XRF ball joints
02-11-2010, 01:18 PM
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XRF ball joints
XRF ball joints are the bomb! What a difference. Replaced both right and left upper and lower ball joints last week. The upper ones are sealed; the lowers are greasable-and the best thing is, they have a million mile warranty.
And all 4 joints were $250 plus shipping!
And all 4 joints were $250 plus shipping!
02-11-2010, 02:32 PM
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250 for all four? Man thats better then 2 grand like some places are trying to get!
Where did you buy them? I would like to hear about them in 20k miles or so to see how well they are holding up.
Where did you buy them? I would like to hear about them in 20k miles or so to see how well they are holding up.
02-11-2010, 04:59 PM
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Part #'s and supplier information?
XRF ball joints are the bomb! What a difference. Replaced both right and left upper and lower ball joints last week. The upper ones are sealed; the lowers are greasable-and the best thing is, they have a million mile warranty.
And all 4 joints were $250 plus shipping!
And all 4 joints were $250 plus shipping!
Thanks,
02-11-2010, 05:40 PM
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I maybe wrong here, but I don't see why having a lifted truck would matter. The wheels should still sit the same so the ball joints should be the same??? Shouldn't they?
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02-11-2010, 07:38 PM
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That should only make a differance in the caster/chamber??? I don't think it has anything to do with alignment? But like I said I could be wrong. I am by no means a auto mechanic!
02-11-2010, 07:41 PM
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Almost got some Moogs today from Carquest in Canada.... My friend at the autoparts store told me to look into the XRF line up. Sure glad I took the time to research the issue. I was asuming Moog was the best, from all the posts I will more than likely getting the XRF.
They also offer left and right outer tie rods. If there is any weakness in these parts I will soon find out. Have a 8.5 V blade hanging on the front and a 2yd salter on the rear.
Perhaps the lift kits change the steering geometry with the longer trailing arms.
They also offer left and right outer tie rods. If there is any weakness in these parts I will soon find out. Have a 8.5 V blade hanging on the front and a 2yd salter on the rear.
Perhaps the lift kits change the steering geometry with the longer trailing arms.
02-11-2010, 08:51 PM
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So here's the deal with XRF guys-
The only joints they offer are the straight-up 0 degree joints, because they found that most people using adjustable joints could never bring their truck back to factory alignment specs, especially with toe. This makes sense, because the first thing you set on an alignment is camber-and if it's zero degrees, then everything else should be easier to dial in (especially since caster on this truck is so easy to set).
The alignment specs on a lifted truck are the same as the specs on a factory truck-which is why a lot of reputable lift companies will tell you NOT to install a lift if it's impossible to bring your truck into factory alignment specs (proof positive of this is KORE's website-don't take my word for it)
All I did is call 877-674-4030, and the guy who answered the phone looked up to see whether they had a supplier in Cleveland. He also gave me the part numbers for the upper and lower ball joints. When he went through his system, he found out that we don't have a local supplier in Cleveland, so he just sent me the parts out of the main warehouse in Michigan. He was really helpful and we actually chatted about the weak points in the Dodge front end, and he told me what XRF had done to their ball joints to make sure they were fullproof (hence the million-mile warranty).
What's interesting is that Carli insists that the lower ball joint weak point in our truck is that it's "plastic." IIRC it's actually acetal resin, which is somewhat similar to delrin. Anyway, XRF uses acetal resin in the lower joint as well. I can't remember why the guy told me they decided to go with acetal versus steel, but there was a reason why they did it. In any event, the lower acetal resin ball joint is greasable, and the upper one (which is steel) is not.
I'm really happy with them. For the first time in 10K miles my truck tracks absolutely straight and with minimal steering correction while driving on a crowned road. Bumps are much less harsh, and there's no bounceback through the steering system after hitting a pot hole or large road bump.
I'll let you know if I end up with durability issues-I put between 20K and 30K miles a year, so if there are short-term durability issues, I'll probably find them in short order.
The only joints they offer are the straight-up 0 degree joints, because they found that most people using adjustable joints could never bring their truck back to factory alignment specs, especially with toe. This makes sense, because the first thing you set on an alignment is camber-and if it's zero degrees, then everything else should be easier to dial in (especially since caster on this truck is so easy to set).
