gutless 95 dodge... why?
#1
gutless 95 dodge... why?
Well I posted when I first got my truck about it being a total wimp and not downshifting going up hill. Its been totally gutless and I couldn't take it anymore. So I installed a 4" stainless turbo back exhaust. Then tonight I put guages in. Got my boost guage all the way up and running...
I think I found one of the causes of my gutless-ness. Noticible movement of boost needle does not start until 1700-1800 in any gear (auto). I pointed it up the 7% grade on the way home I locked OD out and put the hammer down just like I normally do... when the tach was at 2400 and it was pulling solid up the hill I saw about 15lbs of boost... that was the max I saw in the needle... once I see some boost on the guage the engine really comes alive. As soon as I let it into OD at like 57MPH.. it killed ALL BOOST when the tach dropped to 1500 RMPS. When it was boosting 15lbs I heard a wsh-whs-whs-wsh... like it was pulsing... whistle of the turbo sounds fine but it almost sounds like it is leaking air between the compressor and the Intercooler... could this cause the symptoms I see?? How do I test my theory?
Thanks, Jim
I think I found one of the causes of my gutless-ness. Noticible movement of boost needle does not start until 1700-1800 in any gear (auto). I pointed it up the 7% grade on the way home I locked OD out and put the hammer down just like I normally do... when the tach was at 2400 and it was pulling solid up the hill I saw about 15lbs of boost... that was the max I saw in the needle... once I see some boost on the guage the engine really comes alive. As soon as I let it into OD at like 57MPH.. it killed ALL BOOST when the tach dropped to 1500 RMPS. When it was boosting 15lbs I heard a wsh-whs-whs-wsh... like it was pulsing... whistle of the turbo sounds fine but it almost sounds like it is leaking air between the compressor and the Intercooler... could this cause the symptoms I see?? How do I test my theory?
Thanks, Jim
#3
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not saying you dont have a boost leak but since you have gauges you should slide your plate forward and turn your star wheel, you will ba alot happier with usable power. (once you find your boost issue). to check your boost issue you can have a friend lightly apply the accelerator while holding the brakes to prevent the truck from moving and you can listen for boost with the hood open. make sure you dont hold it for too long, your tranny wont like it and dont stand in front of your truck... just incase. this is just a way to build a LITTLE boost with the hood open to maybe feel a boost leak.
#4
Once I find the boost issue I fully intend to open the afc housing and install this #6 Plate I have sitting on my dash.... but I want to make sure things are running right to begin with..... Thank you for your help...
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Best way to do it if you ask me. I'm as sure as I can be without looking at your truck that you have a boost leak.
#6
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The 95 ram is the slowest thing Ive ever driven in stock shape. That pump is a 160hp one with the automatics. Its a DOG.
You have to do a couple things to get usable power from that 160 pump. It needs a 3KGSK, 191DV's, boost elbow and a fuel cam plate. I would also recommend changing the star wheel position and maybe even the AFC spring.
If you have gauges youre almost there. Youll need a transmission upgrade to handle any real power increase.
You can pressure test the intake system for leaks by using a PVC pipe cap in the size of the snorkel and a chuck for an air hose. Inflate and listen for leaks. since you havent said whats on the truck Im assuming its mostly stock
You need fuel to make boost and good airflow to clean up added fuel.
You have to do a couple things to get usable power from that 160 pump. It needs a 3KGSK, 191DV's, boost elbow and a fuel cam plate. I would also recommend changing the star wheel position and maybe even the AFC spring.
If you have gauges youre almost there. Youll need a transmission upgrade to handle any real power increase.
You can pressure test the intake system for leaks by using a PVC pipe cap in the size of the snorkel and a chuck for an air hose. Inflate and listen for leaks. since you havent said whats on the truck Im assuming its mostly stock
You need fuel to make boost and good airflow to clean up added fuel.
#7
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16lbs is all my truck made stock... but I went and tightened up all of my intercooler boots before I put my gauges in. My #8 plate helped my truck so much but so did my "built" tranny
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#8
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DV's are not a requirement by any means. A properly tuned and timed pump with 131's will do wonders. Playing with the star wheel, plate position and smoke screw will get it right. I put a #6 plate and some DDP 1's in my 95 with the 131's. I had a stumble just off idle when I first installed the sticks, but have gotten rid of it by playing with the smoke screw some. I still need to get it timed to 15.5* and install my 3K GSK, and look into building the tranny up. At this point I'm slipping the torque converter big time.
#9
I totally agree an auto, stock 95 is a turd. BUT, with all proper maintenance performed you should be seeing at LEAST 20psi (at sea level), and at least some marginal torque. I second the boost leak theory. A clogged prefilter or clogged water seperater will cause this also.
#10
Any easy way to clean the prefilter? I picked up a new filter/water seperator on the way to work this morning. Also going to check out the boots on the passenger side of the Inter cooler.
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#15
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You need to do the basic diagnostics, or trying to throw power at a truck with poor up-keep isn't going to make optimum use of the added power.
Fuel system needs filter and cleaning, and do a fuel pressure check. A 13yr old overflow valve isn't going to be good either.
The stock intercooler boots and clamps suck and loosen up, and that chap material develops pin-hole leaks too. Just simply tightening up the clamps makes a world of difference.
Fuel system needs filter and cleaning, and do a fuel pressure check. A 13yr old overflow valve isn't going to be good either.
The stock intercooler boots and clamps suck and loosen up, and that chap material develops pin-hole leaks too. Just simply tightening up the clamps makes a world of difference.