Was wondering if anyone could post a complete torque sequence and frequency when dealing with a new head gasket & a new o ringed head? I will be getting my head back on Friday and want to do it right, the first time!!! Thanks guys...

 

Courtesy of Jetpilot. I've heard different torque specs with regards to how thick the wire is, so I'm not sure. Might want to pm Jetpilot and give him some info.

 

In that sequence, something like 50lb, 70lb, 90lb, Put rockers back on start it up and idle, to operating temp. Shut off let it cool down about half way. and Retorque to 110lb, drive around for a week and baby it, going through a few heat cycles. Then torque to 120lb. And it should be good. Maybe another one after a month or two depending on what your doing with the truck. Big hp, Nitrous

 

I'll find out how thick the rings are when it's done today.

 

At the time I did mine.... got bad instructions...or else it was the way it use to be done back then?? At the time, I did not know better.

Took it straight to 100 psi.... drove it to full warm and then, after short cool down, torqued all to 125psi.

It has held for 3.5 yrs and quit frankly, I have been afraid to touch it. I did check (at 125 psi...without loosening) after 1 yr.... none were off.

How concerned would you head experts be if this was your head? Let sleeping dogs lie... or retorque properly?

RJ

 

You could break them loose one at a time and add some ARP lube torque back to 120 for reasurance, when you feel like wrenchin on something one day.

 

pretty much following jetpilots suggestions, i did 20-40-60-80-100, and assembled, warmed up to operating temp, let it sit for 2 hours to slowly cool, then with it still slightly warm, i took the rockers off, and torqued again to 120, taking the nuts off and adding more ARB lube to each one. then went around again, just barely cracking them loose and torqued each one down to 128.

after 5 weeks i went back and did a spot check...basically every studs but the ones you cant get to without removing the rockers. all of them were still snug at 128, no turns on any of them. since then i have let them be.been a year of 55psi and no issues yet, and always let the engine warm up before seeing over 15psi.

 

Any other directions or tips???

 

You got the holes bottom taped yet, i would recomend doing that.

 

Nope. With this tap it seems to make the studs too wobbly when screwed in. I know I have the right tap so I decided against it. I'm just going to screw them all the way in and back them out a 1/2 turn. I'm just looking for a final sequence and frequency on re-torque's?

 

they have diffrent size taps. if its making it loose then you probly have a G5 tap you could get a G3 and it should keep it tight.

 

Finally got the head back yesterday all o-ringed up. Going to tackle it on Monday. Any final tips? should a guy lay down the head first and then install all the studs? Boy, I might forget how to put it all back together as it has been a while since I took it apart!!!

 

Head down then studs, Studs bottomed out then 1/2 turn out (I bottom tapped mine), Make sure you lube each side of washer and under nut, Any way you want to get them to 120 just in increments 4 or 5 steps, 4-5 heat cycles then check them back to 120, 1 month or so crack em' loose 1 at a time and then 80Ft Lbs. then to 130 Ft Lbs. Just my way of doing it ! I think most of the head stud breakage is do to the stud bottoming out in the block and the stud twisting and breaking instead of the stud just streching JMO. Figure someone will say something about 130.
Brandon

 

How much ARP lube does a person use on the stud threads that go into the block???What is the max torque using the ARP lube???

 

I used none in the block, dab on the threads up top be generous on the washer and nut! P.S. I forgot to mention keep boost low untill all re-torques are done!
Brandon