I've been looking at getting a trailer for my upcoming move across the country and I think I've finally found the solution, but I'd like some opinions from you most knowledgeable of haulers.

I'm looking at a Featherlite 3 horse slant load gooseneck with a 4 foot dressing/tack room in the front. I can move things around as I need to in order to make the back one large open space for my stuff and then put it all back for when I eventually get some horses.

I was thinking of upgrading the 2 axles from 7K to either 8K or 10K axles so I could move all my stuff (about 12000#) even though it would be overkill for horses alone. And maybe I'd install some flush mounted tie downs in the floor for moving motorcycles too. I figure with this setup, I could do just about anything with the trailer. Maybe even dress up that tack room with my woodworking skills to make it livable for weekend trips and the like.

Sorry for the long post, but since I don't have the money for 3 different trailers, I figured I'd try to make one versatile enough for all jobs. Thanks for your input.

 

PS. Any suggestions for truck setup or questions I should be asking of the trailer people would also be greatly appreciated.

 

Are you looking to get a steel trailer or an alluminum?<br>One thing to consider if going alluminum is the heavier the axles the rougher the trailer will tend to ride, especially empty. The bouncing and jarring can cause the alluminum especially around the welds to crack. They tell me the newer style torsion axles also make it worse.<br>If you are loaded heavy all the time, no problem.

 

I would leave the axle's alone. If you go any heavier the ride will be unbearable with that short little trailer. My 6 and 8 horse trailer both have 7,000 lb torsion axles and I overload them all the time. My 6 horse living quarters grosses out at about 19,500 and the 2-7000 lb axles have never failed me yet.

 

[quote author=shortfieldbreak link=board=11;threadid=6383;start=0#58905 date=1035921268]<br>PS. Any suggestions for truck setup or questions I should be asking of the trailer people would also be greatly appreciated.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Now see if you can get a couple of horses' tails to hang on the back and go to hauling freight ;D

 

Going for a featherlite all aluminum. I was thinking of putting the heavier axles on it because it's a 5000# trailer that I want to put 12,000# of stuff in, so with a couple 8,000# axles I'm still overloading, but I didn't want to overload too much. Maybe I should get 7,000# axles?

 

[quote author=shortfieldbreak link=board=11;threadid=6383;start=0#58904 date=1035921213]<br>I've been looking at getting a trailer for my upcoming move across the country [/quote]<br><br>I don't completly know your situation but, I would rent a trailer for the move. Buy your new trailer at your new destination. less wear and tear on it all around. If your getting some kind of deal right now on that trailer I would take my heavy stuff like tools and engine blocks ect..and crate it and send it to yourself common carrier. Ship it NMFC 079465 class 70, furniture parts. Its very reasonable

 

Well, Wade, the plan is to buy the trailer here before the move because I can get about $4,000 off, and the Navy will pay me for moving my own stuff, probably about $5-6,000 so it'll cost that much less. I've been wanting a trailer anyway, so this seems to be a good way to save a bit of the cost in the process.

It's all household goods, and it's going to get there whether the Navy moves it or pays me to move it. I suppose it's just a matter of how it gets there and how much money I can make on it in the meantime.

At least it seemed like a good idea at the time. :

 

shortfield, your dity move plan makes sense to me. I only did it once and paid for my trailer too.<br><br>BTW, JAX and Bremerton were my two favorite duty stations.<br><br>Good luck on your move,<br><br>Chris

 

I knew there was more to it ;D Good luck on your move. When do you leave, snow is coming.

 

I originally thought I was going to be moving at the end of snow season up there, but due to some unforseen delays I think that thread I started earlier about towing in snow is irrelevant. I guess now I don't need that PB&amp;J and helmet to wait out the snow storm in a ditch. It'll probably be closer to June now I think. I'm looking forward to it.

I'm just getting as much research done now as I can so there's that much less to worry about when I move.

 

My opinion: Featherlite makes a good trailer, but there are better trailers. The older Featherlite trailers are much better. When the owner of Featherlite sold the business, the quality suffered. We had a '92 Featherlite and compared it to the new Featherlites...not even close to the same quality. Since he sold the business, he has started Exiss. You can see the old Featherlite quality in these trailers. Other very well built aluminum trailers are Barrett, Hart, Sooner, Sundowner. Barrett is an awesome trailer for the money, the floor structure alone is one of the best.<br><br>If you don't need a horse trailer, then get a car hauler. Can get upgraded axles, they are built pretty well and much less expensive than horse trailers.

 

I'd be really carefull with those Barretts depending on what climate you are going to be in. I believe they use a steel frame construction with alluminum attached to it.<br>Steel and alluminum just don't get along! Especially in cold weather climates and where there is alot of damp weather. Road Salt is the big killer.<br><br>Electrolysis can occur and seriously dammage the trailer.<br><br><br>Just a thought.<br><br>Personally, I love a Eby alluminum trailer.

 

I have pulled many horse trailers and the new feather lites are not as good Al quality. My friend is picking up a 4Star (very good quality) all Al (only a GMC 1500HD to pull with) and I use a Trail-et steel frame with Al skin with the CTD so it is best of both worlds. Very strong (steel bends in crashes) much better than Al (Al rips in crashes). The mixed type provides the best of both worlds.<br><br>I have seen 3 horses get scared and run backward and break open the feather lite rear doors and bend the s*** out of them. One was moving the horse had to be put down. Get steel cam latches and rods on the back like semis have. I like the wood floors because the absorb road bumps and heat better. Get good rubber matting on the floor and walls.

 

Srigs,<br><br>like the Barett, I'd be woried about electrolysis don't you think?<br><br>It's probably find if you live in a really dry climate. Wouldn't work around here, that's for sure.<br><br>Some good things about wood floors. A. cheaper! B. quieter, some horses get really scared when they hear their own feet banging on an alluminum floor (wood is bad enough)<br>Also, alluminum is super slippery if you don't have mats and your horses have shoes!!!!<br><br>Very light, lasts forever and is easier to clean though!