Ok that puts you up around 19,500...

 

isn t it 5200 x 3= 15600?

Will the dmv let you choose a lighter gvr? like 15500? cause otherwise my total with the truck already registered at 11500 would go over the 26000 rule .....by a wopping 100 lbs....

still wondering about tires.....since I ll have to buy some before I even move it...........I mine as well get some good ones....Whats the highest rated 15 's, whats load F rated at?

 

Well you don't have the system quite straight. Look on your door jam and see the gross weight rating. Not the GCWR but the GVWR. That is the figure used, not the plates. If the trailer is set up for three light axles I doubt that it will go over the 26,001. If it does why not just go get the CDL? It's not a big deal, you just won't have air brakes on it. You do the written test and take a road test on your truck, then it can weigh anything.

If you really need to change the weight rating of the trailer, get the serial number, contact the company that built it and most will send you a serial plate with the lower rating. A lot of car haulers do that.

 

strange.....I looked in the door....gvwr is 11000......but the front axle is 4850 and the rear is 7500......thats 11350?

anyways.....at 11000 + 15600 for the trailer its over.....26600......but thats assuming the trailer gvwr is based soley on the 5200 lb axles. I guess Ill have to check with my dmv see if they will lower the gvwr of the trailer a tad or get a cdl......but I really don t want to stop at weight stations....

 

It's not as simple as just adding the too maximum gross values.... you have to go by what the vehicle ACTUALLY weighs.

Also, on my 2500, the rear axle is rated at 6084 and the front axle is rated at 5200. Together that's 11,284, but my truck's GVWR is only 8800.

 

Are you sure? If thats the case I will never be over....actual weight of the truck is about 8500.....and I will never have the trailer that heavy either....

But if thats the case....I wouldn t need a cdl to drive an empty (large tow truck) that normally requires a cdl...? because of what it can carry?

If a truck actually weighted 20000.......I could drive it? even if its gvrw was 40000? That doesn t make sence.

I m fairly sure that in NV they go by the GVRW of all vehicles double or triple . If its over 26000 you need a cdl.....even if your actually at 25999......

 

Well, you get into a whole different area when you start talking about commercial (for hire) vehicles like the tow truck etc., you are mentioning. You have to have a CDL if the vehicle has air brakes, etc. By all means, DO NOT TAKE MY WORD AS GOSPEL!! I live in Missouri, you live in Nevada.... call your local Highway Patrol HQ and ask them what you're required to do be legal. After all, they are most likely the ones that would be citing you for violations anyway.

 

You are getting some "wrong" info here so I will try and clear it up.

The DOT goes simply by this: They take the rated GVWR or the register GVWR which ever is higher. It really has nothing to do with actual weight (unless you are over weight).

So it doesn't mater if your trailer is empty, as long as the Rated GVWR of the truck and trailer together is over 26,000 you need a CDL, even though your actual weight is under.

Also you can register your trailer for less then the GVWR, but it doesn't mater because they still go by the GVWR because it is the higher of the too numbers. But you can't haul as much because you are licensed for less.

That brings up another questing, why register your truck for more then it is rated? If you get stoped they are still going to go buy the rated weight not the registed weight for checking you for over load. Unless you have no choice, like my trailer is rated for 24,000# but thier is no 24,000# trailer plate so I have to get a 26,000# plate for it.

So bottom line is with that tri axle trailer you are going to be over 26,000 GCVW (gross combined vehicle weight)


Now should we get into the fact that you are over your trucks GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating), which is am guessing is around 21,000#

 

That does clear up somethings....
I will probably not be over the 21000 in real life....or by much......maybe 1000lbs.

Since the weigh plate on the trailer can not be read (due to exposure) will the HWP then go by the registered weight?

I don t know why the dmv registered my truck to 11500? At the time it didn t seem like a bad idea....( I do know that with a rating over 8000 or 8500 there is no required smog though) The register gvwr was imput....there is no different in the plate at all (compared to a yugo) . IE. NV doesn t have "truck" plates.

Im gonna contact the manufacturer see if I can get a gvwr plate of 14500....so combined Id be right at 26000....

 

Actually they can ticket ya for that also the tag has to be their and read able. I am fighting with the maker of my trailer right now to get a new tag. When they made the trailer they just stuck the tag on with silicone and as you can imagine it has fallen off. Ben trying to get one for a year actually.

