokeum99ta

I thought the same thing. So I guess I'll wait it out.

Lil Dog

I had mine leak after the last front end service I had done and it seemed residual from the axle being pulled. I still get a weep once and while but the fluid level seems to stay where its supposed to be. I did originally overfill it and it leaked more.

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97 2500 4X4 LWB CC SLT Laramie 5spd LSD 3.55.
Isspro EV's pyro/boost, #10 Plate, PEAK 3K GSK, AFC Spring, DDP III injectors, S300 Turbo, PEAK IC Boots, TAG III, South Bend 13-1.25" Con FE clutch, SCOTTY II-UNI, MBRP XP 4", KDP Tab, 16° Timing, SS DSS / 03TBK, Roda Deaco PAS. Espar D5WSC heater. B-Quiet sound deadening inside.
Dyno 09-2009 401 RWHP / 1050 Ft-lbs

'08 2500 4x4 MegaCab Laramie, 6.7, 68RFE, 3.73 LSD, S-67ME POD.

Alberta Chapter #5 Prez... PM me for details...

chariotdriver

If you do have to replace the seal, the passenger side is the easy one since you don't have to drop the diff. You just take the cover off the CAD housing (4 bolts) and pull the half shaft out with the U-joint. Then push the seal into the CAD housing and pull it out. The replacement seal goes in and I used some all-thread with a couple of nuts/washers to drive/pull the seal back in. If you have to do the drivers side you will need to drop the diff and all the fluid. Make sure you mark everything so you get it back into the shimmed position if you want the gears to last.

To speed up the dripping you can use some synthetic safe cleaner (I use electric contact cleaner) sprayed down the axle tube after you got it all back together. It gets the oil out but doesn't harm rubber/synthetic seals like some brake part cleaners do.

cd

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97, club cab, 5 spd, 4X4, KDP tabbed, 285k, bone stock except for the pre-luber and 285 tires
96, reg cab, auto, 4X4, KDP tabbed, 308k, bone stock except for 285 tires