Dipricol Optix Rail Pressure Questions
#1
Dipricol Optix Rail Pressure Questions
I've been working with the designer of the Rail Pressure Gauge for Dipricol for a few months now trying to diagnose a problem I've been having with my gauge. He's got a few questions of othe people successfully running the gauge. First I'll tell you my problem. If I'm running around town (lower speed) situations, my gauge will read fine for a while, then read low. If I'm running down the interstate (faster speeds > 55) It reads high and has even pegged the gauge. I've got a disconnect built in so that I can cycle power to the gauges with my remote starter and when they're reset, with the engine still running, the gauge works again. Also the gauge showed accurately with my stock CP3. We had finally decided to put a newer model gauge in it with better electrical insulation but it still acts the same.
He was wanting to know if anybody is successfully running the gauge with the following:
Stereo (Subs)
Upgraded or dual CP3's
Glacier lift pump
Gauge wired into the stereo power
Any help or input is appreciated.
Thanks
He was wanting to know if anybody is successfully running the gauge with the following:
Stereo (Subs)
Upgraded or dual CP3's
Glacier lift pump
Gauge wired into the stereo power
Any help or input is appreciated.
Thanks
#2
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I have run it since may with Industrial's stage II CP3. I also have a Carter pump. The only issues I have is the readings seem low. At idle 5500 - at WOT between 17000 and 20000. Lots of guys say they see 7000 at idle and high 20's at WOT.
#3
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Mine was doing exactly what you describe. Got a new gauge and it's been fine since. Of the items you listed, I have the GDP lift pump kit. My power comes directly from the fuse box.
#4
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Mine has started to do that too...reads fine for a while...then low.
I hope it has nothing to do with my radar jammer...
I have turned it off a few times and it seems like my gauge still reads ok for a while...then low.
Doug Leno is getting back to me at some point...he figures anything out.
It has happened bfore only once...now all the time after my Stage 2.
I hope it has nothing to do with my radar jammer...
I have turned it off a few times and it seems like my gauge still reads ok for a while...then low.
Doug Leno is getting back to me at some point...he figures anything out.
It has happened bfore only once...now all the time after my Stage 2.
#6
I have the things in my sig and the gauge worked well with my stock cp3 but when I put the floor it pump on it does the same thing you all are experiencing. I have tried a new gauge from dipricol and it still acts the same. If you all think there will be a fix let me know because I am about to try the quad rail gauge. Jay
#7
Doug is the guy I've been talking to. From talking to him it sounded like I was the only one that the new gauge. Maybe I was just the only one who complained about it again. :-)
The latest I've noticed is if I turn up my sub, the needle on the rail pressure will boune with the beat. Doug says he's stumped so we're just trying to see what other people have that are having success and others without success.
The latest I've noticed is if I turn up my sub, the needle on the rail pressure will boune with the beat. Doug says he's stumped so we're just trying to see what other people have that are having success and others without success.
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#8
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I'm running a bunch of stereo stuff, subs, and the Glacier Diesel walbro fuel kit. I think you may have a ground problem. I've installed a BUNCH of extra electronics (10 gauges, 2 amps, 4 crossovers, equalizer, component speakers, 15+ lights, relays, add-on navigation system, radar detector, and on and on), and I had some gauges doing funny things too.
I don't understand things fully, as it seems to me like the whole truck is "grounded", but I tried changing the grounding location, and every problem went away. Try separating the grounds for different components, especially separating the ground wires for the stereo/sub/amp/etc from the gauge. If this doesn't work, try the same thing, but with the power wires.
Somehow, if things are tied together too tightly, there is almost always interference; however, if space is put in between connections (maybe the little bit of resistance between ground points is enough to do away with the noise?), the problems can be solved. --Eric
I don't understand things fully, as it seems to me like the whole truck is "grounded", but I tried changing the grounding location, and every problem went away. Try separating the grounds for different components, especially separating the ground wires for the stereo/sub/amp/etc from the gauge. If this doesn't work, try the same thing, but with the power wires.
Somehow, if things are tied together too tightly, there is almost always interference; however, if space is put in between connections (maybe the little bit of resistance between ground points is enough to do away with the noise?), the problems can be solved. --Eric
#9
I'm running a bunch of stereo stuff, subs, and the Glacier Diesel walbro fuel kit. I think you may have a ground problem. I've installed a BUNCH of extra electronics (10 gauges, 2 amps, 4 crossovers, equalizer, component speakers, 15+ lights, relays, add-on navigation system, radar detector, and on and on), and I had some gauges doing funny things too.
I don't understand things fully, as it seems to me like the whole truck is "grounded", but I tried changing the grounding location, and every problem went away. Try separating the grounds for different components, especially separating the ground wires for the stereo/sub/amp/etc from the gauge. If this doesn't work, try the same thing, but with the power wires.
Somehow, if things are tied together too tightly, there is almost always interference; however, if space is put in between connections (maybe the little bit of resistance between ground points is enough to do away with the noise?), the problems can be solved. --Eric
I don't understand things fully, as it seems to me like the whole truck is "grounded", but I tried changing the grounding location, and every problem went away. Try separating the grounds for different components, especially separating the ground wires for the stereo/sub/amp/etc from the gauge. If this doesn't work, try the same thing, but with the power wires.
Somehow, if things are tied together too tightly, there is almost always interference; however, if space is put in between connections (maybe the little bit of resistance between ground points is enough to do away with the noise?), the problems can be solved. --Eric
#10
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03 truck's idle at a lower rail pressure. I get the same idle pressure reading with my SPA rail pressure gauge before or after the modded CP3 installation.
#11
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Basic electrical/electronic theory & practice:
separate grounds (noun & verb!)
separate power supply (ditto)
when it doubt - shield it out (EMI is simple and cheap to "fix")
separate grounds (noun & verb!)
separate power supply (ditto)
when it doubt - shield it out (EMI is simple and cheap to "fix")
#12
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#14
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What pressure do you see cruising between 55 and 70mph? I am getting 12000, 12500 or thereabouts. Its always concerned me becasue of seeing some other members posted rail pressures... But one member on here told me to watch the recovery time of the pressure after shifts or after acceleration - he said that was what should be watched - when I watch this it recovers extremely quick.
It is a relief to hear that the 03's run a little low by design.
Thanks
It is a relief to hear that the 03's run a little low by design.
Thanks
#15