I will say that "most" states don't pay alot of attension to what the GCVWR of your truck is. They mainly look to see that you are not over your individual axle or tire ratings, and that you are not over each individual (truck or trailer) GVWR or over what you are licensed for. You will notice that Dodge doesn't even put the GCVWR on the door sticker, just the GVWR, so it they want to know what the GCVWR is they are going to have to dig for it.

I do run over my GCVWR that is 23,000#. When I am pulling my 40' trailer with 2 trucks on it the GCVW is about 31,000#. But I am not over any of my individual axle, tire, or GVWR.

GVW (Gross Vehilcle Weight)
Actually weight of you truck or trialer

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Raiting)
The max rated weight of your truck or trialer

GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight)
actuall weight of you truck and anything hooked to it

GCVWR (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Raiting)
The max rated GCVW you can have

 

I talked to vintage......not real good news....but I suspect everyone is doing it anyways.

They will not lower the rating by 200 lbs. So I will NOT be under the 26000 for a cdl....it will be rated to 26200.

The trailer also , like most I ve come to find out....weights about 9500 empty! That gives it 6000 lbs to hold..???? My 1500$ open flat trailer has hauled a dually before?
It seems that virtually all the trailers hauling two cars have to be over weight. The only weigh they are not is if its two roadsters or something....
One car and some decent equipment and it would be over.....

The trailer rating is 15200..........my truck is 11000........I ve been told by a couple people that have similar trailers not to worry, they have never had a problem.....but that won t do me much good if I do.

The funny part is that if my truck was rated lower then it would be fine? get a bigger truck to be safer and get screwed by red tape..........

 

You never have a problem untill you do, and you might never have one you just don't know.

I got my Class A CDL so I didn't have to worry about, had to have a Class B for work so I just got my A so I was covered for my truck also.

Most of the tri axle car haulers you see out their are rated for 21,000# so they can get 2-3 cars on their and still keep under the weight.

Wonder why they only put 5,000# axles under that trailer, some one trying to save a buck I guess. You might ask them if you put 7,000# axles under it if they would rate it for 21,000 then.

Like you said their are many people out their running illegal with trailers that get away with it. But when something happens it can get really expensive. My advise to you would be to get your Class A CDL, if you don't take they air brake part of it the rest is just proving that you can drag that trailer around with out running anything over. And their are some good things you will learn reading the book and taking the test.

If you can get the trailer cheap enough to stick some money in it and get what you want it could be a good deal. But personaly unless I were going to get some real axles in it I would pass.

 

MM, I think you have a little mud in your ears. Think about what you said? And try and get one good reason why a large company would put themselves at risk (liability,credibility,ethically) to grant someone a new tag certifying a trailer that had a questionable past, sat for years in some field, and was obviously under-built???????????
There is no GOOD reason, would you......I didn't think so. Nor would any logical person.

Trailers are like any other vehicle...the axles are only a part of the whole. Putting a set of higher rated axles does nothing for it ability to safely carry the weight. It would be like you putting 1 ton springs on a 1/2 ton pickup, and asking Dodge to rate it as a 1 ton... They would rightly laugh in your face, then call security. You always seem to have intelligent post, but I think you had a brain fart today.
This trailer makes no sense, know one would build something as useless and cheap as this one sounds. It may be for sale, and it may be priced low, but it is no bargan. If you truly have race cars, that are anything above figure 8 demo cars, why would you want to take a chance with them in this piece of junk? Reminds me of the horror stories I have heard about the people that built a $50,000 car and towed it on a $500 trailer and totaled it the first time out. I think I would be a little more particular about what I transported my "Race Car" in.

 

Y Knot, you must be the one with the MUD....they will send a new tag for the 15200 NO PROBLEM, not even charge for it...(not even look at a picture).....but they will not LOWER the rating 200 lbs......which would only make the trailer carry LESS weight and therefor be safer......

The funny part is that I could tow with a single wheel 2500 no problem, meet all reg etc......just not with a drw 3500 because technically it would be 200 lbs to high......to not have a cdl....

lets see, take to the road with a lesser truck for towing.....with no cdl or with the exact same trailer be required to have a cdl because your useing a truck that is better suited for the job?

 

Well if you will read what I wrote I said you could ask them, not that they would. And it don't cost you anything to ask. You never know, they might use the exact same trailer frame for their 15,000 or 21,000 trailer. They guys was just too cheap to buy the 21,000# axles. Or the whole thing could be a light weight built piece of junk.

Like I said as it sits I wouldn't buy it, to light weight. But by doing some checking with the original builder may be it can be upgraded. Like you said, springs would have to be changed also, and check the hitch rating, should be stamped right on the hitch.