I have an ISSPRO FP gauge. I opted to go direct connection instead of using the isolator. My question is, for you that have done the same install, what type of hose did you use from the fitting to the gauge? I would like to run stainless braided all the way, but I can't find a place with the hose and ends I need.

 

Ditch the isolator

save ur money. Im running stainless from the Banjo bolt to where the Isolator used to be, then from there im running a dual male connection to connect both fittings, and oil pressure tubing to a gauge into the cab, center of my three gauge pillar

Rick

 

DEFINATELY not using the isolator. Just making sure standard oil pressure gauge tuging would work.

 

I've had absolutely no problems with nylon 1/8" oil/boost tubing for ten years on my own trucks and many others. Just push it though some larger tubing to protect against kinks, cuts and abrasion.
Copper oil pressure tubing can break from flexing back and forth with engine movement.
Buy it by the foot air brake tubing from the autoparts is the best.

Main problems people run into-
leaks from overtightening compression fittings, hand tight plus one wrench turn is adequate.
Use no teflon tape, it doesn't hold up to diesel. Use Permatex #2 to seal threads.
Use a needle valve closed almost all the way at the head of the line to prevent gauge vibrations and to shut the line down in the unlikely event of a leak.

 

Summit sells the braided stainless lines 6ft length i think with the jic fittings already on the line

 

I use what we use on aircraft. All the wet guage lines that run into cockpit of small aircraft use the same stuff (mostly). My ram I used for a wet Isspro FP guage:

Source: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.html

AN 816-2 (1/8 NPT to -2 AN Nipple) x 2ea. $4.35 ea.

471-2D (-2 Aeroquip Hose Ends) x 2ea. $7.48 ea.

306-2 (Aeroquip 1/8 ID Instrument Hose) X ???? ft. $4.35 ft.


If you want to do your boost guage also, double the order, and get a Piers intake fitting, which will accept the 1/8 AN NPT nipple.


Whatever you do (even 24V engines), install a snubber on the FP guage if you are going wet into the cabin, or the needle will rapidly jump and make a hell of a noise and drive you insane, from the LP pulses

 

I knew this was the right place to ask about this. I looked at Summit but did not know what fittings I needed to go from AN to the fitting on the back of the gauge and the banjo tap.

 

I use hydraulic hose from northen tool, 5000psi. Real cheap in preassembled lengths.

 

I went to a hydraulic shop and picked up some line rated for 3000 psi, real cheap.

 

Same here. I believe it was 1/4" ID. I got a 7' length off a bulk spool at NAPA...used about 6' total. Cheap & effective.
To me, the stainless braided for a FP gauge in our trucks is a waste of $$...mainly because you can't really see much of it. Chaffing is not really aproblem if you use some zip ties.

 

I have braided line on mine all the way up but mine was free! lol but yeah I would get hydraulic line its alot cheaper and strong

 

aint ntohing better than free

 

haha yep thats the only way to go lol

 

Question. Do I need to bleed the line from the needle valve to the gauge? I am assuming so since it will basically be about half filled with air. I plan on holding the gauge over a can/bucket and cracking cycling the pump prior to tightening of the nut on the guage to purge any air.
Thoughts?

 

Nope. I've never bleed any of my gauges, fuel or oil press, and they all work great. I think the trapped air will slowly work its way out.