Has anyone twisted, bent, or sagged their frames? What caused it?

Has anybody fully boxed their 1st gen frame? Would it even be worth while to consider?

Is there ever any need to add cross members or sub-frames? Triangulated bracing?

I look forward to your answers!

 

I ruined the rear 14" of frame on my 1985 W350 a few years back. Most of the damage I believe started when the receiver hitch started to pull apart. That said, any heavy duty towing on a receiver requires a hitch that spreads the weight as far forward as the next cross member in my opinion to be safest. I boxed and X braced the rear of mine and added a cross member at the very rear, and have had zero problems since.

NoRM

 

Thanks!

From the cab back? Ever heard of any problems under that heavy old CTD out front? or around the tranny, t-case?

 

I bent mine where the bumper attaches and where it go's over the axle in the rear
I also had the suspension blocked for sled pulling it started bouncing then twisted the pinion off my d70 and bent the frame

Aint truck pulls great

 

I am installing a plow right now on my 92 W350. The frame on the front looks really cheesey to me. So I am plating the flanges with .25" x 2" plate to give it some more beef.

I have a friend who plows with Dodges and he has bent the frame near the firewall. So I need to plate there also

 

The above is impressive...but this part "Cab swap coming soon, I put it on it's side WHOOPS!" <---- If you did that truck pulling I want to ride with you

NoRM
still recovering from a truck pulling addiction and thought he was safe in Nebraska

 

I didn't put it on it's side pulling
It ended up on its side after I missed a stop sign at a t intersection on a snowy night

 

what part of york county are you from MunK

 

Seen several crack around the steering gearbox mounting area. Also have replaced many steering gear mount brackets for cracking. Would be a good area for a reinforcement.

 

We live in York, so not too far away actually.

NoRM
who thinks this means I might go to some truck pulls

 

The frames will kink behind the front shock towers from plowing ABUSE. It naturally bends inward after going over the axle, and pushing against it hitting obstacles with the plow really hammers it after a while.I had one thAt someone bent so bad the very bottoms of the fenders and doors touched.On top you could stick your finger in between the fender and door. We prevented this on other trucks by running a set of braces from the bottom of the plow mount, under the axle ,and back to somewhere behind the cab.

 

anyone ever see how chebby 3500hd from the 90's were beefed up? Ive seen a few that look to have an extra plate cut to the contour of the frame then broke for a flange on the bottom, looks very strong, also this is how our 82 f-350 is reinforced, it has a longer wheelbase and a 12 foot dump bed. It is on its 3rd burned out 400, completely worn out truck, horribly abused for like 20 years at my dads landscaping business. The only reason(in my view) that it lasted so long was due to the frame bracing. This is how i plan on doing my truck, at least from the rear shackle on the front leaf back.

 

Thank you for the info

Dean

 

My '93 has been used for years as a 5th wheel hauler. PO towed a 40+'er, I've got a 28.5 (30'). My truck has a v-gap between the bed and cab that I don't remember it having when I got it 6 years ago. Gap is about 1/2 again as wide at the top as at the bottom. I'm not real easy oon it, and lean hard into the boost when pulling away under load.

 

Well I think when I have money for Argon and steel I am going to box the entire frame from end to end. Bracing and such to along the way to. I just have to be careful about the weight. Maybe I can shave some pounds somewhere (like fiberglass fenders or something). Although, weight will help me pull the bumper off my Father in laws Ferd!

Besides the weight addition, Is there any thing to watch out for when boxing the frame? Any areas that crack once welded? I have hear that vehicle frames have a higher carbon level than mild steel. and that they crack at the welds. But then I see all these 4x4 shops MIG-ing all over the place and I have never heard them say anything about it. Do I need special wire? What size plate/sheet would you guys suggest I think 1/4 is way over kill, 1/8 or less ?????

I am glad to see that I am not the only one to have considered this. Thanks for all the input, keep it coming!