Hello everyone,

I pulled the tires off the front end of the 99 Quad Cab Long bed 4x4 2500 diesel w/6" factory lift. I did this because the front brakes started a sudden growling. It made me cringe as I suspected what I would find. Yep, metal on metal.

So, the right front rotor is shot as there was no outer pad. I didn't even go farther right then. I knew I'm going to have to put on new rotors and new pads. But I have a few questions and would like the opinions as I've been busy with all sorts of things and not reading up about our trucks:

1) Do I need to/Should I replace the calipers?
2) Just go with lifetime O'Reillys/Autozone pads/rotors/calipers?
3) Is there a 1 ton front end upgrade or something that I should be considering?
4) I have what I would call severe rust, so is there anything extra I should worry about or look to replace?

I've not done this on this truck before. Or any of this type. I've done a *little* brake work on the small cars, so I'm trying to read up and I have my Haynes manual out familiarizing myself as best I can. ANY help is appreciated.

Many thanks,
jamman

 

i think the one ton are the same brakes as the 3/4 on the front........i could be wrong

 

I did a little more reading and there was a little mixing of facts in my memory. There is the 1 ton upgrade on the rear brakes and then the swap on the front end to the 3rd gen brakes. That was what I was thinking. As I don't have 17" wheels and am not going to go buy a whole set when I have 265/75/16's, I'll just skip that. Looks like I'm off to get new rotors tomorrow and likely new calipers.

 

Since your outside pad was completely worn out leads me to believe that your caliper was not sliding on the mounting bolts[pins].When you install the new calipers lube the 2 mounting bolts with some silicon grease.When the caliper can slide on the bolts your pads should wear more evenly.Good luck taking the rotor/hub bearing assy off.Quite a job.

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't there a way to use the force of the power steering to help get the hub/rotor assembly off??

 

Yep, loosen the hub bolts, then use a socket and extension on the bolt to the axle, have a helper start the truck and turn the wheel, the preasure from the steering pushes the hub out. If its really stubborn give the knuckle a whack with a hammer with preasure on it. Should pop right out.

 

Ok, I don't think this is as easy as I thought it would be. I didn't break into it other than having it on the jack stands and wheels off and inspecting things. I am used to 2wd and I didn't truly realize the hub/axle connection. I was reading my Haynes manual in Chapter 9 section 11 , I think,about the brakes and it tells me that if I am working on a 4wd to refer to Chapter 8 section 24 for removing the rotor. Turn there, and it says that if you have to take off the rotor they suggest taking it to a shop. It says we are looking at special equipment etc to make this happen.

So, here is my dilemma: Via phone I talked to 2 local shops and we are looking at a minimum of $300-$400 to take this off one side and put it back together. And since you are supposed to work on both sides at one time, I'm guessing that I'm looking at a $1000 brake job on the front of this thing.
(I ask those of you who have done this):
Is all we are talking as far as special tools a 20ton press?
How hard is it to do if I go to Harbor Freight, buy their $180 20ton press and rebuild these things myself?
Are there other special tools other than the basics I would need?
How much time should it take to do?(I'll multiply that by 2.5 to 3)
Any good guides on doing this with the automatic lockout hubs and not the manuals?

Yep, money is tight, so I have to ask this. I'll bite the bullet if I have to and take it to the repair shop as I need my truck to work(say hello to Mr. Credit Card), but if it is something reasonable and I can save $500, then I am just about forced to do so.

Thank you all for your input.

 

Will this post found at this link and being the #10 post- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...46#post1423546 - be one that applies to this year of truck? I seem to find conflicting information about tearing into this wheel assembly

I'm going to try and cut and paste it here:

Removing Brake Rotor
Many times the rotor will come right off by hitting on it with a soft hammer from behind while rotating it.
If it doesn't...

Break the big nut lose with the tires on the ground but leave it tight. Jack the side you are working on high to keep differential fluid from running out. Remove wheel and brake caliper. Caliper takes a 3/8" allan head.
Remove three of the four bolts that hold the unit bearing on from the back side, they take a 12 point socket. Leave the last bolt most of the way screwed out, wedge a socket with extension in-between the bolt and differential housing, start the engine and turn the steering wheel to pop the bearing off. You will hear it very clearly when it pops. Leaving the big nut tight prevents the bearing form busting apart.

During this process keep the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint. This keeps the axle seal from deforming and possibly leaking.

When you have the rotor off pound the studs out with a copper or brass headed hammer or press.

Pound the studs into the new rotor using a drift then make sure they are pulled in tight by tightening down a lug nut with a pile of washers under it.

Coat the axle stub with anti-seize before putting the bearing/rotor back on so it comes off easy next time.

 

Sounds about right, not as bad as it seems once you do it.

 

Please forgive me, I'm getting excited here and may miss some obvious things.

If I can NOT get the rotor off by smacking it with a soft hammer on the back side of it while rotating it, I use trick with the extension. But some of the additional items I may need other than the basic tools are:

1) 3/8" allen wrench for calipers
2) Brass or copper hammer for pounding out the lug studs or possibly a C clamp to act as a press
3) Anti-sieze for coating the axle stub (not positive what this is, guessing the area around the hub that the rotor is going to slide past?)


I hope this is right. If so, I might be able to do this for about $200 versus upwards of $1000 once I have a shop breaking into it.

Please tell me if I am missing something here.

 

You will also need a 1 11/16" socket for the axle nut and at least a 3' piece of pipe to use as a cheater on the breaker bar to get this nut loose as it is torqued to 175#.I couldn't get the nut on my passenger side loose with an 8' cheater so I cut the nut off and got a new one from the dealer - $36, couldn't find one at the local parts stores.Before I started this job I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 3/4" drive set with sockets, extensions, breaker bar and a ratchet.I also bought a 3/4" torque wrench as my 1/2" torque wrench only goes to 150#That axle nut socket is an odd size so it was not included in the socket set so I got one at Sears.The bearing hub and axle are splined where they slide together.This splined area is what you want to never seeze.Also there is a thin spacer between the passenger side wheel and the rotor/hub assy.When you take the wheel off you will see it.I have no idea why it's there or if it's really necessary but I put it back.One other problem I had- pound the studs out of the assy. with a brass hammer and this separates the rotor from the hub assy.When I tried pulling the studs into the new rotor/hub assy. I pulled the threads on the studs.I ended up getting new studs and taking the assy to a shop and had the studs pulled in with a air nut gun.

 

Also the 4 bolts that attach the rotor assy to the steering knuckle are 14mm and are torqued to 125# when reinstalled.

 

Instead of pulling the wheel studs in you can use a hammer and punch and drive them back in as well.

 

Once the studs are started in, I bet you could use a socket, maybe some washers and the lug nut to pull them in.

 

Get a flapper wheel that fits a drill or die grinder. After you remove the hub/bearing assembly, you'll want to remove all that rust that was fighting you, then coat it good with antiseize.