davelinde

Can anyone give me some direction here? I don't know that much about transmissions but I am pretty mechanically inclined... Before recently I never had much interest -- but now I'm towing heavier (14,000#) and looking at HP mods... and wanting a tranny that is "bullet proof". I've gotten a few quotes from folks mentioned here, but I still have not found a very local shop to go talk to. (the one small shop I stopped at was very much against the aftermarket parts... they wanted to rebuild me with stock parts only).

I need to get smarter and was hoping this forum could give me a crash course.

So... what can I change and what does it do? Here's what I've heard about and how I understand it. Please correct/amplify!!

Torque Converter - TC - a device that works fluid coupled to allow slipping or locked. This will take the brunt of the load and needs to be strong enough both to carry the direct load and slip as needed under load. I guess "bigger" is better? The aftermarket folks advertise triple disk TC's (I guess stock is not triple?). They seem to cost 500$ +/- and everyone says to get a better one... OK

Valve Body - VB - I have no idea, does it pump fluid? I get the impression they create pressure (that could help a TC stay locked??) Again they cost $500 +/- and everyone says to get one (some even say just get the VB and use the stock TC).

Billet Shafts - I assume these are shafts to carry power from the flywheel to the drive shaft somehow. I guess that Billet is nice and strong? I guess that people are snapping shafts? so stronger is good... I suppose that if the engine is making power and the TC/VB are holding it, then shafts must be strong. The bad news is that they seem to cost $700 +/- AND there are THREE of them (input/intermediate/output). Everyone seems to say you only need these if you want to race... or MAYBE to tow heavy. They seem to be the last option -- but pricey! Do I need them? dunno

Shift kit - I've heard these derided, as in "built trannies are more than just a shift kit" AND praised, as in "get a shift kit first and see if that's enough". What the heck are they? They work with the VB (or are they another term FOR the VB?) I have not seen these things priced yet.

Flex plate - I have no idea on this one...

Other internal parts - eg seals, bearings, fluid flow ports... the Goerend site has a nice impressive list of things they will do to a 48RE core to improve it. All of it sounds wonderful to have, but it all comes with a price and for all new internals you pretty much get a whole new tranny for $5000 or so (not counting the install and shipping... but everyone RAVES about Goerend so...)

In my case I have no experience with transmissions and I'm NOT up to order the parts and figure out how to install them myself. So, labor costs are going to be a factor here. Do all these parts need someone to drop the tranny to install them? Is there a logical upgrade sequence? EG, could I install a shift kit first? Then later a VB, then later a TC? or would that triple my install costs and double my total costs? At what point do you just buy a complete new tranny and swap the core (vs incremental upgrades on your own core?)

THANKS! Of late I'm leaning towards spending some $$'s on my (pre-emissions) 2004.0 and making it work as my tow vehicle. To do that I need to understand my 48RE and upgrades better and I KNOW guys here have done this already and can help me think.

soulezoo

OK, whoa!! You got some help. First, you're gonna get a lot of opinions... I will give you mine. Anybody that tells you to get stock parts... well, just part company with them. There are several builders that know what they are doing with these trannys to make them as bullet proof as you need. The better ones will only sell you what you need. The shops that fall into this catagory are Goerend Bros, HTS, DTT, Suncoast, NADP, and ATS Dunrite and Ultimate trannies too. Everyone here has their favorite. You can choose a tranny from them, have it built, shipped to you, and then installed by someone local to you who knows what they are doing.

As far as parts go... stick with one of the guys above for the whole shebang... don't go mixing and matching parts because you got a deal on a T/C and another on a V/B and etc... you'll end up with a junked out tranny that doesn't work right.

WIth what you are towing, I would recommend a heavy duty rebuild from Goerends, It is what I got and it has performed flawlessly. It is taking 700+ hp and towing heavy with no issues at all. I have his LIFETIME WARRANTIED triple disc T/C. They will match the T/C to what you do. I would also get a billet input. The other two are not necessary unless you plan high HP and a lot of racing and locked up shifts. The rest of the tranny rebuild will take care of all the other little parts and upgrades needed (like clutches and levers and what not) so you don't have to worry about that. All the builders I listed above know what to do. Lastly, a flexplate is a good idea once you are towing heavy and get close to 500hp. It is possible to rip out the center of the stock flexplate. Opinions vary on whether billet or laminated is better. I have the laminated with zero issues. It is cheaper too. If I was getting a new flexplate today, I would get the BD one.

Hope that helps, and it is a start as others will fill in the blanks I left

davelinde

THANKS. My reactions.
First YES, the guys who said "a stock re-build is all you need" are off my list.

