shuddering, white smoke, again.....!!
shuddering, white smoke, again.....!!
yep, almost as bad as it did the day i installed the 435 injectors with the laser cut dvs, on another thread i started i had this issue but it was fixed by pulling the laser cuts, well i haven't changed anything and the trucks acting up again, i was told my timing probably slipped back, is there a quick way to advance it with out the timing tools, i can't drive it the way it is and i don't have any other vehicle right know. thanks
jason
jason
Sounds like you have to adjust your timming, only way to do it to get the tools. See if you can find someone close to you that has them, that would be the cheapest way to get it do. Good luck.
You should be able to rotate the pump shaft until you can pin it, then break the gear free, and bar the engine until you can pin that. Reseat the gear, and it should be back to stock timing.
Keep in mind, I do not own a 12v, so this is all from reading on here/haynes book.
Beneath the injection pump there should be a plastic pin. Put pressure on that while the engine is slowly barred over. Once it slips in, the engine is now at TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Failing that, you can find TDC on the compression stroke another way. When you know that the #1 is on the compression stroke (watch the rockers on #6, if the exhaust is open, #1 is on compression), adjust a valve down quite a ways. Barr the engine up until the piston contacts the valve. Mark the balancer to something of reference. You can bar the engine backwards until the piston contacts the valve again, mark the balancer again. The center between these two marks will be TDC. Need to make sure that the valve you are using doesn't move at all doing this, or it will be inaccurate. If it were me, I'd setup a dial/mag base on the rocker arm. After I made piston/valve contact the first time, I'd loosen off the rocker, bar the engine forward quarter of a rev, set the rocker back to where it was before, and then bar the engine back. Less chance of the valve moving, and less turning of the crank.
Beneath the injection pump there should be a plastic pin. Put pressure on that while the engine is slowly barred over. Once it slips in, the engine is now at TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Failing that, you can find TDC on the compression stroke another way. When you know that the #1 is on the compression stroke (watch the rockers on #6, if the exhaust is open, #1 is on compression), adjust a valve down quite a ways. Barr the engine up until the piston contacts the valve. Mark the balancer to something of reference. You can bar the engine backwards until the piston contacts the valve again, mark the balancer again. The center between these two marks will be TDC. Need to make sure that the valve you are using doesn't move at all doing this, or it will be inaccurate. If it were me, I'd setup a dial/mag base on the rocker arm. After I made piston/valve contact the first time, I'd loosen off the rocker, bar the engine forward quarter of a rev, set the rocker back to where it was before, and then bar the engine back. Less chance of the valve moving, and less turning of the crank.
Keep in mind, I do not own a 12v, so this is all from reading on here/haynes book.
Beneath the injection pump there should be a plastic pin. Put pressure on that while the engine is slowly barred over. Once it slips in, the engine is now at TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Failing that, you can find TDC on the compression stroke another way. When you know that the #1 is on the compression stroke (watch the rockers on #6, if the exhaust is open, #1 is on compression), adjust a valve down quite a ways. Barr the engine up until the piston contacts the valve. Mark the balancer to something of reference. You can bar the engine backwards until the piston contacts the valve again, mark the balancer again. The center between these two marks will be TDC. Need to make sure that the valve you are using doesn't move at all doing this, or it will be inaccurate. If it were me, I'd setup a dial/mag base on the rocker arm. After I made piston/valve contact the first time, I'd loosen off the rocker, bar the engine forward quarter of a rev, set the rocker back to where it was before, and then bar the engine back. Less chance of the valve moving, and less turning of the crank.
Beneath the injection pump there should be a plastic pin. Put pressure on that while the engine is slowly barred over. Once it slips in, the engine is now at TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Failing that, you can find TDC on the compression stroke another way. When you know that the #1 is on the compression stroke (watch the rockers on #6, if the exhaust is open, #1 is on compression), adjust a valve down quite a ways. Barr the engine up until the piston contacts the valve. Mark the balancer to something of reference. You can bar the engine backwards until the piston contacts the valve again, mark the balancer again. The center between these two marks will be TDC. Need to make sure that the valve you are using doesn't move at all doing this, or it will be inaccurate. If it were me, I'd setup a dial/mag base on the rocker arm. After I made piston/valve contact the first time, I'd loosen off the rocker, bar the engine forward quarter of a rev, set the rocker back to where it was before, and then bar the engine back. Less chance of the valve moving, and less turning of the crank.
come to think of it i new how to find tdc for the engine
i meant to ask how i pin the pump? sorry but thanks, i never new about finding tdc the other way, cooljason
Theres a plug on the side of the pump at the front of the governor section, somewhere around 7/8" in diameter. Pull that out. There will be a plastic piece inside. Turn it around, and it will have a groove in it. Get a mirror and turn the pump until pin comes around. Once you see it in the middle of the hole, put the plastic piece and the pluig back on. The pump is now pinned to where it was set from factory.
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