The alignment specs on a lifted truck are the same as the specs on a factory truck-which is why a lot of reputable lift companies will tell you NOT to install a lift if it's impossible to bring your truck into factory alignment specs (proof positive of this is KORE's website-don't take my word for it)
All I did is call 877-674-4030, and the guy who answered the phone looked up to see whether they had a supplier in Cleveland. He also gave me the part numbers for the upper and lower ball joints. When he went through his system, he found out that we don't have a local supplier in Cleveland, so he just sent me the parts out of the main warehouse in Michigan. He was really helpful and we actually chatted about the weak points in the Dodge front end, and he told me what XRF had done to their ball joints to make sure they were fullproof (hence the million-mile warranty).
What's interesting is that Carli insists that the lower ball joint weak point in our truck is that it's "plastic." IIRC it's actually acetal resin, which is somewhat similar to delrin. Anyway, XRF uses acetal resin in the lower joint as well. I can't remember why the guy told me they decided to go with acetal versus steel, but there was a reason why they did it. In any event, the lower acetal resin ball joint is greasable, and the upper one (which is steel) is not.
I'm really happy with them. For the first time in 10K miles my truck tracks absolutely straight and with minimal steering correction while driving on a crowned road. Bumps are much less harsh, and there's no bounceback through the steering system after hitting a pot hole or large road bump.
I'll let you know if I end up with durability issues-I put between 20K and 30K miles a year, so if there are short-term durability issues, I'll probably find them in short order.
02-11-2010, 09:06 PM
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By the way, this is directly off the XRF website for their Zero-Lash ball joints regarding the acetel (i.e. what some other manufacturers call "plastic") bearing they use:
"XRF Zero-Lash ball joints have a ball stud that is fully encapsulated in a high strength acetel bearing offering superior load disbusement and longer life"
If you look up the uses of high strength acetel bearings now-a-days, you'd be shocked at what manufacturers are putting them in. High velocity pumps, transfer cases for vehicles up to 17500 lbs GVWR (don't laugh-it might be one you get in in your next truck!) to name a few.
I know Carli really goes after lower ball joint manufacture and how their steel joint totally improves steering feel. I think they go so far as to say that replacing the lower ball joint with theirs will give you the biggest bang for your buck in terms of steering feel and front end predictability. That might be true, but if it is, it comes at a steep price.
When you figure that XRF charges around $250 for all four, you can't beat it. And let me tell you-the difference in steering feel now versus the stockers is like night and day!
"XRF Zero-Lash ball joints have a ball stud that is fully encapsulated in a high strength acetel bearing offering superior load disbusement and longer life"
If you look up the uses of high strength acetel bearings now-a-days, you'd be shocked at what manufacturers are putting them in. High velocity pumps, transfer cases for vehicles up to 17500 lbs GVWR (don't laugh-it might be one you get in in your next truck!) to name a few.
I know Carli really goes after lower ball joint manufacture and how their steel joint totally improves steering feel. I think they go so far as to say that replacing the lower ball joint with theirs will give you the biggest bang for your buck in terms of steering feel and front end predictability. That might be true, but if it is, it comes at a steep price.
When you figure that XRF charges around $250 for all four, you can't beat it. And let me tell you-the difference in steering feel now versus the stockers is like night and day!
02-11-2010, 09:41 PM
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Glad to hear that there is a cheaper alternative! I hope these things holdup well! If so I will be buying a pair in the future... If not I guess I will be going the Dynatrack ball joint route.
02-12-2010, 12:56 AM
#14
"California Style"
Yes, Acetal or Delrin (Dupont Trade name) or POM is a very tough plastic that has good chemical resistance and is lubricious. It is used in all kinds of high load applications and machine tools. It is an engineering material not your walmart plastic.
02-12-2010, 06:12 AM
#15
This looks like a pretty good deal. Four (4) XRF Ball joints for $200
Can someone tell me if the picture is accurate?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...AQ:MOTORS:1123
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=180450925384
Can someone tell me if the picture is accurate?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...AQ:MOTORS:1123
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=180450925384