ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

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Old 12-13-2012, 10:14 AM
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So,, I am kinda confused by these pole sheds,,, My thoughts of a pole shed is what we used to have on the farm that we put the machinery into.. there was no real good way to heat them etc, or am I missing something? What or why would you go to a pole shed as opposed to a (what I would call) normal shop?
Old 12-13-2012, 12:27 PM
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Look into "SIPS" Structural Insulated Panels you won't be sorry..
Old 12-13-2012, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by morkable
So,, I am kinda confused by these pole sheds,,, My thoughts of a pole shed is what we used to have on the farm that we put the machinery into.. there was no real good way to heat them etc, or am I missing something? What or why would you go to a pole shed as opposed to a (what I would call) normal shop?
The outside of the walls are already strapped to secure the tin to, so you strap the walls inside horizontally the same as outside then insulate, vapor barrier then drywall over just like you would a house, blow in insulation in the ceiling after vapor barrier and drywall. The building can be as tight as you make the vapor barrier and almost as warm as a house. Overhead forced air gas furnace/furnaces work best for quick recovery especially if one entire wall is a door. If you are confused by them I would suggest taking a lot closer look before building anything. We built a lot of these with just two guys then rent a crane for 4 hours to crane the roof sections into place.
Old 12-13-2012, 04:07 PM
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It sounds like I had better look closer for sure
Old 12-13-2012, 08:39 PM
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Since Im 60kms from town out on the farm, finding a carpenter to travel wont be easy either. I have looked @ 3 business that make "pole sheds" McDiarmid from Alberta, Integrity Post Structures from Alberta, Goodon Industries from Mantioba. Our truck dealer used Goodon. Im leaning towards Integrity as they have an upgraded in cement posts that go 5ft in the ground. Then there is a 1ft above ground & build off that. Insulation is R40 in the roof, R28 for the walls. The posts are 2x8, so it strong enough. No idea if stick built is any better, but these building will be built in less than a week. Then add cement later. These are pole sheds that farmers build, they are come with engieered plans. These buildings are still stick built, just dont start on a cement pad is all. The wood posts that the other 2 companys used have a life spand of 30+ yrs.
Old 12-13-2012, 09:34 PM
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where abouts do you live?

So if I am understanding this correctly, with a pole shed you dont have to build a foundation wall. Just pour a floor after it is built?
Old 12-13-2012, 10:19 PM
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Live outside small town of Paradise Valley, its between Lloydminster & Wainwright. Lloydminster is so busy running around in circles, I will never get it built by anybody local. All those business that I listed will show up to your place build in 3 to 4 days, depending on size. Then another crew comes about a week later, installs the overhead door. The truck dealer ship I work @, had a 24x40 with 14ft walls built in 2.5 days this summer. Its for extra parts storage. Since its in the city, had to have permits, engieer drawings, etc. This building wasn't insulated or tinned on the inside. Cement was poured couple months later. Yrs ago, parts had a outside building built on a cement pad, then stick building put up. This new "pole shed" doesnt look any different inside to me. Other than 2x6's (pole shed) were used instead of 2x4(stick built). Also all of these builders ask for a certain gravel to put around the post for water drainage. So no pad is needed for this type buildings. I have no clue about buildings, like everybody, they will always no more than the next guy. But this building will work great for me, fast & I dont have build anything. Buddy has been building a 40x60 for the last couple yrs, last he told was knocking on $75,000. Its less than 10mins from Lloyd. Still hasnt insulated ceiling or got heat yet.
Old 12-14-2012, 08:59 AM
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What kind of dollars did they quote you on this? Did you get quotes from many different places? I am really thinking a 40 x 60
Old 12-14-2012, 07:22 PM
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I got 3 quotes, I started with a 40x60. Prices were $44,000 to $48,000. But I dont really need that big. Also cause I dont have unlimited funds oilfield type job. So I went 30x40, prices dropped about 10g. Still have to add cement, electrical, heat. Looking @ spending over $50g or more to have it finished. Yes I could save $ if I did some of it. But Im not a carpenter, no idea how to do cement, not a gas fitter, etc.
Old 12-14-2012, 10:17 PM
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For 44k what did that include?
Old 12-15-2012, 01:39 AM
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Thats alot of typing. Pm me your email address. I will try forwarding the email to you. If that doest work I can fax it or mail the quote.
Old 12-15-2012, 09:50 AM
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Holly. Take away finishing land cost............and they are charging for more than the price of a house of the same square footage.

I just ran the numbers against the house we built in Fort Sask. Building the house was cheaper than a shop. I think these guys are ridiculously priced because they can be. JMHO.

Hopefully you guys can run into a more reasonable solution. I think I personally would calling in every single favour from anyone known to own a hammer.
Old 12-15-2012, 01:15 PM
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You can work out the cost yourself for a pole shed. I don't know now how high of a ceiling you want but I would suggest 12 foot. So place the 6X6, 8 foot on center and allow 4 foot in the ground so 16 foot 6X6. You can use 4X6 across the front and back. Use residential trusses 2 foot on center and use a truss for the gable ends. Across the back we ran the posts all the way to the top of the truss to stabilize the roof structure. double 2X10X16 foot nailed together on the outside sitting on a notched post, string a line, mark then notch the posts after setting with road crush that way you can be off a little with the post heights. We would mark 4 foot up from the bottom of each post as a quick reference when setting. 2X10 at top on the inside then bolt through each post. Allow the posts to sit for awhile before notching, small chain saw works well. Strap horizontally inside and out using 2X4, use pressure treated 2X6 at bottom. If installing man doors allow extra posts preferably in front or rear. Roof strapping can be 2X4 or 2X6 and 2 foot on center. We liked 3 foot wide sheeting, less joints, pre drill all holes in metal before installing, we just drilled each stack of metal on the ground, make sure that your strapping is straight. As I mentioned before it works well to build the roof in 12 foor long sections on the ground brace and strap them but no sheeting then crane into position, two guys one each side works with a hired crane operator. We just used one mounted to a semi tractor. Metal sheeting.. Hardened or non hardened your choice just get it custom cut to length so one piece does top to bottom roof and walls, sheet the gable ends separate and get the capping for roof but you can use 90 deg flashing and paint with tremcald for trim on corners, much cheaper.

We would level the site with a cat then if room permits get a big drill in, it may cost a few $ more per hour than a bob cat but will be done in a fraction of the time. We would build these using a deck mounted full length on a pick up truck and extended out slightly so you can get close to the wall, one guy at each end of the deck makes it easy to get the beams into place. There I have just about built it for you. One thing I cannot stress enough... BRACE YOUR TRUSSES WELL once in position as you never know what the weather will do.
Old 12-15-2012, 06:26 PM
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I have my own skid steer, so I will be able to do all that work myself. I will rent a auger for my skid steer and drill the holes etc.

I have quite a few trees to move which will suck a bit.

I can also do alot of the work myself on the shop (anything that I dont need an extra set of hands)
Old 12-16-2012, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by morkable
I have my own skid steer, so I will be able to do all that work myself. I will rent a auger for my skid steer and drill the holes etc.

I have quite a few trees to move which will suck a bit.

I can also do alot of the work myself on the shop (anything that I dont need an extra set of hands)
I have my own skid steer and auger wouldn't be without one now, back then it was easier and quicker to just pick up the phone. If you do go the pole shed way you need a 12 inch diameter hole for a 6X6 post I would not go down to a 9 inch as there is not enough wiggle room and you need the post pretty accurate.


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