HotRodTodd

The new evaporator I was putting in the other day was $160.50 from the dealer, I'm sure you can find a cheaper one. A generic drier, $50-$75, PAG oil, $8.00 and a few cans of 134A and you are good to go.
Just do it right the first time and be done with it.

rolling18

thanks for ALL the suggestions,
unfortunatly, I dont have the time or skill to remove it myself.. i found steps in these forums wayyy to involved for me.

i also dont have the $$$$.

thanks to the aluminum solder suggestion i think i will try that first. i found this site http://www.muggyweld.com/index2.html wich looks like it would work great!

i know the rest of my system is fine. i only have the one small drilled hole to fill.
im thinking a fine threaded sheet metal skrew, then aluminum soldering to seal arround the screw edges (mabey the JB weld idea) . then have a a/c place test it for leaks...... is JB good for high pressure seals?

and if none of these works ill go from there.
thanks again!!

HotRodTodd

Your system has been open to the environment for how long now?
If, BIG IF, you do manage to seal the hole, you are still going to need a drier, oil, and 134A.

Jeff in TD

Man, I was really sorry to hear about your luck. I did the same kit, and pulled the fan motor down just to verify where the directions said to drill was ahead of the evaporator...

Removing the dash doesn't look like that big of a deal, and I would guess is well within your ability.

This thread might be helpful.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=210483

I think if I were in your shoes, I'd buy the evap, pull the dash and disassemble the HVAC to clean it out, and put in the replacement.

Then take it to an AC shop and have them run the vacuum pump on it for a while so there's no moisture, then recharge.

Between the evap and recharge, it hopefully wouldn't be all that expensive- when you aren't paying shop rate for someone to pop off plastic pieces and unscrew the dash.

Jeff in TD

The link above deals with the HVAC.

I meant to link to this thread also, where on page 2 there are nice photos of how the dash comes out.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...removal&page=2

dezeldog

im thinking a fine threaded sheet metal skrew, then aluminum soldering to seal arround the screw edges (mabey the JB weld idea) . then have a a/c place test it for leaks...... is JB good for high pressure seals?

and if none of these works ill go from there.
thanks again!![/QUOTE]

I'm not sure if the aluminum soldier will adhere to the sheetmetal screw. Maybe the JBweld would be a better idea.

Jim

steelblitzkrieg

So how much restriction is this screw going to cause on the Evaporator?

Jeff in TD

Man, considering how long it takes to pull the dash apart, and pull the HVAC apart, and that a new evaporator is like $113 there's no way I'd attempt to repair the old one.

My luck, some JB weld or other debris would get in the system and plug the oraface tube or take out the compressor or something.

Usually I'm all over any way to save a few bucks by doing something yourself or fixing something instead of replacing it, but trying to fix the evaporator... I think the $113 in this case would be money well spent.

Busboy

Up here there is a tax on AC systems $100 which is charged on guess what part of the AC system? The evaporator! So that's why we always tried to repair them. My last one was $400 plus tax so if you can get one for $113 it would be advisable to go that way. Pulling the heater plenum out is not that difficult and if you get the AC shop to vacuum it out and leak ck recharge it, it shouldn't cost that much. I guess it boils down to "do I feel lucky" cause you could be opening a whole can o worms.
Even if NO debris has entered the system the sheet metal screw will certainly restrict flow somewhat and should it leak later (which I can almost guarantee it will) you will be stuck with another recharge at best. Don't forget the thermal expansion and contraction of the two metals will be different so I cant see a screw lasting. Also should any debris get in it will plug the calibrated orifice which controls the rate of expansion of the freon through the evaporator. This will cause improper cooling and high head pressures at best. At worst compressor destruction or blown high pressure lines or condenser. My 2 cents

DGraham1023

Expensive lesson learned, but I think replacing the evaporator and drier is best thing you can do!!

rolling18

welp i GOT it out!!!! finally after a couple hrs

turns out i wayyy over disassembled i took out the glovebox, cupholder assy. radio, all supporting plastics..everything behind those too wow!!

and as a bonus i found the source of my urine odor!! in the part of the unit driver side with all the holes..

Jeff in TD

Excellent.

rolling18

where did people get there prices for parts so cheap??

the dealer wanted 282 for evap and 127 for drier!! OMFG!!!!

Jeff in TD

I just googled discount dodge parts, or something like that.

I picked one, wholesalemopar.com, and looked it up. Haven't ever done buisness with them...

You might also check your local AC shop. If you buy the parts from him, he might give you a better deal on drying and recharging the system, and might be more likely to warranty his work.

rolling18

ok I got a evaporator from Napa for 90$ (China made .UHHH)
and everything is back together!!! and actually working.. (minus A/C till i get it all charged up and a new drier)
and the smell is gone too