Next, I'm inclined to agree that a whole rebuild is superior to changing out one thing at a time to end up with a patchwork rebuild. STILL, the costs are not minor here and if $500 will do it I'm reluctant to drop $5000.

All I hear about Goerends is all good so far. Boy it must be nice to have that kind of reputation on-line.

For the flexplate and billet. Why just the input? And for the 500 HP number... right now I'm at a stock 305 (with FAR less to the wheels I'm sure). I could use a couple few more ponies but the choices I've seen are 345, 375 or 405... and I'm gonna bet I can live with 375 or less. For sure never 500. So for shafts and plates... am I a candidate?

Cummins610

Can anyone give me some direction here? I don't know that much about transmissions but I am pretty mechanically inclined... Before recently I never had much interest -- but now I'm towing heavier (14,000#) and looking at HP mods... and wanting a tranny that is "bullet proof". I've gotten a few quotes from folks mentioned here, but I still have not found a very local shop to go talk to. (the one small shop I stopped at was very much against the aftermarket parts... they wanted to rebuild me with stock parts only).

I need to get smarter and was hoping this forum could give me a crash course.

So... what can I change and what does it do? Here's what I've heard about and how I understand it. Please correct/amplify!!

Torque Converter - TC - a device that works fluid coupled to allow slipping or locked. This will take the brunt of the load and needs to be strong enough both to carry the direct load and slip as needed under load. I guess "bigger" is better? The aftermarket folks advertise triple disk TC's (I guess stock is not triple?). They seem to cost 500$ +/- and everyone says to get a better one... OK

Dodge torque converters as very conservative on how much power they transfer to the rest of the transmission,when you upgrade you torque converter they will install a "tighter" TC so that you motor will work harder and smarter than just revving while accellerating, the transmission will actually feel like its connected to the motor. Stock converter is 1 disk,the more disks the more clutch material the better

Valve Body - VB - I have no idea, does it pump fluid? I get the impression they create pressure (that could help a TC stay locked??) Again they cost $500 +/- and everyone says to get one (some even say just get the VB and use the stock TC).

Valve body controls shifting and pressure,The TC and VB should be both replaced,

Billet Shafts - I assume these are shafts to carry power from the flywheel to the drive shaft somehow. I guess that Billet is nice and strong? I guess that people are snapping shafts? so stronger is good... I suppose that if the engine is making power and the TC/VB are holding it, then shafts must be strong. The bad news is that they seem to cost $700 +/- AND there are THREE of them (input/intermediate/output). Everyone seems to say you only need these if you want to race... or MAYBE to tow heavy. They seem to be the last option -- but pricey! Do I need them? dunno

You should only need a billett input for what you are doin, the shafts are internally inside the transmission

Shift kit - I've heard these derided, as in "built trannies are more than just a shift kit" AND praised, as in "get a shift kit first and see if that's enough". What the heck are they? They work with the VB (or are they another term FOR the VB?) I have not seen these things priced yet.

A shift kit replaces he springs in the VB to achieve harder shifts,With a Aftermarket VB you don't need a shift kit because they are already with firmer springs.

Flex plate - I have no idea on this one...

A Flex Plate connects the Flywheel to the TC, you should to it since yourtranny is out of the truck

Other internal parts - eg seals, bearings, fluid flow ports... the Goerend site has a nice impressive list of things they will do to a 48RE core to improve it. All of it sounds wonderful to have, but it all comes with a price and for all new internals you pretty much get a whole new tranny for $5000 or so (not counting the install and shipping... but everyone RAVES about Goerend so...)

A new goerend tranny is about $3800 with everything new inside with a good converter and VB

In my case I have no experience with transmissions and I'm NOT up to order the parts and figure out how to install them myself. So, labor costs are going to be a factor here. Do all these parts need someone to drop the tranny to install them? Is there a logical upgrade sequence? EG, could I install a shift kit first? Then later a VB, then later a TC? or would that triple my install costs and double my total costs? At what point do you just buy a complete new tranny and swap the core (vs incremental upgrades on your own core?)

For a VB or a shift kit you do not need to drop the tranny. A TC and VB are a must first off,don't waste you money on a shift kit.

THANKS! Of late I'm leaning towards spending some $$'s on my (pre-emissions) 2004.0 and making it work as my tow vehicle. To do that I need to understand my 48RE and upgrades better and I KNOW guys here have done this already and can help me think.

I helped as best I could maybe other people can expand further

Cummins610

Botton Line, if you just towing with a kinda stock truck a aftermarket TC with a VB will make you a happy camper but.....

$1050 for a TC $495 for a VB + $500 install and $200 fluid

$2245 all set and done while a full tranny without the fancy shafts will run you $4450 all set and done. Is to worth the extra $2200,my opinion,yes,do it once do it right. READ HERE---you have a 48re