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100* and no air conditioning :(

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Old 07-25-2014, 11:45 AM
  #16  
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The "new" compressor you got had been installed dry by someone, immediately seized up, and returned with no explanation. Some of O'Reilly's counter help ain't real swift.

I went to rent an exhaust pipe expander once, opened the box, and it was broken, as in fractured in many places.
Old 07-25-2014, 01:09 PM
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I learned the hard way about using a remanned compressor. I now only buy brand new, but not from Murray or For Seizen.
Old 07-25-2014, 03:01 PM
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This compressor was still shrink wrapped onto a piece of cardboard when I got it, but after the incident with all of the bad evaporators I should have known something would be wrong, it is just so frustrating.

The tag on the compressor claims it to have an oil charge of ICE32 and not to remove it.

http://www.ice32.com/index.htm

I called OReilly's this morning after 2 hours of sleep and told the counter person that the compressor that I got last night was junk, told him that It was seized when I took it out of the box and that there was no oil in it.

He told me that they do not come with oil in them and that i must have done something wrong, I said do not argue, I have been working on air conditioning longer than you have been born.

I said I need a new compressor today and he said OK I can have you one here by 3:00 P.M. but you will have to talk to the manager about the warranty.

I said you are not hearing me, The compressor was seized and had no oil out of the box.

If he wants to argue I have pictures with a time stamp.

The guy I talked to last night was nice and he will be there when I pick it up.

My adventure continues.

Jim
Old 07-25-2014, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rrgrassi
I learned the hard way about using a remanned compressor. I now only buy brand new, but not from Murray or For Seizen.
Unfortunately I am stuck on this one, the soonest I could get a new one is from NAPA for $429.00 in about 10 days and I have to pay shipping and I would bet it is a Chinese knock off.

Jim
Old 07-25-2014, 08:03 PM
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Jim,

The lower water connection need for the Sanden SD-709 is available from Cummins. I don't have the number handy at the moment but I do know it's floating around the forum here somewhere. Check my thread when I converted mine. There may be mention of it in there. When I installed and charged my system, it was also recommend that I replace the expansion valve. I bought a new one from AutoZone. Looked great with the exception of the cycling switch port was on the wrong side, facing the fender when installed and not nearly enough room for the switch itself. I returned it and cleaned mine up well with some brake/carb cleaner.

Compressors SHOULD have oil in them but it is a good idea to remove the fill plug and verify. I did that as well when I bought a new SD-709.

I called a local 1800 Radiator office over in Orange and was able to get the compressor for under $300.
Old 07-25-2014, 09:29 PM
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And it continues,
So around noon I got a call that they have another compressor waiting for me, told him I will be there in a few.

So I brought back the bad one and set it on the counter luckily the guy I got it from last night was there so there were no problems returning it, the guy I had talked to earlier that was Mr know it all was sheepish and never came out.

I took the new one and commented that I hope all of the parts are inside and went home.

I pulled out the Ez-Up and got to work,

I removed the lines from the condenser to flush and now I think I found the reason for the high suction pressures.

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I pulled all of this out of the smaller port that goes to the receiver/drier.

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Most of this came from the lower port but I also pulled some out of the top.

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The only place I could thing this would have come from is the inside of the hose.

The only thing I can figure is that the inside of the hose came apart unless there is something inside of the muffler other than a baffle.

When I replaced the hoses, I could only get the suction hose, an OEM from Chrysler.

Auto Zone has the discharge hose but I took it back because after it is installed the hose has a big kink in the middle where they were not crimped properly, more that one was like this so I gave up on it.

So now what I think I need to do is to have a male fitting welded on the condenser connection so I can connect with 2 female fittings and leave out the muffler, also I will need a fitting for the receiver/drier.

Jimbo,
I was going to give you a call, who did you find to make your hoses? did you have to weld any fittings?

Oh yes,
I have to replace my condenser, going to get it tomorrow, going with the stock replacement, hope it is the right one,
I am quickly loosing faith in mankind, or at least the ones at the auto parts.

Jim
Old 07-26-2014, 08:13 AM
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my ac shop in Hesperia welds a connection to alter manifold, the high side assembly is not available, we just remade all the hose connections so they have steel barbs and are future replaceable, the hard one is getting the evap manifold into the sleeve compressor, we did the big hose first, then the small line from the dryer. ive got a number for a shop near you that does the same, on my bigger jobs I use them for custom condensers and dual hose applications. pm me if you want it.
Old 07-26-2014, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
And it continues,
So around noon I got a call that they have another compressor waiting for me, told him I will be there in a few.

So I brought back the bad one and set it on the counter luckily the guy I got it from last night was there so there were no problems returning it, the guy I had talked to earlier that was Mr know it all was sheepish and never came out.

I took the new one and commented that I hope all of the parts are inside and went home.

