rear main seal
Thread Starter
The 'Ford does not own Cummins' enforcer.
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
From: Easton, pa
rear main seal
ok guys
my ol girl like to mark her territory everywhere we go...to be honest i hate it cause i usually have to clean up everywhere i go....so my question is ....do the cummins use what they call a rope seal for my rear main seal?.....if not what does it use and how much is the seal itself...cause i have a guy that will do it for me ...and maybe you can help me out by telling me any little tricks that will help my 50/50 chance of it working
thanks
smokems
my ol girl like to mark her territory everywhere we go...to be honest i hate it cause i usually have to clean up everywhere i go....so my question is ....do the cummins use what they call a rope seal for my rear main seal?.....if not what does it use and how much is the seal itself...cause i have a guy that will do it for me ...and maybe you can help me out by telling me any little tricks that will help my 50/50 chance of it working
thanks
smokems
I would expect to pay at least $50 from cummins for that seal, I think the last one I bought was $42, but that was a couple of years ago.
The seal itself is pretty big, one piece, Teflon lip seal. I find the easiest way to change on is get the trans out of the way, from the clutch and flywheel. Carefully drill to holes and screw in 2 sheet metal screws and pry the old seal out. Clean the area up, brake clean works best, make sure the crankshaft is clean, dry and free of oil, these seals MUST be installed dry. Check the crank for wear grooves where the seal rides, if they are too deep you'll have to use a different seal with a repair sleeve, that will require a special installer.
Take the new seal, I usually put just a light film of RTV on the outside. The new seal come with everything needed to install it. I usually tap around the installer tool with a hammer and pull the plastic sleeve out of and finish pushing it in when the seal is sitting on the crank. Reinstall everything you took off.
The seal itself is pretty big, one piece, Teflon lip seal. I find the easiest way to change on is get the trans out of the way, from the clutch and flywheel. Carefully drill to holes and screw in 2 sheet metal screws and pry the old seal out. Clean the area up, brake clean works best, make sure the crankshaft is clean, dry and free of oil, these seals MUST be installed dry. Check the crank for wear grooves where the seal rides, if they are too deep you'll have to use a different seal with a repair sleeve, that will require a special installer.
Take the new seal, I usually put just a light film of RTV on the outside. The new seal come with everything needed to install it. I usually tap around the installer tool with a hammer and pull the plastic sleeve out of and finish pushing it in when the seal is sitting on the crank. Reinstall everything you took off.
I would pull the seal adapter out and replace the gaskets behind it while you are in there. It is easier to put the seal in the adapter while it is out on the bench also. Make sure you take alook at the cam plug also and make sure it is dry and not leaking. The rear main seal also has to be put in dry or it will leak.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ted_pulliam
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
4
Aug 4, 2010 11:33 AM



