Issue is when using the truck's brake pedal it doesnt apply trailer brakes. But when use the brake controller, the brakes on the trailer work fine. This is on a 20ft flatdeck with 2 7000lbs axles. I removed all wheels to check brakes, brgs, etc. All looks great shape, adjusted all 4 brakes up. All lights all work, checked wiring to the juncton box in the a frame of the hitch. When hooked up the trailer, the light is green on the controller, when slide the button, it glows red, then can hear the brakes apply. Even jacked up the trailer, spun the wheels, when I use the brake controller, the wheels stop hard. Step on the brake pedal, only brake lights work, wheels keep spinning. I went & hooked up to my 25ft enclosed snowmobile trailer, step on brake pedal, the light on the brake controller goes from green to red, apply the brake controller by hand, goes from green to red. So Im assuming my truck is fine. Thinking there is something wrong with the 20ft flatdeck, just got this trailer couple weeks ago. Havent hauled anything yet, but likely going soon to bring home a 10,000lbs tractor. Also the breakaway system works, pull the cord, brakes lock up. Thanks for any help. Just over a month ago, rented a 18ft flat deck to haul home a tractor, truck/trailer worked fine. Decided to buy this used trailer instead of renting all the time.

 

Your post is very hard to read, but I read through it several times and what I think you're saying is happening, is that only on the flat deck the brakes don't work when you press the TV's pedal, but they do work if you use the manual lever. Is that correct?
If it is I suspect a ground issue. I would start at the connector on the trailer and work my way back.

 

It was alot to type, guess in my mind it made sense, haha. The used 20ft flat deck trailer I just got is the trailer with issues. Trailer brakes dont apply when using the truck's brake pedal, but all the brake lights come on. When using the brake controller, the trailer brakes work fine. So I thought might be an issue with my truck, so I hooked up to my other trailer (25ft snowmobile enclosed) with electric brakes. All works just likes its suppose to.

 

I would think you have a problem with the brake controller (or the brake lamp feed to it). They do have to be in motion and sense a rate of deceleration when you step on the brake pedal, in order to apply the trailer brakes proportionally. If it will apply the trailer brakes with the manual lever, the trailer must be ok. Have you tried adjusting the level and gain adjustments on the brake controller? These settings can change a lot from trailer to trailer, loaded to unloaded, and even hot to cold.

 

Good advice here. I agree with torquefan as the gain on each trailer set is different, especially if you are going from a single axle sled trailer to a dual axle deck. The systems are not the same and variables such as brake health, magnet strength, wiring all play a factor in getting full power out of the brake system.

 

I would also say either the controller isn't getting brake light signal reliably, or it is an issue with the controller. If it is an inertia type controller it may need higher initial current for multi axles.

 

that is the problem with junk controlers, just throw it in the trash there is only two good true proportional controllers on the market they are the smartbrake and the maxbrake.

 

I have turned gain to the max, as trying different things. Just being messing with both trailers this week. I cant stand things that dont work right. The 25 ft enclosed sled trailer is a 1996 yr, dual 3500 axles, I rewired it front to back. Replace 1 set of shoes, repacked brgs, adjusted brakes up tight. It seems to work fine. The 20ft equipment trailer is a 2006, dual 7000lbs axles. Pretty hd trailer, looked over the brakes, etc. Will for sure upgrade the brake controller, as it came from local parts store. So its likely not the greatest by any means. Going to look for either of the controllers that was listed, thanks for the help guys.

 

Sounds alot more like a trailer wiring issue. brake lights and brake are on separate pins, on a standard 7 pin (viewed from rear of vehicle) 5 oclock is brake power and 7 oclock is ground.

Maxbrake is my controller of choice

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

 

H S, before you throw money at a new controller, work the problem a little more. I think you're dealing with a wiring issue as well. Your brakes work as they should on all vehicles except this new trailer, the problem has to be there. After you check the plug, just for fun, add a temporary ground wire from the negative side of the trailer brake wire to the frame of the pull vehicle and see what happens. Also look at the wiring where it comes together in the tongue. I've pulled wires loose there, lost brakes but still had brake lights.

 

One more little tidbit, that might help you troubleshoot. If you use a battery to charge brakes as suggested above on a trailer that is sitting still, it is easy to test to see if voltage is getting to trailer brake. Set a compass (like you used to use in Boy Scouts) beside the wheel. If the electromagnet for the trailer brake gets voltage, the needle of he compass will swing towards (or away depending on polarity of magnet) the wheel. You then know for certain whether or not the brake in each wheel is getting voltage.

 

what brake controller are you useing?