Is my injection pump toasted?
Is my injection pump toasted?
Just installed the Edge Comp today. Took it for a spin. Did a couple WOT passes and on the last one truck just died. Pulled over and tried to crank it over. Cranked but would not start. Did the injection pump take a dump?
Mark
Mark
Mark,
Is the truck still dead?
Sounds more like you let off causing a stall. Easily fixed by loosening up one or two of the fuel lines at the head then cranking until fuel starts coming out. At that point tighten up and crank again and it will start again.
Is the truck still dead?
Sounds more like you let off causing a stall. Easily fixed by loosening up one or two of the fuel lines at the head then cranking until fuel starts coming out. At that point tighten up and crank again and it will start again.
Ok. I just got back. I cracked a few lines at a time and got fuel coming out of the third, fourth & fifth line back but none out of the one at the front of the motor. I tightened them back down and cranked the motor over and over but would not start. I unhooked the Comp box also and cracked the lines again but no start. What do you think?
Mark
Mark
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more than likely you killed it.
Just curious though......has anyone here had luck doing the "one man" bleeding procedure? Maybe I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time) but it sound to me like alot of guys here crack the lines loose, go to the key, and then check the lines and keep repeating in hopes of bleeding the system. What I do is to remove the starter relay and use an old "horn" button with spade terminals. I put the horn button in place, and crank the engine from under the hood. That way you can watch the fuel flow begin and tighten the lines as the engine is cranking. Seems to work for me.
Just curious though......has anyone here had luck doing the "one man" bleeding procedure? Maybe I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time) but it sound to me like alot of guys here crack the lines loose, go to the key, and then check the lines and keep repeating in hopes of bleeding the system. What I do is to remove the starter relay and use an old "horn" button with spade terminals. I put the horn button in place, and crank the engine from under the hood. That way you can watch the fuel flow begin and tighten the lines as the engine is cranking. Seems to work for me.
Mike, I don't think I can check for codes without a code reader and I don't have one. Should I get one to check it out? If so, which one should I get?
If unhooking the return line doesn't work in the morning, guess I'll be towing the truck and ordering an injection pump.
If unhooking the return line doesn't work in the morning, guess I'll be towing the truck and ordering an injection pump.
I think your IP died. Mine went the same way. No codes, just dead.
I wouldn't go unhooking the return line. Crack the supply line. If you have fuel coming out when the LP is running, you've got fuel to the IP. If nothing is coming out from the HP lines, then it might be time to make a few calls for a new pump.
I wouldn't go unhooking the return line. Crack the supply line. If you have fuel coming out when the LP is running, you've got fuel to the IP. If nothing is coming out from the HP lines, then it might be time to make a few calls for a new pump.
I had my wife cranking on the ignition while I was watching for fuel from the fuel lines I had cracked opened up at the head. I did a couple at a time and there was fuel coming out of all but the front two. I didn't try the one at the rear of the motor. If the injection pump was dead, would there be any fuel coming out of any of the lines? Just curious.
Generally only cracking open the "easy" ones gets the engine to fire. #1 and #3. I also find that "good" pumps have quite a bit of fuel flow, while bad ones will give you "false hope" by only discharging a slight amount.


