Flipping axles on a fiver
 

I just got a new (to me) 5th wheel camper. My hitch is adjust as low as possible and the trailer still doesn't sit level. I remember reading before about people mounting the springs on top of the axles instead of below them. Is there a special kit for this or do new axels need to be purchased? Is this something that I can do myself or is it better left to the professionals? I did a search but couldn't find the answers I was looking for.
The camper is a 24' Coachmen Coventry
Thanks
Will

Dexter makes a conversion kit that bolts on spring perches on the top of the axle. I'm sure the kit is safe and secure, but personally I thought I would feel better having regular perches welded on.

I purchased some new spring perches from the local auto parts store, then put the trailer up on blocking and removed the axles myself. The perches are cheap enough that it isn't worth your time to fabricate.

I took them to a professional welder, as I didn't have access to the equipment.

Total cost was around $100 counting a pile of weathered 4x12 lumber that I purchased and cut into 2' lengths for super secure blocking...

Your title says "flip" the axles. If you flip them upside down to use the existing spring perches, now pointing up instead of down, then the axle bend will be wrong (not the axle drop but the tweak in the middle) and the brakes will be running backward. The brakes could be moved back to the original side but the axle bend would still be upside down. It's probably no big deal but it may make the wheels look like they are squatting.

So, you could do it but it may not be worth it.

Wetspirit

I should have been more clear but I didn't mean to actually flip the axle, I think there is camber built into them. I meant to mount the springs above instead of below the axles.

Jeff- Are there "generic" spring perches or did the auto parts store have them specific for your trailer?

Thanks for the replies
Will

There are a couple of different perches. I think axle tube diameter is all you need to know. I think they're either 2 3/8" or 3".

There can be different width springs for the same diameter axles (got the wrong ones the first time).

Your axles should have a metal tag on them that identifies the brand and model. Mine are 5200 pound AL-KO's, for example.

Here's a place that sells perches on line.

http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant...tegory_Code=SS

and here's a link to Dexter's over/under relocation kit...

http://dexteraxle.com/over_under_conversion_kits

Its not hard at all i got the dexter kit. it bolts in but i welded them for safty. no problems at all.

You can also just take the perches off with a grinder and an air chisel - just do not grind into the tube. If you do just weld up this area and grind flush. Weld them on the opposite side and you are ready to go. I did both axles on mine in less than 3.0 hours including extending the brake harnesses. This sure beat driving to town to get new perches, plus it looks cleaner with just one per side. Paint the axles while out and it will look factory.

Yeah, removing the original perches is an option, and it would have a cleaner, more factory look.

For me, though, I left my stock perches on so I could use them to get the new perches lined up, and also if I didn't like how the trailer handled with the axles relocated (or if I sold it to someone with a 2wd truck) I could easily put it back.

Whichever way you prefer...

I'm pretty happy with my results. The trailer handles fine, and rides level with plenty of breathing room above the bedrails. It is a bit higher than it needs to be, though, so the first step is a doozy and the rear ramp is pretty steep (toyhauler). Also I don't care for the "obviously not stock" look, but it looks better than a smashed bedrail...

Thanks for all the replies. I have decided to have new perches welded on. Since I don't trust my welding skills for this I'll just take the axels to the local welding shop and have them do it.
Will

Though I didn't have any problems, if your axle has a brake wire routed through the tube I wonder if it would be a good precaution to pull it out prior to welding to prevent the possibility of burning up the insulation...

If you do pull it out, be sure to attach another wire or string so you have an easy way to drag the brake wire back through when the axle has cooled.

Good thought about the brake wire, I didn't think of that. This is going to be a late winter early spring project as I have to get my garage finished first.
Will