I was wondering if anyone could tell me if they make a slider hitch for gooseneck trailers. I have a 4 horse GN trailer and as of right now I can't pull it with my 06 Diesel SB QC, because the bed is to short and the trailer is 84 inches wide and will get into the back of the cab. If anyone has any info on this I would greatly appreciate it.

 

I have a SWB Chevy that has been retrofitted with 1-ton axles that has a gooseneck hitch in the normal 4" ahead of axle centerline.

I can, and have, pulled all kinds of goosenecks with it, so long as the nose-compartment is only half the length of the neck.

With a full length nose compartment, especially on 8' or 8-1/2' wide trailers, the front corner of the trailer-nose will hit the back of the cab when turning.

If you must pull trailers with your truck, move the hitch-ball farther back from the cab, so that the trailer will clear.

You will trade off some stability.

 

If you have the B & W hitch you can get an offset ball for it. I think it sets the trailer back about 4" or so. If not then I don't know of a slider gooseneck. You could always convert your trailer to a fifth wheel hitch. Just replace the tube that sits on the ball with one that has a kingpin and get a slider fifth wheel hitch to go with it. May cost a little to do but it would work for you.

 

popup hitch also offers a couple that fits into the neck of your gooseneck trailer. It is an offset hitch coupler. I believe it moves the trailer hitch back by about 9 inches.

http://www.popuphitch.com/sb1coupler.htm

 

Not to offend anyone, but, think about this a second.

The pivot point will still be at the same location and the trailer will be no farther from the cab when in a turn.

To cure the problem, simply move the ball farther from the cab.

There is no storebought solution that I know of; you are gonna have to drag out the welder.

 

The extender moves out the swing circle of the trailer, it does not move the pivot point. Similar in concept of veering more anchor chain during an anchoring evolution - the ship moves further away from the anchor in a 360 degree arc.

The trailer will indeed be 9 inches farther out from the truck at the same point in a turn, including the corner of the trailer that is in jeapordy of hitting. It has to, the extender is a fixed piece of steel and doesn't telescope in during the turn.

A 9 inch extension may not provide full clearance on all trailers depending on configuration and geometry, but it will provide more angle before impact occurs.

If it helps, imagine a 40" extension moving the trailer outwards 40" during the turn; a 9 is the same - only less distance.

 

I agree with everything you said; but, this is only going to permit a small gain in the turning angle.

Real-life situation is, if the trailer is 8' wide, with full nose, the outside corner of the trailer is 4' from the ball.

In many maneuvers, you are gonna need the trailer at 90 degrees(or close to it) to the truck.

This nine inch extension is only going to move point of impact nine inches from the center of the cab.

It may be enough if the driver always keeps this in mind and avoids situations that he can't get out of.

In an ideal situation, the center of the hitch needs to be at least 52" from the cab of the truck(or head-rack, or whatever).

This will allow a little lee-way should one get in more than a right-angle to the trailer.

What I would do, were the truck mine, is to mount two ***** to the plate, one as close to 4" ahead of the axle as highway turning radiuses would permit, then another at least 52" from the rearmost part of the cab.

Then, should I need the extra turning room, I would re-hook the trailer to the rear ball.

Then again, a smart man like me would fabricate a plate with a track and sliding/locking ball mount to get out of having to re-hook.

Of course, the ideal thing to do would be to get a longer truck; then none of this matters.

 

I would agree the simpliest thing to do is get a longer truck, but......the truck is a brand new 06 Dodge Ram and I didn't even consider this since I pull the trailer now with a 03 extended cab Chevy SWB truck. My bed is like 6 inches shorter then the bed I pull the trailer with now. I appreciate all the suggestions.

 

I couldnt find any hitch that really tickled my fancy. Either they were 6" forward, and directly over the axle...Not to mention $$$ So Im building my own....Plan on putting the ball 3" infront of the axle, which just happens to be 43" from the back of the bed...Grab a measuring tape and take a look...Should work out well for me...Drawing of my hitch in my gallery

 

This might be along the lines of what you want:

http://www.mrtruck.net/popup.htm


Nick

 

I've noticed a continuing discussion over numerous threads on the proper pin placement on our trucks. These range from directly over the axle to 6 inches ahead of the rear axle. From the math below, you'll find that the amount of weight transferred to the front axle is negligible.

This is the Math on pin weight differences from mounting the ball over the axle vs mounting it 4 inches ahead.

Using a 2000 lb pin weight, with the ball over the rear axle, the rear axle will carry the entire load and zero on the front axle.

Moving the pin forward 4 inches on a 140 inch wheelbase truck (4/140 = 3%); using the same pin weight as above, you will lighten the rear axle by 60 pounds and place 60 lbs of additional weight on the front axle. 60 pounds of 9600+ pound truck is negligible (not counting the 40 or so that I'd like to lose...)

From a guy who has only towed a tag-along, what is wrong with putting the pin directly over the rear axle, which is probably the pivot point for a front wheel steered vehicle? There's no whip effect when mounted on the pivot point is there?

 

It's not just the weight distribution on the front or rear axle that is the reason for the ball placement. If the ball is behind the rear axle, a side force applied to the truck by the trailer will try to jack knife the rig using the rear truck tires as a pivot point to rotate the truck. If the ball is ahead of the rear axle, the vector force will push both the rear and (to a much lesser extent) the front of the truck in the same direction.

Rusty

 

Now you guys made me go out and look at my truck. Mine is just about right on top of the axle... a tad bit forward.

What would you all consider the "centerline" of the rear axle? There is sort ofa part on the housing that is trussed...

 

I"d call the "line" created by the rear axle shafts to be the centerline.

Next question: Where do OTR trucks try and put the pin? I've never looked real closely, but it seems that the pin is "usually" centered between the drive axles, but I've seen them a little forward of center too.

 

I get all of my measurements from the Dodge Bodybuilder site....

Centerline is roughly 40" from the tailgate/back of bed