Rough brake pedal
#1
Rough brake pedal
It's hard to describe. But you know how the brake pedal feels when you activate the abs? The hard/soft, ratcheting feel? Well mine has started to do that at random when I apply moderate pressure to the brake. I've replaced the rear speed sensor and I did the front hub a while ago. Now I didn't replace the old sensor with the new one that came with it. I would now but the connector got smashed in a fit of rage. Can I just cut the new sensor off the harness and solder it on to the old harness? Any other ideas? I'm 8 miles from 100k. Thanks yall.
#3
Chapter President
Originally Posted by BigBlue
Anyone have any ideas?
If it's the same connector and sensor, a GOOD splice and solder job should do the trick.
Where is 100k? I can't find it on the map.
#4
It's right by sedalia. Well wouldn't ya know it, as soon as I hit 100,003 and tapped the brakes the ABS light came on but the truck isn't doing the rough brake pedal thing anymore. I'm
#7
Shut her down after she's been running a bit and wait about 10-20 seconds and then disconnect one of the vacuum lines close to the master cylinder and listen for the whish. If there isn't any vacuum left in the line you probably have a leak. Get a Mity-Vac and test each circuit and find out which isn't holding vacuum. Is your BRAKE light on too?
Trending Topics
#9
Originally Posted by billv45
Shut her down after she's been running a bit and wait about 10-20 seconds and then disconnect one of the vacuum lines close to the master cylinder and listen for the whish. If there isn't any vacuum left in the line you probably have a leak. Get a Mity-Vac and test each circuit and find out which isn't holding vacuum. Is your BRAKE light on too?
scuzman00, it's hard to set the front nose down for a corner without the brakes.
#10
Administrator
Originally Posted by billv45
Shut her down after she's been running a bit and wait about 10-20 seconds and then disconnect one of the vacuum lines close to the master cylinder and listen for the whish. If there isn't any vacuum left in the line you probably have a leak. Get a Mity-Vac and test each circuit and find out which isn't holding vacuum. Is your BRAKE light on too?
BigBlue, check out the rear wheel sensor which I beleive is in mounted on the differential. Since its a magnetic pickup the sensor may have gotten gunked up from the wear metals in the gear oil.
#11
I just changed the rear wheel sensor about 10k miles ago but I'll change it again since it's under warranty. I tested out my ABS today and guess what, 7200lbs of lifted 4x4 truck sliding sideways at 70mph with the brakes on the floor is not what I call fun.
#12
Well I went ahead and cut and soldered the wires together. I tried taking the wires out of the old sensor and putting the new wires in but that didn't work so I cut and spliced. I've got the batts unplugged for now letting the computer reset itself. I'll let yall know if that fixes it or not.
#13
No go on the sensor. ABS light is still on and I still don't have ABS. I unplugged the harness from the ABS controller to try and reset it that way (did that on my roommates truck and it worked) so we'll see if that helps.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Grass Valley CA
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Could it be the front ABS sensors? Mine lit the ABS light when the front wheel bearing went bad. I guess it knocked the tone ring off.
It wasn't very long before the bearing grenaded and tore up the rotor.
.................Jim
It wasn't very long before the bearing grenaded and tore up the rotor.
.................Jim