I pulled out the Ez-Up and got to work,

I removed the lines from the condenser to flush and now I think I found the reason for the high suction pressures.



I pulled all of this out of the smaller port that goes to the receiver/drier.



Most of this came from the lower port but I also pulled some out of the top.



The only place I could thing this would have come from is the inside of the hose.

The only thing I can figure is that the inside of the hose came apart unless there is something inside of the muffler other than a baffle.

When I replaced the hoses, I could only get the suction hose, an OEM from Chrysler.

Auto Zone has the discharge hose but I took it back because after it is installed the hose has a big kink in the middle where they were not crimped properly, more that one was like this so I gave up on it.

So now what I think I need to do is to have a male fitting welded on the condenser connection so I can connect with 2 female fittings and leave out the muffler, also I will need a fitting for the receiver/drier.

Jimbo,
I was going to give you a call, who did you find to make your hoses? did you have to weld any fittings?

Oh yes,
I have to replace my condenser, going to get it tomorrow, going with the stock replacement, hope it is the right one,
I am quickly loosing faith in mankind, or at least the ones at the auto parts.

Jim
Jim. take your whole hose assembly down to the ac shop and they can duplicate the thing exactly. Here it cost 50 bucks per hose, not cheap, but an option...Mark
Old 07-26-2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Jimbo,
I was going to give you a call, who did you find to make your hoses? did you have to weld any fittings?

Jim
I had a friend of mine who is semi-retired from the automotive heating/cooling business help me build the hoses. He directed me to a parts supplier for the ferrules and fittings I needed. He had the crimp tool and barrier hose I needed already. He took the flanges with him to work one day and had the ferrules brazed to them for me. I could put you in contact with him if you'd like. Really funny and cool old Armenian guy. Very knowledgeable!
Old 07-26-2014, 06:29 PM
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Jimbo

I can braze the fittings or know a guy who will TIG them if needed but I cannot find any place that specializes in automotive fittings anywhere locally,

It is driving me crazy when nobody knows what I am talking about,
I just got 2, driers from OReilly's and he could not under stand why I would not take them after their have sat open in the box.

When you built your liquid line did you leave off the muffler?
How did you connect the inlet to the drier, o-ring or flange?

I am going to try another line from 4-Seasons but if the fit is still bad I will have to make one.
Jim
Old 07-26-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Jimbo

I can braze the fittings or know a guy who will TIG them if needed but I cannot find any place that specializes in automotive fittings anywhere locally,

It is driving me crazy when nobody knows what I am talking about,
I just got 2, driers from OReilly's and he could not under stand why I would not take them after their have sat open in the box.

When you built your liquid line did you leave off the muffler?
How did you connect the inlet to the drier, o-ring or flange?

I am going to try another line from 4-Seasons but if the fit is still bad I will have to make one.
Jim
Jim, have you tried that ac shop that you mentioned earlier? If not, they might sell you what you need...Mark
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:40 AM
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Ok, here is the latest,

I have a new condenser on order and it will be here tomorrow,

I have the truck ready to install it when I get home from meeting my son tomorrow for breakfast,

I have the front of the core support all cleaned and waxed so the air will slip in faster with less resistance....kidding.

I was able to get a replacement liquid line and muffler from OReilly's just hope it fits, if not I will be making one somehow.

So far what I can figure out is that the inside of the discharge hose came apart nd the rubber from the hose clogged the condenser, the pressure had no place to go it probably vented through the relief (yes I should replace it even though it is new)

I do not think there is any way anything could have gotten through the suction side since it would have to go through the h-valve so the suction hose should be OK,

But what about what was inside the compressor, how did it get there, It was not rubber pieces from the hose, it looks like part of a gasket, thin and flat and fiber.

Looking at a picture of the internal gaskets I can see where it might have come from, I do not want to replace the suction hose if I do not have to.

When the pressure got high is it possible to have blown a gasket loose inside the case, it was under a reed on the valve plate.

I guess I could break open the case to find out for sure, it is only worth $10.00 as a core.

Any ideas?

Jim
Old 07-28-2014, 09:50 AM
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Flush all the lines and see what comes out. Reverse flush the condenser, as something may come out as well.

I use an air powered flush gun and I use Methanol as the flush agent. No sparks and good ventilation are a must!

If you are replacing the compressor, condenser, evap, and expansion valve, then just flush the lines.
Old 07-28-2014, 01:24 PM
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All I can say is.. wow.
Old 07-29-2014, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Jimbo

When you built your liquid line did you leave off the muffler?
How did you connect the inlet to the drier, o-ring or flange?

Jim
Yes, I eliminated the muffler in the liquid line. Can't say I ever noticed any noise from it before. Nothing abnormal after the fact either.

As for the dryer connections, I kept the factory steel braided lines from the expansion block to the dryer and from the dryer to the condenser. The new dryer came with gaskets to replace which was nice.


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