gpshemi

Just picked up a new toy hauler and on the way home I noticed that the truck seems to be running higher egt's than the old 5th wheel. Granted it's heavy (13,500) for my SRW, but I got thinking, a dually would have all the same drivetrain and two more wheels for resistance. This is a full height unit rather then a midheightv like the old one. Behind a semi makes about 150 degree lower difference. He's cutting the wind for me. Truck runs like a top btw.

So I'm wondering...how hot is too hot? 1200-1300-1500?

63mph cruising flat 950-1050
63mph cruising flat w/ headwind 1000-1100
63mph slight incline no headwind 1050-1150
63mph cruising slight incline w/ headwind 1150-1250
Trip to Gatlinburg Tn through the Smokies = meltdown?


Slowing to 55 didn't seem to make any difference. Might have hurt really since it lugs more. Tried turning off O/D and running the RPM up, but didn't really help. At 1250, it kicks down a gear, runs the rpm's up, and doesn't help.

Pyro is in the manifold at the 'Y'. K&N filter. DIY PSM mod. Donaldson 50". Cat still on. BDTD Crazy Larry set on stock.

Should I unload the BDTD? Drop the cat, clean the filter,and pull again? Boost fooler? Intake elbow?
Oooorrr...is that a perfectly acceptable range and forget about it?
Looking for ideas.

no_6_oh_no

The range sounds pretty normal for a basically stock truck. Normally they will pull 1400-1500 degrees under a big load and grade and that will be at the higher rpm's. The BDTD on lower settings should allow it to hold OD longer and limit the temp rise.

Any idea what your boost was doing? A boost fooler might help some under a load.

gpshemi

Well I've been kicking around a boost fooler anyway. I normally only get around 25psi anyway. I once saw a flash of 30 while hot rodding, but I can't seem to reproduce it. I don't recall anything much past 17-23 psi, but admittedly didn't pay much attention.

Think I'd see some improvement from a boost fooler and a boost elbow? I'm due to clean the k&n.

no_6_oh_no

You don't need a boost elbow if you get the Quad BF. It will clamp the voltage from the MAP so the ECU never sees over 26-28 psi and will not open the waste gate. Stock you should be able to push boost close to 40 psi and that will definitely cool things off when you push it.

If you want to try it quick just crip the WG boost reference hose closed with a small pait of vice grips and see what happens.

gpshemi

What happens when you get out of the throttle then with a BF?

I guess I don't understand boost foolers exactly, other than to say it's allowing more boost beyond stock.

They don't seem to have settings on them like some of the older waste gate mods I've read about.

How much do you think it will come down? 50-100 degrees?

soulezoo

I tend to agree with oh-no above for the most part. You do have an exceptionally heavy trailer for a srw. Besides stability, the drw will actually have less rolling resistance under that type of load (not empty) due to the ability to spread out the load. Those 285's work against you gearing wise by a large margin too along with the tread type for resistance. I believe those are close to 33's? What is the load rating and what psi are you running at? I ask because when you running at limits of everything already, it all starts to add up and work against you.

I would recommend stock timing on your tunes, helps keep cyl. Temps down to avoid meltdowns. It is also a very good time to consider a towing cam. That will help a lot.

no_6_oh_no

Same thing that happens without a BF, boost drops in response to less fuel.

An electronic BF is nothing but a filter on the MAP voltage that is a repsonse to manifold pressure. It will allow only a set voltage to pass thru to the ECU and no more than the set point. If the ECU never sees boost over an in-range value it happily keeps fueling. There is really no need for a setting on a BF, all it does is make sure you don't get codes. If you want to control boost to different levels then you use a boost elbow to regulate the boost applied to the WG controller to open it.

The 50-100 degrees is pretty normal to drop the max EGT's. It will vary by truck and circumstances.

gpshemi

ok. I get the boost fooler then I suppose.

Soulezoo, Oh-No never said anything about my loads. I'm not running the BDTD tunes. I ran it set on stock. Not sure if thats really "stock" or not.

As for being over weight though, thats neither here nor there, since a dually wouldn't make that much difference. From my research on a dually, I'd pick up payload, and lose gcvrw. It's just a trade, and I'd be at the max or over the other way.

Putting that aside though, I read lots of guys towing these loads, dually and not. So it's seems to be just a matter of the right hardware. The truck handles this load great, aside from temps, which Oh-no says isn't all that high.

alboy

I pull 14600 /23000 lbs gross with my 06.On the flats egt run about 8/850 on tow mode,extra 40 hp.Put it on stock setting it ran about 9/950.I ran it for the first time on 3 setting/60 hp ,dropped the egts 0n a 6% plus grade to 1250/1280 ,where on the 2 setting i would hit 1350 easily.The truck seemed to really like it, pulled efortlessly,more timing?You may want to see if you have a brake dragging,that will pull an extra 100 egt.

no_6_oh_no

Your load weight isn't that unusual. You might try throwing a 40 HP on it and see what happens. A little extra power and a little extra timing will change the EGT's.

If it can pull in OD at lower rpm's it will use less fuel and generate less EGT's than stock and having a downshift.

gpshemi

I tried the BDTD on tow for a few minutes, but since I figured it would make it worse, I didn't pay close attention and I didn't get it a fair shake I'm sure. Wonder if BDTD has some programs that are better than others. I went back to an older program for Crazy Larry (2.4.1?) versus the newer online program (2.4.4?). Maybe I should update to the latest. I'll never use CL anyway.

I think I'll start with a boost fooler. I see then on ebay right now for $55. I wrote the seller and they are made by the same folks that are making the ones for BD. Quad's are $66. Then I might get a better elbow for grins. I thought about dropping the cat as well, but seems it'll add noise and the family will complain on that. So I'll leave it on.

I'll let you know how I make out I guess. It's not a big investment this way.

thanks.

Brad5502

I down shift to keep my pre-turbo EGTs around 1100-1150. With my 5 speed and 13.5K 5er in 100 degree temps, I usually cruise up the grapvine in SOCAL (long 6% grade) in 3rd at 35-40MPH, EGTs around 1000 and I think RPM around 2300. In 4th RPMs drop below 2000 and EGTs quickly soar over 1200 as the engine starts lugging.

BTW I use the Smarty standard 5 setting with my SO...seems best setting to keep EGTs down.

gpshemi

yeah but yours is a little different animal.

Picked up a stainless intake horn tonight on ebay.
Tomorrow I'll take another look at boost foolers.
Wish there was a way to bypass the cat for those steep inclines...

jballou

Leave the cat, it won't make enough of a difference, try the BF, you might be surprised.

The temps you are seeing is within the factory limits. But you are looking to make it better.

The things working against you is the larger tires, I had 35's and went back to stock size, and the truck thanked me. It wasn't downshifting all the time, temps were better as well.

Try the bully dog it might help.

Here is an option that I personally liked. I went from a Quadzilla 60hp tow box to the Smarty Jr, and was very impressed, 200* cooler temps everywhere in the rpm band. I have to stay in the throttle up a long mountain pass to hit 1250 now. Take it or leave it.

lucey

I run a smarty jr on 40hp with a BF and boost T. I run 285's pumped to 80psi. I haul a 16500 toy hauler. I never see above 1000 until i pull a grade and then i will see as high as 1100-1150. Thats pretty good in my book. I have the boost as high as 34psi. 32-33 is the normal range, it makes a big difference on the EGT.