GasganoFJ60

Just found out I got a bad front driveshaft. Went to the Dodge house and they guy there looked it up based on the last 9 digits of my VIN number and it looked like 30 different driveshaft models came up.
Whats the deal with that?
He then said that my driveshaft would have a number stamped on it that would narrow the search down. Brought it inside,, looked all over it and found no number stamped on it. We only found a STICKER that of course was faded away and covered in oil making it illegible.
Anyone have any suggestions on trying to figure out what driveshaft I need?

OR?!?!?

Should I take this old one down to the local machine shop and have them build me a new one from scratch? Personally, Im leaning towards that because it seems like it might be just as much, if not, cheaper, than a new one from Chrysler and I could always have them tailor make a nice heavy duty unit to my personal specs.

Anyone got any tips? Please feel free to put your 2¢ in.

Ace

I've haven't used anything but custom-made shafts on anything needing that type work in the last 30 years. Normally get better, stronger, less costly results. There's driveline shops specializing in race car and custom 4x4 work in every major metro area that can get you what you need for less.

bob4x4

You won't need a new shaft unless it is bent or the splines are worn.New joints will be inexpensive compared to building a complete shaft.

Bob

GasganoFJ60

No, the splines are worn out. Some areas are worn flat.

Captain

I just had 2 front shafts done up. You can goto a local shop and have them rebuild the whole shaft but that (at least up my way) is not much off in price from having a new shaft made. They got it from a place near by called neapco. Inland empire driveline in CA also I think carries neapco. I think the shaft was around 450-550 but that was extra long for a lifted truck, with a dust boot, and SPICER COLD fordged 1350 U joints, upgraded from my stock 2nd gen's 1330's. I personally think the spicer cold fordged non-greaseable U joints are the strongest you can buy and last a very long time without the hassel of grease. I insist on them when I order from somewhere. Just a thought. the neapco shaft is also a heavyer wall thickness and has more flex at the CV while maintaining all the steel's mass/strength.
Hope that helps some
Chris

1stGen545

I put a 1410 with no CV shaft in the front of mine. Used the same yoke and seal as on the rear output of the 205 and the same yoke and seal as on the 70. 60 and 70 use the same yoke and so dose the front and rear out put on the 205. Cost less than a new CVshaft. It will all work in a stock truck with no other mods. The 1410 can be put in and not binde becose it has a larger cross. And then you have a spare yoke and u-joint for the rear if something broke.